GMC275PRT01 Whirlpool Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Removed double oven from cabinet after removing the doors, placing it on a milk crate, needs two people, turned it slightly to access the rear panels, removed panels and lower of the 2 motors and installed new motor, replaced all panels. I now have to check to make sure it is turned on it is so quiet! We lived with this noise so long because the appliance repair people said it was very expensive, about $400.00 to replace the motor, we did it for under $100.00 !!

Like others said, the trick was getting the oven door off. If you don't have the instructions, here's how: Open the door all the way. Shine a flashlight on the hinge, and you will see an open hole about 3/16" diameter below the hingepin and toward the oven. With the door open, put a 5/32" allen wrench or any other comparably-sized metal pin into the hole in each hinge. With the pins in place, close the door as far as it will go, which is almost but not quite fully closed. Put one hand under the door handle, the other hand under the bottom of the door, and pull the bottom of the door down and out. With maybe a little wiggling, it will come right out. That's really all there is to it! Taking out all the glass layers is straightforward; you don't need any instructions to see how to do it.

The only difficult part of this repair was figuring out how to get the oven door off. Most instructions advise you to flip the hinge locking clips, then lift off the door. But this oven does not have hinge locking clips. What it has is holes in the hinges, just behind the hinge pins. To get the door off, you need to open the door and insert some 3/16' pins in those holes, then close the door and lift it off. I almost got this right the first time, but I used 1/8" pins, and they didn't work, too small. It took me a long time to figure out to use bigger pins. Once the door is off, it's just a few Philips screws to work your way down to the glass. There are 4 layers of glass in this door.

There are hinges on the door that need to be lifted up to take the entire oven door off the appliance. The screws are taken off of the door to get to the interior glass. The cracked oven door was simply taken off and replaced by the new one and the screws were put back and the door was placed by hooking it onto the appliance and the hinges were dropped down. Simple as that!

Turned the circuit breaker off, removed trim and the oven screws, pulled oven out, and placed on a stand in front. Electrical cord was just long enough without disconnecting. Removed the back panel, installed the old thermostat with the new one the same way. Used the same phillips screwdriver for the operation. Installed the oven using reverse order. Turn circuit breaker on, back in business. Prior comments definitely helped me a lot. Thanks.

This site helped me diagnois the problem rating the suggested problem as a 99% chance cause of the problem. Ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat and it arrived in just two days. Repair was quick and easy once getting the oven removed from the cabinet. (It's very heavy so have some assistance or a sturdy stand to set it out on.)#2 Phillips scredriver and needle nose pliers were only tools needed. Overall, an easy repair for anyone.

re thermostat/fuse breakage after cleaning: I replaced the part a 2nd time within a year, both times after a cleaning cycle and after 10 years of no similar problem . This time, when putting the oven back, I cleaned all around the door frame and noticed the exhaust grill was heavily filled with dust strands. It's possible this reduced the exhaust enough to overheat the oven during long high temp cleaning and blow the thermo fuse. Just a thought.

After reading other repair reports and talking to a representative, I ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat. Relatively easy to install after removing the oven from the cabinet, only it did not work. After going over the wiring with a voltage meter, we discovered there was no power to the upper oven, only the lower oven was working. Took the panel off the top of the oven and found a wire which was not attached to anything. Never needed this part at all. This oven was purchased from a second-hand store and was used in a remodeling. $52 for part and $100 for serviceman to make the oven operational.

I found several posts about Whirlpool/KitchenAid ovens having this problem and most of the time this required a replacement of the thermal fuse. Other than the large number of screws to remove the oven and the sheet metal coverings, replacing the fuse was mostly about waiting to get the part. If I had a local dealer with the fuse, I probably could have been baking Deep Dark Chocolate Cheesecake that same evening. Even so, this particular repair should be left to those familiar with doing moderate-level handyman type repairs. You have to make sure the breaker is off and beware of the sharp edges on sheet metal. Fortunately, the fuse was easy to find using online documentation for my model. Part Select was very helpful when my original order did not arrive. Their customer service was great!

replace thermal safety switch on back of oven

Visited PartSelect.com and ordered the element. Talked to a really sweet lady who assisted me at the company by ordering the part. Received the part and my husband cut off the electricity to the stove, took off the old element, got the sockets and after pushing on the new element, and he screwed the screws back on, cut on the electricity and we cut the stove on and it was ready to go. VERY, VERY SIMPLE TO REPAIR.

I followed the step-by-step instructions from Steve on the part select videos posted on Youtube.

1. REMEMBERED TO SHUT OFF THE APPLICABLE 240V BREAKER. 2. Carefully removed the 2 screws holding the element to the oven structure 3. Carefully extracted the 2 wires from the holes at the rear. 4. Carefully removed the wires from the old element 5. Attached the wire sockets to the new element. 6. Carefully eased the wires back through the holes at the rear 7. Attached the 2 screws through the element holding clamp to the rear wall of the oven. Everything went better than I had expected.

Contacted repair person on line and explained the problem. Person suggested testing the thermal fuse. Checked for continuity and there was none indicating the fuse was blown. Ordered new part and installed. Everything working again. Only problem was that the new part did not have the same connection as the old one on one end. Made substitution and it worked.

Have a Whirlpool Accubake self cleaning wall oven that quit working after doing a cleaning. Found that the thermal overload safety thermostat might be the problem. Ordered the part which arrived in a couple of days. Installation was very easy and took about 10 minutes. First turn off power to the oven. Slide the oven out, remove the back panel, remove the old safety thermostat which has two wires coming off of it, and replace it with the new one. Put the back panel on and slid the oven back in. Turned the power to the oven back on and we had heat. Problem solved.