F1340E-P1319607M Amana Microwave - Instructions

Initially we started looking to buy a replacement microwave to replace our 13+ year old built-in microwave. It was a real pain finding a replacement to fit the exact dimensions. So I thought I'd try to find an old KitchenAid microwave. However, I was pleasantly surprised when this site came up on my search. Their website allows me to input the problems and then it showed two possible parts that needed to be replaced. I emailed tech support and asked them which part I needed. They responded very quickly and said I needed to replace the magnetron. I watched a couple YouTube videos and then pulled my microwave apart. It was incredibly easy to pull the outer cover off. The magnetron had 5 screws that needed to be removed and one electrical plug. Took me maybe 10 min to complete the entire repair. It was one of the easiest repairs I've done and so thankful for this site They saved me a ton of money from not buying a new microwave and we now have our microwave working again. In hindsight, I wouldn't hesitate. I'd order the Part now and get it fixed.

removed a dozen screws-discarded large cap-replaced diode-replaced a dozen screws(took longer to replace them than remove for some unknown reason). Microwave now works(wife happy).

Took microwave out of builtin cabinet with 4 screws.
Put microwave on center island and removed cover.
Tested interlock switch with volt meter and it appeared ok so I put my kit back in box and sent back.
Took out magnetron unit and replace with new part.
Put cover back on and test.
All is working and installed back in cabinet. Two weeks later all still working great.

I had to unmount the over-the-range microwave oven to be able to gain access to the interior of the oven. Complicating removal (and re-installation) was the fact that there is a "pot-filler" faucet installed directly underneath the oven. In retrospect, I should've removed the faucet before doing the repair, but "c'est la vie."

After I got the microwave down, removing the case was also "interesting." I get bonus points for the fact that the previous owner must've had to replace the same diode before - and then re-assembled the microwave case incorrectly - thereby adding to the confusion (BTW, the service manual that I found online said nothing about how to remove the oven's case).

To remove the case, undo all the screws holding it on, and then rotate the case upwards from the back while also pulling the case backwards. There are crimped folds on the inside of the case that mate with the back edges of the front of the oven's chassis, and these folds have to be unclipped from the chassis in order to remove the case.

Replacing the diode itself was the easiest part of the job. The two connectors on the diode are of different types, making it impossible to install the diode with the wrong polarity.

BTW, the diode that had failed was not an OEM diode; I suspect it was a generic component that had been installed by a repairman sometime between 2004-2008 (when our home's original owners still owned the home). On the other hand, the new diode from PartSelect is an OEM part (it came packaged in a sealed Whirlpool bag).

The fact that the oven had stopped heating indicated that it was either the high-voltage diode or the magnetron that had failed. Since a replacement diode costs ~ 1/10th as much as a replacement magnetron, I figured it made sense to replace the cheaper part first. Fortunately, this fixed the problem.

One last thing: I tried testing both the old and new diodes for conductivity and polarity using my volt-ohm meter (VOM), but I was unable to get either diode to "turn on," even though my VOM is powered by a 9-v battery, and I used the 2-Mohm range setting. I guess the test voltage of my el-cheapo VOM isn't high enough to exceed the diode's threshold voltage, (even though I have successfully used this same VOM to test low-voltage diodes).

Access is via RT. SIDE Panel as you face microwave. There are three screws on the bottom right edge to loosen. After that the side panel slips down and off. the fuse is located in the rear near where the power cord comes in. It is the white ceramic tube 1/4" in dia. and 1-1/2" long. Pull it out like any fuse and replace with new one. Reassemble and you are done!

Using fingers, the old turntable roller guide was pulled up off the motor shaft. The plastic roller guide shaft coupler was found to be broken, allowing the motor shaft to spin without turning the roller guide. The hole in the floor of the oven was inspected, and no broken pieces were found which could interfere with the new roller guide. The new roller guide was then gently pressed down over the motor shaft. Very easy.

It seems that the heat of the microwave cracks the part over time. It is a very simple installation.

Watched a you tube video prior to installing new switch. Followed the video which gave me confidence i was up to the task. After removing the touch pad I found my design was not exactly like the you tube model but I found the defective switch, replaced it and put the microwave back together. Works great. Again watch the videos

took out plastic piece under plate (that was broken) and placed new one in the hole. No tools req'd. Works like new.

Ice covered the top back of the freezer compartment. This did not allow the cold air to move up to the fridge. Complete defrosting (36hrs) fixed the problem. There was a lot of water, from ice inside, that was not visible. We realized the freezer drawer must have been left cracked open. Thanks so much.

The built-in microwave was removed by taking off the front plate that was secured by 3 screws at the bottom. The unit was moved to the side slightly so that the power cord could be disconnected. Then the entire unit was withdrawn. The outer shell of the unit was taken off by removing the six screws holding it in place. The shell may need to be shifted slightly to separate it from the unit. Once removed, the bracket latch and opening mechanism for the door was revealed. The latch is inserted simply by aligning the two nipples with the correponding holes in the opening mechanism and gently pushing it into place. The latch is plastic and appears to be vulnerable to breakage over time through constant use, so I have ordered a spare should the problem reoccur.

I called to make sure I was replacing the correct part. I paid over the phone and it came the next day. Very very easy process.

All the electrics worked on Amana microwave EXCEPT for the cooking function. Inspected the control board and found the upper switch on the door interlock was burnt. Installed new switch in minutes and everything now works fine. Unfortunately, had to purchase expensive two switch "kit" although only one switch was kaput. PartsSelect mailing was SUPER fast. Thanks for looking, Scott

The door was not engaging the micro switches properly no doubt from 10+ years of wear. The upper switch removed fairly easily but take care not to tweak the plastic brace too much or it will snap. The lower one was the tricky one. After much examination I noticed that the trick to remove it was underneath the brace. Take a butter knife (no joke) and insert it just under the old micro switch and gently press down twisting the micro switch every so slightly til it releases. The replacements snap back in with no trouble. The microwave is working much better now, though not perfect.

Since others reported similar problems and it was just the fuse we tried that first. That wasn't the problem so we ordered the Door Interlock Switch Kit. Shipping was very fast! Our microwave had 3 switches. My husband asked how to know which one to switch. I read that one person just did process of elimination. Luckily ours worked on the first change out! So happy to have stumbled across this site and not have to buy a whole new microwave.