WOC95EC0AS00 Whirlpool Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Remove the oven door. Remove 3 self tappers on rear wall of oven to take off a round access panel. Pull out a pre-cut rectangle of insulation. Next I removed the 2 screws holding the sensor in place. Pulling the sensor out a bit told me I was "touching" the correct wires in the SMALL rectangular opening. The wires are not visable and 2 hands do not fit in this small opening.I looked at the NEW sensor to see the release on the sensor plug. Slip the angled needle nose into the opening and grasp the plug/release side. The plug pulled apart easily. The sensor wire pulls out with a little bit of twisting to fit it out the hole. The new plug pushes in and has to be worked down to where you can reach it. The same angled plier works to re-attach it. It takes longer to read this than to do the job. Best of luck, Al

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

I used a Google search to show how to access the area behind the front panel. There was a folded paper copy with a schematic and wiring diagram in that space.Then I used a multi-meter to determine which of the THREE micro-switches was causing the problem. I called your help line and ordered a replacement switch. The switch was delayed in transit so your agent credited me with the cost of shipping.

When the part arrived, it had three terminals instead of two as shown in the on-line picture but that did not cause any difficulty in using it. It took about 20 minutes to remove and replace the old switch.

All seems to be working well now.

Finding which of the THREE switches was the problem was the most difficult part of the repair. All three "clicked" but the defective one did not click as easily. It needed to be depressed more than the door latch can would provide. Old age?

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

If doing this for the first time, it's harder to replace than described by others.

Start by removing the oven door. Reach in to unscrew the two screws that hold the sensor in place on the back wall of the oven. I was working on the upper oven of a double wall oven and found it more comfortable to sit on a tall bar stool while working. Pull the sensor partially out and you will see the connector wire running through the sensor opening. The sensor connector plug is too deep into the oven to reach with fingers or any tool. Next unscrew the 6" round heat circulator fan just below the sensor on the back wall of the oven. Pull the fan partially out and you will see the plug for the temp sensor directly behind. You may have to push some of the insulation of out of way. Unplug the old sensor and pull it back out directly through the sensor opening. Take the new sensor and thread it in through the opening and plug it in. Reinstall the circulator fan and then screw the new sensor in place. This should complete the temp sensor replacement.

IMPORTANT: DO NOT TOUCH THE REPLACEMENT LAMP WITHOUT WEARING CLEAN GLOVES. FILM OR FINGER PRINTS ON THE LAMP GLASS WILL CAUSE PREMATURE FAILURE OF THE LAMP.

Remove the 4 screws on right and left mounting rails that hold the unit to the kitchen cabinet.
Remove the oven door
Remove the chrome oven vent strip below the oven door. This allows a pry point beneath the combo microwave oven assembly to lift up the unit while pulling it out. (Assembly weighs 250 pounds)
Pull the unit out from the cabinet housing about 2-3 inches to reveal the right and left sides and the 4 screws holding the the control panel.
Remove the 4 control panel screws and pull off the face of the control panel
Remove the 2 harness connectors and the ground wire holding the control panel to the unit.
Unclip the circuit board above the lamp connector and slide it back out of the way. The lamp is now accessible.
Remove the lamp spring holding the lamp to the cabinet.
Remove the old lamp
Install the new lamp using clean gloves
Reassemble in reverse order.

Hired a contractor to perform the repair. He didn't show up. Went to Lowes, where the item was purchased, and they didn't know anyone who serviced the unit or where to find a technical manual. Built a platform to hold the unit and my wife and I isolated the power, verified no current, and slid the unit out of the wall to see what was involved.

Found the technical manual in a pouch on the side of the oven and went through the checklist. Found through online research that about 60% of the failures were the inverter, 30% were the Control Board, and 10 or so % were the Magnetron. Made the mistake of getting parts based upon failure rate rather than having someone technically qualified perform a detailed diagnosis. So, after replacing the high frequency failure parts without success, got a well- qualified technical electronics person to help. He did the diagnosis and determined that the problem was in the magnetron unit and was probably the "Thermister." The Thermister is the absolute cheapest part of the four involved with the exception of the high voltage diode, which is on one of the boards already replaced.

