GMC275PDQ1 Whirlpool Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

The only difficult part of this repair was figuring out how to get the oven door off. Most instructions advise you to flip the hinge locking clips, then lift off the door. But this oven does not have hinge locking clips. What it has is holes in the hinges, just behind the hinge pins. To get the door off, you need to open the door and insert some 3/16' pins in those holes, then close the door and lift it off. I almost got this right the first time, but I used 1/8" pins, and they didn't work, too small. It took me a long time to figure out to use bigger pins. Once the door is off, it's just a few Philips screws to work your way down to the glass. There are 4 layers of glass in this door.

I read all the repairs. Turned off power to oven. Was ready to clamp clips so the don't fall behind oven and Crap!! One clip popped off so easy, it went behind insulation. Had to pull oven out. Put wire through, connected everything. Turned power on and oven and broiler work great.

I did some research on blogs and identified the thermal fuse as likely culprit. Ordered part from PartSelect.com, but had to call the 800 number because the parts diagram doesn't show this fuse, just the thermostat. The fuse is located on the back of the oven, so it must be removed from the cabinet, but that wasn't a huge project. There are a bunch of sheet metal screws holding the top and back covers that must be removed. The fuse is held on by two screws and has two wire connections. Getting the stove out and disassembling is the hard part, but not really difficult if you take your time. I used a foot stool that was about the same height as the bottom of the oven and just slid the oven out on a piece of cardboard. Make sure you turn the power off before starting.

I am not a big do-it-yourselfer, so maybe I might have found this more difficult than expected. When I first looked at the oven before ordering the part, I saw a couple of screws and it seemed like an easy task. However, I found that I had to remove to whole door first, which was actually easy. Then I started to remove the case. Then I removed several layers of a puzzle. Oven door had 3 pieces of glass and 3 metal brackets. The installation video was for a completely different oven. Although I got out the broken glass easily, I had difficulty reassembling. The oven diagram for the parts was even deceiving. I had to involve my spouse and after an hour of cursing everything, we finally managed to get the thing back together. Whoever designed this oven must have been a deranged German scientist. However, everything is back to normal and I probably saved a couple hundred bucks for a repairman.

By reversing the way I removed the door hinges from the frame, per the reinstall instructions. I called the 800# and they emailed me a diagram, but the hinges depicted were different than mine. When my back feels better, I'll keep trying.

Did not want to remove the pin from the new hinges, so found a proper rod and cut off two half inch pins to use in removing the door. followed the manual instructions. Took all of the screws out but did not notice that the four inside face screws were machine screws while all others were sheet metal screws. Had a little difficulty in getting the four machine screws to engage the bottom holes of the new hinges. Reinstalled the door and all works fine. It is too bad that we could not purchase just a new hinge spring instead of the entire unit. It is kind of a waste. I suspect that self cleaning ovens generate a very high heat which eventually weakens the hinge. The upper oven will likely fail in the future, but at least I know how to repair it.

I was able to convince a local mechanic that he could do this after watching it done four times. The most difficult part was unscrewing and taking out the oven to get to the back. He suggested since this has happened everytime I used the self-cleaning feature, that I cut a hole in the wall for easier access (tongue-in-cheek). The most difficult part was dealing with the extended warranty service plan - this is covered, but they could not find a technician to do this. Then I found out they don't pay mileage so who would want to come out to a rural ND ranch to repair an oven?

There are hinges on the door that need to be lifted up to take the entire oven door off the appliance. The screws are taken off of the door to get to the interior glass. The cracked oven door was simply taken off and replaced by the new one and the screws were put back and the door was placed by hooking it onto the appliance and the hinges were dropped down. Simple as that!

First, I'll say this website made it easy to find and order the part, it arrived quickly and reading others' reviews helped with installation. My Dad and I did the repair together, which really helped - my Dad is an fantastic handyman! We removed the door by lifting it up out of the hinges - a little difficult to get the right angle, but we succeeded with a little wiggling. We disassembled each later of glass/door, keeping each layer in order with screws so we could retrace our steps. I cleaned each layer thoroughly, which added to the time. Unfortunately, just as we were putting the last part on (exterior door with glass), the glass shattered as I tightened the screw! Ack! My Dad said it's because the glass was old and easy to shatter. Maybe I tightened the screw too much? So, back to the website I go to order the next part. We expect it to arrive soon. The bad news: another Christmas without an oven. The good news: my oven is now clean as new (I even removed the back fan cover to clean the fan - couldn't have done that without removing the door) and the parts added up to a fraction of the cost of a new oven.

Removed trim strip from each side of oven, removed one screw from each side hat held oven in place and slid oven out of wall. Finally found the thermostat located on the back side of the oven after removing the sheet metal on back. replaced the thermostat and reversed the procedure. Only difficult part was locating the thermostat. I thought it was on top, when in fact it was on the back. Pretty easy, really, and saved some cash in the process.

Removed oven from the wall. Take off back panel. Removed thermal overload thermostat. Replaced with new part and works great.

unscrewed the top glass protector off and took the old bulb out and put the new bulb in. very easy - less than 5 minutes.

screwed in the new oven light

Turn off power at the breaker panel; remove oven door (see instructions in owners manual) and racks. Take out the 2 screws holding the element to roof of oven; next remove the 2 screws attaching the element at the rear of the oven; pull out element and disconnect wires. Attach new element to the wires and replace the 2 screws holding element to roof of oven. Next replace to 2 screws attaching element to the rear wall. Replace oven racks and door and turn power back on.

Took out the 2 screws and removed 2 wires connected to old element, put on new one. Did this all in about 5-10 minutes. Hubby didn't even have to help!