GMC305PDT07 Whirlpool Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

The replacement of the blower was an easy repair. Just had to remove two back panels of the oven and the blower was then very accessable. Just remove the two electrical wires and then three screws and the blower came right off. Put the new blower on with the three screws and replaced the 10 or 12 screws holding the back panels and the job was complete!. The difficult part of the job was removing the combo unit from the cabinet to access the back panels. That part took some effort. Had to build a platform to slide the oven out onto after I disconnected the electrical feed wire (#6 wire) located in a junction box in my attic. Once that was done, the actual blower replacement was simple. The turntable motor was a different story...Although replacing the turntable motor was going to be as easy as replacing the blower motor, I couldn't access the underside of the microwave without disassembling the whole combo unit cabinet! That was very disappointing to me that Whirlpool didn't make that part easier to access, so I didn't replace the turntable motor. Too bad but we are just going to live with the turntable not turning!!

This was more difficult than anticipated - probably because I'd never done it before. Once I got the door off (I didn't have the proper pins and used nails but didn't realize they had to be headless) I found all the screws, which were relatively easy to take out. I was surprised that the thermal door glass was obscured by two other panes of glass. It took more disassembly than anticipated and a few false starts when reassembling, but all in all it got done. I was happy that a job that would have cost probably $300 or more ended up getting done for $40 plus my labor - which isn't worth much these days. I'd certaily do it again.

Removed and replaced boiler element

Part arrived in timely manner and placed it in microwave oven.

Set the new one inside the microwave

removed double oven from wall removed cover from electronic cover and replaced part. realitivity simple repair

XLarge pizza tray in a 450 degree oven - slam the door & CRACK. Replacement glass arrived on Saturday - VERY FAST DELIVERY. Placed 2 allen wrenches in both hinges - open the door half way & lift up. Place the door on a towel. Removed 6 screws, lift & seperated the inner oven covering, removed the broken glass & cleaned inside & replaced with new glass. More time was spent cleaning & coming up with a tool to fit into the hinge

I bought an old house where this Double Wall oven was not working. I looked at the suppressor and one of the Red diodes was burnt. So, I removed it, took a picture of it and send it to the sales rep. She located the part exact part and sent it within 3 days. Then I installed it and the oven worked beautifully. My Appliance repair man gave me an estimate of $760.00 and I was able to repair within 30 minutes and $60.00 part. Really happy, Thank you .

I found that what was keeping the old temp sensor electrical connection attached to the stove-side connection was a little tab. It wasn't obvious that that was the thing that was keeping the connection secure but there weren't any other alternatives. So pushing the tab up with the metal probe (just a narrow rigid metal wire) allowed me to pull the connection apart.

All this takes place way at the back of the oven so its difficult to fiddle with a screwdriver and the retaining screws at arms length. Putting a bit of scotch tape around the screw to keep it attached to the screwdriver kept it from falling off. My hand was a bit shaky extended like that so that was the way to go.

Bottom line, if your oven won't reach or hold the temp you dial in on the control panel it's the temperature sensor. Now if I set it for 300 deg. that's what I get.

Followed a video. Followed instructions

PartSelect website indicated replacing the high voltage power supply diode is the solution for "no heat" 99% of the time, but the diode was OK. There is more info at the website concerning the case of "loud buzzing and no heat" indicating the magnetron needs to be replaced. As an electrical engineer with knowledge of microwave components, this was also my best guess. However, getting to the magnetron is not the easiest job, but it's not impossible. You also have to be careful to bleed off any charge stored on the high voltage power supply capacitor. Luckily, I found my KitchenAid service manual tucked away inside the unit since I couldn't find it online.

1. Disconnect AC power 2. Remove back with several sheet metal screws. 3. Remove wires from Limit Thermostat. 4. Check Limit Thermostat continuity -- if open then Limit Thermostat is faulty. 5. Remove Limit Thermostat with two screws. 6. Install new thermostat

Cut the power. Undid the screws to the element. Popped off the old element replaced with new,put screws back in turned power back on and Shazam it was up and going

I followed the instructions per a YouTube video. My older model was slightly different in parts used in the video, but the general idea was the same. Very happy with current repair / parts. The door now opens smooth as glass, and I even got a chance to clean some internal parts inside the door.

https://youtu.be/tAypQqC5cxo?si=YoDaVMHtalPP3mhO

Removed old racks, installed new racks. Recycled old racks.