KBHC179JBL04 KitchenAid Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

All screws easily accessible except for one on bottom of door. It was tough to remove, even tougher to reinstall. Took some time and a unique combination of patience and small tools.

My biggest problem was getting parts. I ordered what was shown in the exploded view - a spring. I received one spring. When I took the door apart I found 2 springs both different (a left and a right). Only one was broken and the spring I received just happened to be the wrong one. It took a phone to work things out and get the other spring shipped.

It would be good if the exploded view showed both springs. It would be better if the part number would just include both springs. Come on, handling, packaging and shipping costs more than these simple springs. If one spring breaks there's a chance the other is about to go. Shipping the pair to customers so we can replace both just makes sense to me.
MSW

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

After popping the last few kernals of popcorn, we hear a different kind of pop sound come from our microwave oven. When we looking inside, we found that the glass turntable had broken unevenly in half. Although we didn't understand why it had happned, we did know we'd be without the use of the microwave without a new one. After less than 10 minutes surfing online, I had found the correct part on PartSelect.com and had arranged to have it shipped to me by speedy delivery. Once it arrived, I just popped the new turntable into the microwave and used the box to dispose of the broken one. It could not have been easier and it saved me the cost of a service call and likely further delay.

My unit is a wall mount/cabinet/built-in model. The repair is actually fairly simple once you determine that the actual microwave is just a component of the entire unit, and that it (the microwave) can be easily removed from the unit. I did not figure this out until after I removed the entire unit (disconnect the power supply, lift the entire bulky, heavy unit out of the cramped space in the cabinet, etc). Once I got it out I figured out how easy it is to remove the actual oven - a couple of screws, literally. The unit is a bit bulky, but not particularly heavy and is quite manageable. I did this entire process alone.

I got the oven out, rolled it on it's side and found the plate to access the motor. The plate is located on the bottom/underside of the unit. The plate is nothing more than a section of the underside of the metal housing that has been cut-out as an access point. This "cut-out" is not complete - that is, not completely cut out so as to all the plate to stay in place without the need for screws, etc, until you actually have to use it. I used a pair of dykes to cut the couple of points still connecting this plate, removed the two phillips screws to remove the motor, disconnected the two wires connected, then reversed to complete the repair. You then flip the cut-out plate over/rotate it, and some screw holes line up. Find a couple of small screws, and re-attach the plate to cover the motor.

The actual fix is really easy, again, once you figure out the simple way to remove the oven. I am an idiot, so you will probably find this much easier. I could probably do this repair now, after my experience, in less than 30 minutes (probably less than 15 minutes). I probably save a couple hundred $ by doing it myself so was well worth the time to do it. Good luck.

In another post it recommends replacing both right and left torsion bars. I took that advice and when it was taken apart it was apparent there had been stress put on the left hand spring, so glad I bought both. When the torsion bars arrived do not be alarmed one (right) is a much larger diameter than the left, went together easily. I thought taking the plastic guard off between the oven and the microwave first allowed me to see how the springs were installed and then I just kept all the screws separate to install back the way it came apart. Another set of hands did make this a much easier job. when you reinstall the bars it seems really tight but after putting the door back on and after opening a dozen times it feels like new again.

Here's a 21st century tip for all repairs: Get out your cell phone and take pictures of the steps as you go so you'll always have a reference if you forget something.

The replacement of the tension spring is easy. Getting there is the hard part. First, you need to remove the grill between the oven and microwave doors. There are 2 screw in the center and one on each end. Then just pull it away from the oven. This allows access to the the two clips that hold the bottom of the door on.
Next, remove the 2 u-shaped clips on the bottom of the door on both sides. 1 screw each. The bottom of the door will be loose, so be careful on the next step.
Open the door. Clamping the outer part of the door and the inner part with one hand, remove the 2 screws on the the inside of the door cover. They are closest to you at 10 and 2 o'clock. The outer door trim will now come off. Put it aside and close the door. On the bottom of the door frame, locate and remove 2 more screws about 6 inches from the ends and the inside plastic cover will be free to remove.
Now you will be able to remove the broken tension spring by lifting and threading it out of the groove it sits in. Replace with the new tension spring by threading the looped side into that groove first and criss-crossing it over the other tension spring. Then locate the hole on the opposite hinge and slide it in place. This will lock it in. Reverse the procedure for putting the door back together as you did removing it. You may want to get someone to help you hold the door open considering the new spring will snap it shut without the weight of the door on it. After you reassemble the door, replace the vent grill between the doors and you're done.

