JVM2070B General Electric Microwave - Instructions

first i remove the screw, then removed the lens assembly (really a frame) bent the feet out of the way, slid the old lens out and the new one in, bent the feet back in place and inserted the assembly into place replaced screw. the killer is a day later it was broken again, think the lens can't handle the heat from the oven below or the lights above. you guys where great fast and exact match part but the ge design is flawed

I removed the choke ring { inside gasket } from the door with a putty knife, exposing the two screws holding the handle to the door, removed the screws and replaced the handle. The choke ring pops back in.

After researching on line and watching installation videos, ordered all three switches and installed. Disassembly of microwave was simple, removing the bracket holding the switches was a little tricky, it sits behind a metal post and you have to angle and wiggle it out. One note of caution when replacing all three switches, be sure to install correct switch in correct location. Had two of one style switch and one of a second style, and put one in wrong place, causing microwave to power up again when door was opened. After thinking it through and doing a second disassembly, and double checking installation instructions, corrected problem and microwave now works fine.

Unplugged the stirrer motor and the noise stopped. Therefore, replaced the stirrer motor.

One small Phillips screwdriver and one fuse puller (I used cord). Unplug unit. Remove the two screws on the vent face plate. Remove the one screw on the panel assembly. Gently let hang. Pull the fuse located on the upper left wall. Replace fuse. Reassemble.

threw the old ones away and set the new one in

opened the door and put in the tray!

Followed instructions described by others at this site. Pried up retaining fascia on the door to find access to two philips-head screws. Removed old broken handle and replaced with new. Snapped fascia back in place and that was it.

the online instructions were ideal - just unscrewed the right-hand screw (the only screw) and replaced the bulb by inserting gently but firmly)...getting the old bulb out was a pain, b/c it shattered in my grasp (with little bits of glass all over the stove!), but that has nothing to do with the purchase and installation from this site - all a very good experience

First, potatoe burned up in microwave. Microwave
was dead. Took off cover and found maintaince repair pamphlet in envelope. Schematic showed one shot thermostat for fire. Ordered thermostat from you and installed it. Works fine.

What an informative website! Being a woman (ha, ha!!), I would never have attempted a microwave repair on my own if I hadn't read about all of the other successful, easy repairs. First, I shut the circuit breaker to my microwave. Then I removed the 5 screws holding in the bottom panel, unplugged the motor and removed the one screw holding the motor in place. I attached the new motor, plugged it back in and put all screws back. The hardest part of my whole repair was removing the bottom panel because it was so tightly wedged between my recently refaced cabinets. Other than that, the repair was a "piece of cake". The part came a few days after I ordered, which was also a big plus.

This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.

Removed one screw, removed cover, and replaced lamp. Pretty straightforward.

Most of the effort is simply getting the oven out of the built in enclosure and the sheet metal off. This take about 15 minutes then you have to remove the two screws (not handy location) that hold the door latch/switch assembly so you can remove the switch. I did this BEFORE ordering so I could test the switch (it was charred) and verify the part needed. WATCH OUT - some ovens use a normally open an some a normally closed version of this switch - you have to get the right one. I checked several suppliers that were showing the WRONG switch for my model. PartSelect had it right. Once I received the switch I had it on and the oven installed and running in less than 30 miutes. Working fine since then...

I replaced the switch at the bottom per instruction. I had both switches. I think it was the monitor door switch.It works fine now. Thank you Part Select .