KEMC377KBL04 KitchenAid Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Here's a 21st century tip for all repairs: Get out your cell phone and take pictures of the steps as you go so you'll always have a reference if you forget something.

The replacement of the tension spring is easy. Getting there is the hard part. First, you need to remove the grill between the oven and microwave doors. There are 2 screw in the center and one on each end. Then just pull it away from the oven. This allows access to the the two clips that hold the bottom of the door on.
Next, remove the 2 u-shaped clips on the bottom of the door on both sides. 1 screw each. The bottom of the door will be loose, so be careful on the next step.
Open the door. Clamping the outer part of the door and the inner part with one hand, remove the 2 screws on the the inside of the door cover. They are closest to you at 10 and 2 o'clock. The outer door trim will now come off. Put it aside and close the door. On the bottom of the door frame, locate and remove 2 more screws about 6 inches from the ends and the inside plastic cover will be free to remove.
Now you will be able to remove the broken tension spring by lifting and threading it out of the groove it sits in. Replace with the new tension spring by threading the looped side into that groove first and criss-crossing it over the other tension spring. Then locate the hole on the opposite hinge and slide it in place. This will lock it in. Reverse the procedure for putting the door back together as you did removing it. You may want to get someone to help you hold the door open considering the new spring will snap it shut without the weight of the door on it. After you reassemble the door, replace the vent grill between the doors and you're done.

Used flat tip screw driver to pry front clip holding glass cover out of position. Pulled out dead bulb and pushed in new one. Slid clip back on glass cover and slid back into place. Simple. .

Replacement of the thermal overload safety thermostat very straight forward after sliding unit out, killing power and removing two covers. Tested both old and new and both show continuity (= good). Installed new, restored power and tested for proper operation. Didn't happen. Replaced original and now have new as spare. Now suspect the double line break relay on electronic control board is failed and source of problem. It is common to both elements and immediate before the suspected thermostat in circuit.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

I used a Google search to show how to access the area behind the front panel. There was a folded paper copy with a schematic and wiring diagram in that space.Then I used a multi-meter to determine which of the THREE micro-switches was causing the problem. I called your help line and ordered a replacement switch. The switch was delayed in transit so your agent credited me with the cost of shipping.

When the part arrived, it had three terminals instead of two as shown in the on-line picture but that did not cause any difficulty in using it. It took about 20 minutes to remove and replace the old switch.

All seems to be working well now.

Finding which of the THREE switches was the problem was the most difficult part of the repair. All three "clicked" but the defective one did not click as easily. It needed to be depressed more than the door latch can would provide. Old age?

1)Power off 2) Remove frame covering front timer display - screw on the bottom 3) unscrew time display - 4 screws 4) unsnap lamp spring clip 5)replace lamp

Ordered the glass and read the other reviews/instructions on the PartSelect site. Also read the instructions in my owner's manual for removing the oven door. The hardest part of replacing the glass was the removal and replacement of the door. Once I had the door out, replacing the glass was as simple as removing about 8 or so screws, lifting off the cover and replacing the glass, then replacing the screws. One of the hinges on the door had closed and I was not able to open it to replace the door, so I had to have a neighbor come over to over his muscle power. The hinge problem should not have happened and without that little issue, this is a simple repair that I'm sure saved me at least $100.00 on repairman! And - I'm a woman!

The KitchenAid stainless steel microwave model appears to be a bit different from other install instructions posted:

1) Removing the two inside-door screws will completely release the fairly heavy exterior door panel from two holding clips at the bottom of the door unit. So BE PREPARED and HOLD THE DOOR HANDLE while removing the two screws or panel will crash to the floor. Fortunately I did. Consider help to hold and "catch" the exterior door panel.
2) The inside-door (which the exterior door is attached to) has a plastic frame that needs to be removed to gain access to the springs. However, removing the two screws holding the plastic frame located in the bottom-edge of the inside-door required removing stainless steel framing around the sides and bottom of the MW unit. This additional SS framing around my microwave/oven combo might be the result of a custom cabinet install.
3) Inserting the spring (torque tension rod) was a bit tricky using screw driver and needle nose plyers to hold and twist both ends into place. Again, a second set of hands might help. At this point, the door spring action feels too strong but when re-installed, the weight of the exterior door will normalize this.
4) Re-install plastic frame, SS cabinet framing if applicable, exterior door centered onto holding clips, and you should be finished. Check that two screws in step # 1 holding exterior door are tight without stripping to ensure your repair job doesn't result in the exterior door crashing to the floor following normal use.
5) In all, the spring cost $45 w/tax and 3-day delivery and the repair time was about 30 minutes vs. repair estimates starting at $129.

