JES831WF001 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Removed cover. Found oven flame thermal cutout and measured across the terminals with an ohmmeter. Found no continuity. Thermal cutout wasn't allowing a complete path for input line. Ordered the oven cutout and 2 days later I installed the new part, re-assembled the oven cover and Voila! Fixed. Simple repair saved my friend from having to purchase a new microwave.

Watched How to repair a Microwave that turns on when the door is opened Video on the web. From this took a shot at the switch was the problem. When I removed the switch it was defective. The small button was in and when you turned the switch upside down the button would drop back into position. Ordered a switch for $25.oo , installed it and the microwave is working fine.

Took the screws out that held the oven case on. Looked around and found a connection on the oven cavity thermal cut out the plastic melted and black looking. I knew this was the problem but I checked the fuse anyway and the fuse was good, so I ordered the part from part select and they shipped it out fast and now my microwave is working again.

I had a bad cut off sensor on oven cavity I ran the Microwave with nothing in it and it smoked I ran it for another 6 months then 1 day I was heating water and it stop- working. I put a new tube in might be Okay but I was not going to risk it taking another cut off sensor on overload. You have to change sensor and put on a new tube. Clearly it would be cheaper to buy a new unit but it was only 2 years old and I am an old tech and was curious. The sensor cost only 16 bucks new tube about 55 a replace brand new oven 81 bucks there you have it I was stubborn and going to get that sucker back into operation I had another oven go out the same way

Remove the microwave cover. Requires a phillips screwdriver and a torx security bit/nut driver (there are two security type screws on the back...guess they don't want you to do this at home!). I had to buy the a security bit set (about $7). The diode is easily accessible on the right side under the fan. Requires removing on small phillips screw and unplugging on electrical connection. GE provides some instructions in an envelope on top (after cover removed). There is a warning/instruction to discharge the capacitor before service. This was not a problem for me. Actual diode replacement took 30 seconds. Whole job = 15 minutes.

20 month old GE m/w had made "electrical" smells from beginning. Finally unit failed to turn on. Disassembly was easy except that I needed to buy anti-tamper screw driver bits from Sears to remove two screws. Found the blade connector to the sensor was a loose fit, resulting in severe heating at the connection. Plastic connector was melted and sensor was damaged to the extent this seems a possible fire hazard. Replacing the sensor is trivial, and requires removing one Phillips head screw. Reterminating the defective connector requires basic electrical skills; wire stripping and crimping. Be sure to clip a few millimeters of wire to get undamaged copper. Be sure to replace both connectors if connections feel at all loose. M/w reassembly is trivial.

I took instant pictures at each step to make sure I put the wires back correctly. Removed the front panel. Discharged the capacitor with a voltage meter. Removed parts in front of the magnetron. Removed and replaced the magnetron. Reassembled. Works find now. Small hands, a flashlight and a magnet (for dropped screws) would help. I did not need the pictures.

Turn off main power bracker. Removed fan vent, removed control panel, disconnect leads to the three monitor switches. Replaced the secondary switch (top). Reversed procedures.