KEMS377GAL4 KitchenAid Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Part arrived in timely manner and placed it in microwave oven.

Set the new one inside the microwave

PartSelect website indicated replacing the high voltage power supply diode is the solution for "no heat" 99% of the time, but the diode was OK. There is more info at the website concerning the case of "loud buzzing and no heat" indicating the magnetron needs to be replaced. As an electrical engineer with knowledge of microwave components, this was also my best guess. However, getting to the magnetron is not the easiest job, but it's not impossible. You also have to be careful to bleed off any charge stored on the high voltage power supply capacitor. Luckily, I found my KitchenAid service manual tucked away inside the unit since I couldn't find it online.

1. Disconnect AC power 2. Remove back with several sheet metal screws. 3. Remove wires from Limit Thermostat. 4. Check Limit Thermostat continuity -- if open then Limit Thermostat is faulty. 5. Remove Limit Thermostat with two screws. 6. Install new thermostat

Thanks to video provided by PartSelect the repair was fast and easy. My second experience with an appliance repair with parts and video from PartSelect. I am a happy customer.

I followed the instructions per a YouTube video. My older model was slightly different in parts used in the video, but the general idea was the same. Very happy with current repair / parts. The door now opens smooth as glass, and I even got a chance to clean some internal parts inside the door.

https://youtu.be/tAypQqC5cxo?si=YoDaVMHtalPP3mhO

I found that what was keeping the old temp sensor electrical connection attached to the stove-side connection was a little tab. It wasn't obvious that that was the thing that was keeping the connection secure but there weren't any other alternatives. So pushing the tab up with the metal probe (just a narrow rigid metal wire) allowed me to pull the connection apart.

All this takes place way at the back of the oven so its difficult to fiddle with a screwdriver and the retaining screws at arms length. Putting a bit of scotch tape around the screw to keep it attached to the screwdriver kept it from falling off. My hand was a bit shaky extended like that so that was the way to go.

Bottom line, if your oven won't reach or hold the temp you dial in on the control panel it's the temperature sensor. Now if I set it for 300 deg. that's what I get.

My oven (late 90's/early 2000's model) didn't have the flip-down hinge locks shown in the video. It seems Whirlpool/Kitchenaid changed the hinges even though they didn't change the model number of the oven. With my style hinges, you have to put Allen wrenches or bent nails in the holes just behind the hinge pins. Then close the door almost all the way and lift it out to separate the hinges. Spring force holds the nails in tightly until you replace the door. This video was very helpful:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7oRZdIN6m0

Also, my door had 3 different kinds of sheet metal screws. Two of them have similar heads but different threads. Keep track of which is which for when you put everything back together.

Originally ordered just the spring assuming that might be it and it was the cheapest way. However after getting in I found that the latch assembly had a broken 'tit' that is intended to hold the metal latch in place as it moves. Attempted to glue w/ epoxy but as i expected there was too much pressure to hold it in place. So....ordered the assembly.

TURN OFF BREAKER.....

1) Remove the two side rails by removing screw on the inside bottom of rails.
2) It helps to remove the door to get it out of your way but not required. To do this open door fully and insert two nails or similar into holes on each hinge. Close the door until the hinge contact nails. Lift the door up and out.
3) remove the top control panel by removing screw on either side (outside of oven)and screws on the underside of panel behind upper door.
4) It help to completely remove the panel to have more room to work but not required. If you do it is a good idea to photo the cable locations so it is easy to recall where they go. For the most part they only fit one location but always a good idea.
5) remove the latch by removing all spade connectors and two screws in front.
6) place new latch and reassemble.

This oven probably was manufactured in the '60s when the house was built. The door doesn't just pull off like the newer models. These pins fit into small holes on the oven hinges. I inserted the pins and lifted the door to a 45 degree angle, before pulling the door completely off. Now that turned out to be the easy part. I then proceeded to completely dismantle the door. It actually has 4 glass layers which had to be cleaned individually. The hardest part of all was actually remembering how to put it back together again. I put the door back on just as I had removed it, then took out the pins, and I was finally done! This was not an easy project, BUT the results look great.

Fool proof.

removed double wall oven light lens install bulb replace lens fini

Remove the left/right outside trim on the double oven. To do this you will need a phillip screw driver. There is only one screw holding each side located at the bottom of the trim (on the inside between the trim and the door). Remove the trim by pulling out and down. Remove the bottom trim by removing the screws located on the outside of the trim. Remove the trim by pulling down and out. Replace the new trim by reversing the process making sure to replace bottom trim first because the outside trim goes over bottom trim to cover up the screws on the bottom trim

Just put it in

removed perimeter screws from the bottom side and the lower cover is hinged at the wall side. Motor is visible and easily removed with two screws. Take of the old one, install the new one, and reverse the procedure to put the bottom cover back in place. Will nee helper to hold one side of the bottom until couple of screws can be put in on the other side.