GSC309PVS02 Whirlpool Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

I removed the oven door by opening it to the horizontal position and inserting a small allen wrench in the open holes in each hinge. I then closed the door and lifted it free of the oven. I place the door face up on a packing blanket and removed the screws at the top of the door and the screws and clamps at the bottom of the door. I then lifted the outside glass door off the inner metal frame and set it in a safe place. I next removed the bracket holding the two inner pieces of glass and pulled the glass sheets out of the sheet metal holders. I then removed the screws which attached them to the metal door frame. Once the holders were off I removed the broken glass. I cleaned all the glass pieces and reversed the process to finish the repair.

Recieved the part promptly. From looking at the diagrams, we knew the overload thermostat was located on the back of the oven. We removed the screws, brackets, etc, slid the oven out, which for us was fairly easy as it's an under counter oven. Located the thermostat, removed it, replaced the new one, connected two clip wires, replaced the oven, turned the power back on and it works like a champ. Total cost was under 50 bucks.

We had to remove two screws from the bottom of the outer glass door that held two brackets. Those brackets held the glass door in place. Then we had to remove two more layers of glass after that using a screwdriver. Then the inner glass, which was the one broken, we had to use pliers to bend the metal tabs that were holding it in place. We got the new glass in, bent the metal tabs back, returned the other two layers of glass, and then slide the outside glass door back in and returned the two brackets at the bottom. The hardest part was figuring out how to get started. Once we removed those bottom brackets, it was pretty easy after that.

Thanks to those who replied to my intitial distress call...because of them I had the courage to attempt the repair.
First I flipped the main electrica breaker.
then I removed the screws from the main door. The next step was to pop out the pins holding the hinges. I couldn't do that no mater how much WD-40 and lubricant I used, or how hard I tapped center mass.....SO I took all the OTHER components out staring with the side facings. (1 screw right left and 2 for bottom.)
Next I took the screws holding the door together out -- then the two screws holding the clamps on the bottom of the door. At this point I lifted off the the front facing of the door by the handle and placed it with its glass, to the side.

I then had access to the two inside panes of glass. They are secured with a metal plate screwed into the metal of the inner door. When I removed the two screws securing the plate, two plates dropped to the floor and it was fortunate I was holding the glas securly as it two would have dropped.
Next, I cleaned each of tpieces of glass with oven cleaner and set them carefuly to the side.(they were crusted with brown) Lastly I wiggled the broken glass out of the small inner window, working from both the inside and the outside of the window. Becuase I couldn't open out the door.. this was an extrememly time consuming activity..but do-able.

Once the inner glass was in screwed one of the screws o the clamp plate so I could rest the glass while screwing in the second screw. Once screw two was in place I took out the retaining screw and replaceed in with the glass clamped between. Aftern that the tough stuff was done and I just reassmebled all the door parts.

This SHOULD have been much simplier! IF I could have removed the hinge pins as directed.

Anyway, mission acomplished. Oven works fine.
Thanks!

I removed eight screws to disassemble the oven door. I removed the old insulation and the brackets that held class panel in place. I installed the new insulation, tempered glass and reassembled the oven door.

Replacement of the thermal overload safety thermostat very straight forward after sliding unit out, killing power and removing two covers. Tested both old and new and both show continuity (= good). Installed new, restored power and tested for proper operation. Didn't happen. Replaced original and now have new as spare. Now suspect the double line break relay on electronic control board is failed and source of problem. It is common to both elements and immediate before the suspected thermostat in circuit.

The repair was pretty simple. I removed the old door front from the oven door, there were only 4 screws to remove. I then removed the handle off the old door and placed it onto the new door front. Finally, I placed the new door front over the oven door lining up the srew holes and screwed them in. I would recommend attaching the bottom plates first to make sure the oven door front and oven door are flush at the bottom.

No repair - just open the box and put the rack in my oven - voila - repaired!!! BUT let me tell you PartSelect sent the right part at the best price and I received it even ealier than I expected!!! I can DEFINITELY recommend these people and I do that very sparingly!!!! THANX!

1)Power off 2) Remove frame covering front timer display - screw on the bottom 3) unscrew time display - 4 screws 4) unsnap lamp spring clip 5)replace lamp

Kept removing screws and pulled things out until I got to the inner glass.
Yep, clueless and never did this before.
Put everything back in the opposite order of taking it out. Wala it's fixed.
Repair people wanted over $300 for parts and labor. However, with Partselect I was able to fix it for under $50.00 Well worth it!
Carmen

The inner glass on the wall oven shattered (apparently a common problem). Rather than look at a new $2-3,000 oven, I found the part for around $30. The repair was actually fairly easy, just had to be careful with the glass panes.
I did not remove the door completely, just worked on it either open or closed, depending on the step. First I loosened the two screws on the bottom of the door (when closed). Then I removed the four screws on the inside of the door and the two on the top part of the door (2). This allowed the outer panel to slide out and be removed.
Then there are two middle panes, held on by small clips with two screws in each. Remove one at a time, being careful not to drop any of the glass on the floor! Remember the order of the glass and the clips, so you can replace in the same order. (Now's a good time to clean all of the inner panes also, and to vacuum out the interior of the door.)
Lay these panes aside, and you should be to the broken inner pane, held on by a metal panel--again remove a couple screws, the panel, and remove all the broken glass. Be careful to retain all the insulation around the glass, and replace the glass, then the metal panel, the inner panes, and the outer door panel in that order. The outer panel should slide into place if you remove one clip and screw and start on one side, then replace the clip.

This is a drop in range so I had to remove the range and set on a dolly. Turn the dolly around and acess the THRMST-FIX that needed replaceing, it was open. put the range back in its place and could still use the rest of stove until I received the parts 2 days later .
Pulled the range out put the new THRMST-FIX in put the range back together and put the range back in place and it has worked ever since.
GOOD JOB

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

I turned off the power to the oven at the breaker. I then removed the side trim pieces by removing the screws located behind the lower oven door. I removed the plastic trim pieces above and below the microwave oven and removed the control panel and slid it into the opening above the microwave. I located the two screws securing the microwave into the frame and began sliding it out. I had to disconnect a small wiring harness and two wires from the microwave that were attached inside the opening above the microwave. The microwave section was the easily slid out, turned on it's side where the turntable motor was accessed by removing the access panel. I pulled the old motor, checked resistance and it matched the new motor. I then checked the old motor by applying 120V to it and it ran FINE! I thought I had the wrong part, but decided to install the new motor anyway. I did, secured the access panel and replaced the microwave in the frame. I reconnected the wires and secured the control panel and tested the microwave...and the turntable works!

I took out the old chipped dish and replaced with the new dish...