JES1288S General Electric Microwave - Instructions

First remove tamper proof screws with vise - grips. Unplug capacitor ground out one side to discharge. Trouble shooting guide in a envelope in microwave, read it and did what it said. If 20 amp fuse is blown ( which it was ) replace primary and secondary switch and monitor switch. Switch assemble removes as a unit. Wires where hard to remove, you have to push on a release located on one side and pull to remove. Works great , only one switch was bad, but I did what the guide said. Draw a picture of wiring with color code so you do not mix up.

Understand the type of fasteners GE used in the appliance require a BRISTOL type screwdrive.....unfortunatley this tool is not a part of my tool chest.....after running my four letter vocabulary and the use of thin blade screwdrive a a small vise grip plier was able to get the little bugers out.....thank goodness there was only four.

on the kitchen counter. Removed parts and replaced exactly as the came off. insuring all fits were tight and secure.

It took two people because we have built-in unit. The power plug was in cabinet above.First had to remove front frame in cabinet with Phillips screwdriver. Removed microwave from cabinet box (be sure to wear gloves, edges are very sharp). Then unscrew outer shell of microwave - easy process. Easy task to remove bulb/socket piece. We ordered part from Part Select - friendly service and the price is the best. Even with minimal shipping costs, the local prices were more than double. Important, it is a bulb and socket part.

After opening the case (the most difficult part of the job), tested the fuse (good) next in line on the power lead was the "flame sensor". With my ohmmeter it read open. The schematic noted that it opens at 212 degrees and closes at 32. Put it in the freezer for 15-20 minutes while I ordered a replacement. Upon rechecking, it had reset. Reinstalled it and everything works fine. I did receive the new one and it's on the shelf, just in case.

Our microwave oven stopped working one day when the door was closed. The clock stopped showing, the light didn't come on when the door was opened, and the microwave couldn't be started. It acted as if it lost power. So, we did the usual things such as check the plug and the circuit; these were fine. I then removed the cover (need special bits called "Security Bits" which you can buy from Home Depot for $8.00). After removing the cover, be sure to discharge the capacitor (do a Google search to learn how to do this; fortunately, this microwave has a resistive circuit to ground to discharge the capacitor after about 30 minutes of being unplugged). After I discharged the capacitor, I checked the fuse and it was blown. So, I went to the store to buy a new fuse. When I replaced the fuse, and plugged the unit back into an outlet, the circuit blew as soon as I opened the door. This made me realize the faulty components were the "interlock" switches. These are relays (an electric switch) that cause the microwave to shut off when the door is opened and the inside lamp to illuminate when the door is opened. There are two "primary" switches and a "monitor" switch. I checked both primary switches for continuity (do a google switch for "checking interlock switch"). The one interlock switch was bad, meaning, it wasn't opening when it was suppose to. I ordered a replacement and also replaced the Monitor switch too (not sure why, I guess because it was only $6 to buy). After replacing the bad primary interlock switch, I put it all back together and we're working now!