M1020E (P1319603M) Amana Microwave - Instructions

My Maytag Microwave UMC5100AD was suddenly broken in 1 second when I heated food last time. Then no clock, etc, seem the fuse broken. to fix it, the most difficult part was how to remove it from the wall trim. Finally got it out. Then went HomeDepot to get the same fuse, replaced and used it, burned again. Then I searched online and ppl said the capacitor might be the one. I took it out and measured it, yeah it indeed was a problem since it's not open. Then I order the capacitor from PartSelect about $32. After 3 days I got it and installed it. Done. Sure need to put the Microwave back to wall trim. That's it. Saved about $500 buck if I buy a new one plus labor to install it. Thanks

Replace the capacitor and the fuse. Then it works again. Part arrived in an open plastic bag with scratch. It looked like a returned part, but it works fine.

I replaced the large capacitor (.95 uf). Much of the shell (casing) has to be removed and the capacitor is hard to get to. It is housed in a very inconvenient place. Because of the unfamiliarity of how to access the capacitor it took about an hour to get to it. After receiving the new capacitor it only took about half an hour to install it, re-assemble the microwave, and re-install under the cabinet. Of course a new fuse was required.

took out plastic piece under plate (that was broken) and placed new one in the hole. No tools req'd. Works like new.

Ice covered the top back of the freezer compartment. This did not allow the cold air to move up to the fridge. Complete defrosting (36hrs) fixed the problem. There was a lot of water, from ice inside, that was not visible. We realized the freezer drawer must have been left cracked open. Thanks so much.

hardest part was taking the microwave down off of the wall to gain access to the diode. Thought if was the transformer but ended up being just a blown diode. remove and replace and bench test. that part took 15 minutes . moral of the story don't boil water under the side of the microwave that holds the electric components.

We got a a carbon steel but and drilled out the stews and put in regular screws. We also had trouble getting the cover back on and ended putting 2 more screws on the left side which had none. The installation was the easiest part of the installation.

The built-in microwave was removed by taking off the front plate that was secured by 3 screws at the bottom. The unit was moved to the side slightly so that the power cord could be disconnected. Then the entire unit was withdrawn. The outer shell of the unit was taken off by removing the six screws holding it in place. The shell may need to be shifted slightly to separate it from the unit. Once removed, the bracket latch and opening mechanism for the door was revealed. The latch is inserted simply by aligning the two nipples with the correponding holes in the opening mechanism and gently pushing it into place. The latch is plastic and appears to be vulnerable to breakage over time through constant use, so I have ordered a spare should the problem reoccur.

All the electrics worked on Amana microwave EXCEPT for the cooking function. Inspected the control board and found the upper switch on the door interlock was burnt. Installed new switch in minutes and everything now works fine. Unfortunately, had to purchase expensive two switch "kit" although only one switch was kaput. PartsSelect mailing was SUPER fast. Thanks for looking, Scott

Removed cover and installed light

"PIECE OF CAKE" Removed cover,removrd bulb, replaced bulb, replaced cover. "PIECE OF CAKE" P.S. Wife is happy.

remove 4 screws from top, front louvered panel snaps out. remove 1 screw from top of keypad, keypad pivot's forward and can be removed. There is a white mounting bracket inside left. Remove two screws, one top and one bottom, bracket lifts up and out. 3 sets wires are attached, mark them with masking tape, top, center, bottom and pull out plugs. They can only attach one way. Using a very small screw tip, lift plastic latch from switch, it rotates out and is removed from the pivot pin. reassemble in reverse order after switches are replaced

you will a security socket T20. this unit was installed over oven, remove trim cover,remove screws holding unit in place,I used a helper to get the unit out, once out you have to remove all the screws holding the cover on,on two of the corners they use a security hex screw so you need a special socket for that. remove the door latch switch,take your time or you will break tab holding switch in. ask me how I know.but super glued broke piece in place and plugged wire back in.the new latch may have a second pin but look at old one and plug wires in the same way.the light bulb does not screw out so I had to purchase the entire unit.total cost under a $100.00 to do repair.

The door was not engaging the micro switches properly no doubt from 10+ years of wear. The upper switch removed fairly easily but take care not to tweak the plastic brace too much or it will snap. The lower one was the tricky one. After much examination I noticed that the trick to remove it was underneath the brace. Take a butter knife (no joke) and insert it just under the old micro switch and gently press down twisting the micro switch every so slightly til it releases. The replacements snap back in with no trouble. The microwave is working much better now, though not perfect.

Since others reported similar problems and it was just the fuse we tried that first. That wasn't the problem so we ordered the Door Interlock Switch Kit. Shipping was very fast! Our microwave had 3 switches. My husband asked how to know which one to switch. I read that one person just did process of elimination. Luckily ours worked on the first change out! So happy to have stumbled across this site and not have to buy a whole new microwave.