The KitchenAid stainless steel microwave model appears to be a bit different from other install instructions posted:

1) Removing the two inside-door screws will completely release the fairly heavy exterior door panel from two holding clips at the bottom of the door unit. So BE PREPARED and HOLD THE DOOR HANDLE while removing the two screws or panel will crash to the floor. Fortunately I did. Consider help to hold and "catch" the exterior door panel.
2) The inside-door (which the exterior door is attached to) has a plastic frame that needs to be removed to gain access to the springs. However, removing the two screws holding the plastic frame located in the bottom-edge of the inside-door required removing stainless steel framing around the sides and bottom of the MW unit. This additional SS framing around my microwave/oven combo might be the result of a custom cabinet install.
3) Inserting the spring (torque tension rod) was a bit tricky using screw driver and needle nose plyers to hold and twist both ends into place. Again, a second set of hands might help. At this point, the door spring action feels too strong but when re-installed, the weight of the exterior door will normalize this.
4) Re-install plastic frame, SS cabinet framing if applicable, exterior door centered onto holding clips, and you should be finished. Check that two screws in step # 1 holding exterior door are tight without stripping to ensure your repair job doesn't result in the exterior door crashing to the floor following normal use.
5) In all, the spring cost $45 w/tax and 3-day delivery and the repair time was about 30 minutes vs. repair estimates starting at $129.

1)Power off 2) Remove frame covering front timer display - screw on the bottom 3) unscrew time display - 4 screws 4) unsnap lamp spring clip 5)replace lamp

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

This one is painted model and the door has 2 screws at the bottom and 2 at the top to take out to get the front of the door off. First remove the vent assembly at the bottom of the door by removing the 4 screws.Hold the door together(I finally used a big piece of masking tape to hold the door top together to get it back together). Take the bottom screws out first and then holding the door front from underneath open the door to get at the top 2 inside screw. and pull it away carefully from the inner door parts and lay it aside on a carpet of towel.Then the fun begins-takingout 2 screws holding the plastic inner door cover to get at the torsion springs at the bottom of the door. these screw ar near each end of the plastic part but the left one is directly above a vent sticking out fromthe back of the oven below. There is only about #/4- i inch space to get a screw driver onto the phillips head screw. I have alot of small screw driers butnot even aphillips head fro a drill driver is short enough to get into the space. I used apreviously bent small screwdiriver to get the screw out. I tried to bend another screwdrover to a shorter dostance but it snapped off in the bending process. I fanally got it out and replaced the broken spring. Tbouth a set of sprnings that were supposed to be the same for left and right sides so I decided to replace oth springs while I had it apart. The right side spring went in fairly easily after figuring out how th thread it into the holes. The unbroken spring wass not so easy. I finally idcovered that the new spring ws not bent the same as the original one and was not going to go in the place of the old one. I ended up putting the old one back in and putting the dooor together with a little difficulty. I replaced the bottom screw on the door with longer ones as well as the upper ones and got a much better job done.

I turned off the power to the oven at the breaker. I then removed the side trim pieces by removing the screws located behind the lower oven door. I removed the plastic trim pieces above and below the microwave oven and removed the control panel and slid it into the opening above the microwave. I located the two screws securing the microwave into the frame and began sliding it out. I had to disconnect a small wiring harness and two wires from the microwave that were attached inside the opening above the microwave. The microwave section was the easily slid out, turned on it's side where the turntable motor was accessed by removing the access panel. I pulled the old motor, checked resistance and it matched the new motor. I then checked the old motor by applying 120V to it and it ran FINE! I thought I had the wrong part, but decided to install the new motor anyway. I did, secured the access panel and replaced the microwave in the frame. I reconnected the wires and secured the control panel and tested the microwave...and the turntable works!

I took out the old chipped dish and replaced with the new dish...

The instructions from another customer was helpful. I concur with another comment I read while researching this proceedure. What Idio-- would design a microwave that required pulling the unit from the wall and removing the top panel just to access. It is good idea to unplug the transformer and capacitor wires before proceeding. I also googled a schematic to see the parts layout. Remember not to touch the bulb with your fingers. Use a cloth or paper towel.

I used a Google search to show how to access the area behind the front panel. There was a folded paper copy with a schematic and wiring diagram in that space.Then I used a multi-meter to determine which of the THREE micro-switches was causing the problem. I called your help line and ordered a replacement switch. The switch was delayed in transit so your agent credited me with the cost of shipping.

When the part arrived, it had three terminals instead of two as shown in the on-line picture but that did not cause any difficulty in using it. It took about 20 minutes to remove and replace the old switch.

All seems to be working well now.

Finding which of the THREE switches was the problem was the most difficult part of the repair. All three "clicked" but the defective one did not click as easily. It needed to be depressed more than the door latch can would provide. Old age?

easily IDed parts; ordered, here 3 days later. very convenient. no hassle. no wasted time going from place to place or calling everyone in yellow pages.