The Thermister is probably the part needed since it is on backorder for a couple of weeks by all the online parts suppliers checked.

At this point, we will replace the Thermister and return the Magnetron if that works. If not we will replace the Magnetron. When that is done we will have completely rebuilt the unit and it should be good for another 4 or five years.

The repairs are relatively easy. The boards are static sensitive and both the main board and replacement parts need grounded. There is also a capacitor that needs to be discharged before working on the unit. Total weight of the combo unit is about 70 pounds but it is bulky so a helper to lift the unit down to work on the microwave is necessary to safely remove the built in unit and to replace it.

Some lessons learned:
1. Combo oven units do not have separate ovens and microwave components.
2. When the power is off on the oven combo unit, all of our electric cooking appliances were out of service - including the glass cooktop.
3. Cost of the individual cookiing units - oven, microwave - is much less than the cost of the combination unit.
4. Ovens have a 20 year life expectancy, microwaves have a 5 year life expectancy. Therefore, think carefully about the combo unit vs individual units during construction.
5. There is a screw behind the wiring harness that cannot be accessed with the nut driver very well. This holds the cover on. An 8mm wrench worked well to remove this.
6. Parts described in the manual are not the same as part nomenclature on the online repair manuals or parts listings, nor are part numbers the same.
7. PartSelect.com verified the part nomenclature and identified their part number for the components listed in the Service Manual with the combo unit. I cannot speak highly enough for the assistance and support we received from them while ordering parts.
8. The most difficult part of this entire operation, now in week 4, is finding the service manual, identification of the defective part, and obtaining the parts. (Paying for them is not a joy either.)

Recommendations:
1. Get a well qualified electronic person to help identify breakers which need isolated, go through the diagnostics, and accurately identify the part needed before buying any parts.
2. Plan to be without all connected appliances while the oven combo is locked out of the breaker panel
3. When building a new home have the built in oven and microwave installed in separate cabinets and wired separately with individual power and control circuits.

All the best in your repairs.

Mike

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

REMOVED PANEL COVER [ 4 SCREWS]
UNSCREWED 2 SCREWS ON LATCH DOOR
ON THIS MODEL THE PART WAS IN TOO TIGHT OF QUARTERS SO I HAD TO LOOSEN A TOP PANEL SO I COULD RAISE PART HIGH
ENOUGH TO RELEASE IT FROM A CATCH AT THE BACK OF THE PART. PUSH PART BACK, RAISE AND PULL FORWARDS.
REMOVED 4 WIRES ONE AT A TIME AND ATTACHING TO NEW PART. REPLACED PART, TIGHTEN TOP PANEL AND REPLACED PANEL COVER.

NOT BAD FOR A 91 YEAR OLD

I removed the 2 screws holding the sensor in the back of the oven and pulled the wires out. The connector got hung up in the insulation. Rather than pulling too hard, I loosened up the heating element plate and screws and pulled the whole plate out an inch or so so I could work the connector through the insulation. I forgot to shut off the power. When I put the sensor on, I got the same error. I briefly shut off the power at the breaker and turned it back on. The clock on the oven did not reset. It still didn't work. So I took the whole thing out, shut off the power, reconnected it, turned the power back on, reset the clock, and it worked! Should have turned the power off first and I wouldn't have had to do it twice.

I tryed to remove the sensor from the oven by removing the screws inside the oven. Unfortunatly, the plug for the sensor would not reach the inside of the oven. I had to remove the oven from the wall and remove the back cover to ac3ess the sensor wiring.
After that it was a snap.

Didn't need sensor replaced. After turning the breaker switch back on oven appeared to be working fine.

Should be about 1 5/8 inch with 3/8 inch prongs. Sent bulb won’t fit.
JennAire book showed
Part 74004458-halogen bulb part PS 11765655 was substituted.
I paid additional shipping so my son could install when here. My husband and I are 79 and unable to bend into the oven.
I need the correct part
where do I return the unopened $29.95 bulb for credit on my card and receive the correct one?????
Carolyn Sanders 817-319-6581
Order 21938961