I used the instructions from another user on this site and the instructions were great. First look in your oven manual to see how to get the oven off-hardest part of repair. Before removing door-duct tape the broken glass. Remove door. Lay door down on flat surface and keep track of screws as you take them out. Remove outer liner-we removed 6 screws total. Replace glass with new glass. Reattached outer liner back onto door. Replace door. This is a GREAT site. Thanks.

This is a drop in range so I had to remove the range and set on a dolly. Turn the dolly around and acess the THRMST-FIX that needed replaceing, it was open. put the range back in its place and could still use the rest of stove until I received the parts 2 days later .
Pulled the range out put the new THRMST-FIX in put the range back together and put the range back in place and it has worked ever since.
GOOD JOB

Took longer to take door off than replace glass.The door would have come off easy if I had read the instructions that came with the oven

I turned off the power to the oven at the breaker. I then removed the side trim pieces by removing the screws located behind the lower oven door. I removed the plastic trim pieces above and below the microwave oven and removed the control panel and slid it into the opening above the microwave. I located the two screws securing the microwave into the frame and began sliding it out. I had to disconnect a small wiring harness and two wires from the microwave that were attached inside the opening above the microwave. The microwave section was the easily slid out, turned on it's side where the turntable motor was accessed by removing the access panel. I pulled the old motor, checked resistance and it matched the new motor. I then checked the old motor by applying 120V to it and it ran FINE! I thought I had the wrong part, but decided to install the new motor anyway. I did, secured the access panel and replaced the microwave in the frame. I reconnected the wires and secured the control panel and tested the microwave...and the turntable works!

This one is painted model and the door has 2 screws at the bottom and 2 at the top to take out to get the front of the door off. First remove the vent assembly at the bottom of the door by removing the 4 screws.Hold the door together(I finally used a big piece of masking tape to hold the door top together to get it back together). Take the bottom screws out first and then holding the door front from underneath open the door to get at the top 2 inside screw. and pull it away carefully from the inner door parts and lay it aside on a carpet of towel.Then the fun begins-takingout 2 screws holding the plastic inner door cover to get at the torsion springs at the bottom of the door. these screw ar near each end of the plastic part but the left one is directly above a vent sticking out fromthe back of the oven below. There is only about #/4- i inch space to get a screw driver onto the phillips head screw. I have alot of small screw driers butnot even aphillips head fro a drill driver is short enough to get into the space. I used apreviously bent small screwdiriver to get the screw out. I tried to bend another screwdrover to a shorter dostance but it snapped off in the bending process. I fanally got it out and replaced the broken spring. Tbouth a set of sprnings that were supposed to be the same for left and right sides so I decided to replace oth springs while I had it apart. The right side spring went in fairly easily after figuring out how th thread it into the holes. The unbroken spring wass not so easy. I finally idcovered that the new spring ws not bent the same as the original one and was not going to go in the place of the old one. I ended up putting the old one back in and putting the dooor together with a little difficulty. I replaced the bottom screw on the door with longer ones as well as the upper ones and got a much better job done.

I took out the old chipped dish and replaced with the new dish...

The instructions from another customer was helpful. I concur with another comment I read while researching this proceedure. What Idio-- would design a microwave that required pulling the unit from the wall and removing the top panel just to access. It is good idea to unplug the transformer and capacitor wires before proceeding. I also googled a schematic to see the parts layout. Remember not to touch the bulb with your fingers. Use a cloth or paper towel.