KEMS377GAL3 KitchenAid Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

By reversing the way I removed the door hinges from the frame, per the reinstall instructions. I called the 800# and they emailed me a diagram, but the hinges depicted were different than mine. When my back feels better, I'll keep trying.

Because of the complexity of this door I video-taped my disassembly of the door to make sure I was able to put it all back together again (self-cleaning oven). Original order from PartSelect.com of 2 replacement hinges and a gasket worked only 3 months (the hinges) and the door again wouldn't close. I tried a couple dozen times to remove and put the door back on to no avail. It was my opinion that the original hinges were defective and I called PartSelect.com again. By this time I had removed the hinges (the first set purchased) and noticed the metal was "soft" and had sharp edges in a couple of areas where the hinge hook into the oven. When the replacement hinges arrived (the 1st two purchased came with a 1-year warranty) I compared the 2 new ones with the 2 first purchased and they were slightly different. I once again installed the new hinges, tightened all the screws, and the oven door immediately fell into place and is working perfectly. I have no idea why the first two new hinges worked for only 3 months and then the door once again wouldn't close but the two new replacements from PartSelect.com are working perfectly now. I am disappointed I was charged shipping for the 2nd set of hinges while they were covered under warranty. I do feel that because the 1st set were defective and under warranty I should not have been charged shipping of the 2nd set of hinges.

My mother and I were having considerable trouble baking or using the wall oven due to the escape of heat because the door wouldn't close properly. She, on many occasions, rested heavy baking pans/sheets on the door which, over years, caused it to "spring". Before I started the project I took a level and saw the door was facing down at least 3/8"-1/2" more than being level. I assumed it was the Door Hinges and after much research I found PartSelect who was extremely helpful in not only advising me as to the exact problem causing the door to not close properly but also in the ordering process itself. Because of the complexity of how the door is assembled I took digital video at various stages: removal of the door, disassembly of the entire door, removal of the control panel, and various small parts of the door - all with audio description by me as I went along. Because it took a few days to order and receive the parts I had time to clean the baked-on, caked-on grease inside all the parts to include the vents on the door and under the control panel using a power-washer when possible. I obtained auto-strength grease cutter/remover and soaked every "group" of screws in separate glass jars with covers (labeled). I also taped screws to a piece of paper, traced them to make sure they went back in the same place, and washed these as I went along. At the time the parts were received they were packaged in a fantastic way - quick shipping, easy to order, and I immediately started to reassemble the door. When I found my video wasn't enough to help me get the door assembled properly I used .pdf files I found on PartSelect which were extemely helpful and with a laptop close by I referred to the video I had taken and also SmartSelect's .pdf files. Because my digital camera was - and is now defective - I lost some of the most important video and this is the reason it took me almost 5-1/2 hours to reassemble the door. I wanted it to be correct given the oven is self-cleaning plus I do not want fires in the house!! All parts were laid out across three rooms and after being like this for almost a week it was great to have the entire oven back together again. At this point the oven door, when opened, is now facing "up" at least 3/4" as opposed to hanging down as it was before this project started. I closed the door and it actually pulled itself shut - something it hadn't done in years! The hinges came with pins already inserted so I didn't have to wrestle with the hinges to insert the original pins. The gasket was the easiest part to replace - simple removal of the old, worn, charred one and pop in the new one using the little clips that came on the hinge. The hinges themselves are extremely strong and well-made. After this project I have to say the oven now looks BETTER than when purchased, my mother has used it to cook with only once and it took 1/2 to 3/4 the time given the door is now completely closed because of the new hinges. I am totally satisfied with the parts, with PartSelect, will keep this site as a reference for further replacement parts if needed, and the oven is positively GORGEOUS after it was thoroughly cleansed of built-up grease. It looks BETTER than a new oven!! THANK YOU, PARTSELECT, for all your help and perfect parts!!

I was able to convince a local mechanic that he could do this after watching it done four times. The most difficult part was unscrewing and taking out the oven to get to the back. He suggested since this has happened everytime I used the self-cleaning feature, that I cut a hole in the wall for easier access (tongue-in-cheek). The most difficult part was dealing with the extended warranty service plan - this is covered, but they could not find a technician to do this. Then I found out they don't pay mileage so who would want to come out to a rural ND ranch to repair an oven?

Turned off the power/ unscrewed the oven from the cabinet and slid it out took the back off the oven and the part was right there. What I would like to know is why this happens so frequently? This is the 2nd time and it always happens after the self cleaning is done.

Turned the circuit breaker off, removed trim and the oven screws, pulled oven out, and placed on a stand in front. Electrical cord was just long enough without disconnecting. Removed the back panel, installed the old thermostat with the new one the same way. Used the same phillips screwdriver for the operation. Installed the oven using reverse order. Turn circuit breaker on, back in business. Prior comments definitely helped me a lot. Thanks.

This site helped me diagnois the problem rating the suggested problem as a 99% chance cause of the problem. Ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat and it arrived in just two days. Repair was quick and easy once getting the oven removed from the cabinet. (It's very heavy so have some assistance or a sturdy stand to set it out on.)#2 Phillips scredriver and needle nose pliers were only tools needed. Overall, an easy repair for anyone.

re thermostat/fuse breakage after cleaning: I replaced the part a 2nd time within a year, both times after a cleaning cycle and after 10 years of no similar problem . This time, when putting the oven back, I cleaned all around the door frame and noticed the exhaust grill was heavily filled with dust strands. It's possible this reduced the exhaust enough to overheat the oven during long high temp cleaning and blow the thermo fuse. Just a thought.

Lower the oven door. Insert the locking hinge pins. Pull the door away from the oven. Remove the 4 screws, 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom, to remove the front panel. Remove the 4 screws that secure each left and right spring. Remove the old springs and install the replacements by reversing the procedure. Remember to purchase 2 springs.

You need to replace both the left and right springs. Open the door completely, . Insert a short screw in each pin hole on each spring bracket.slightly lift the door and pull out. remove the four screws that secure the front panel. Remove the four screws that secure the springs. Install the new springs and replace the front panel. Replace the door assembly into the oven, remove the pins that were shipped with the hinges and you are done.

I followed these instructions put in by a fellow customer. These were very helpful. Just make sure the glass is finger print free before you put it all back together. My time was 30 minutes end to end. =========================== The first thing I did was to remove the oven door by releasing the two latches on the hinges (by hand). I then raised the door toward the vertical position and lifted up. The hinges slide out of the oven housing. I laid the door, inside face up on my island counter top. This ensures that none of the parts will fall when disassembling the door. Next I unscrewed the screws 4 top and bottom and four on the inside face. This releases the frame from the front housing. Lift the frame off the door, exposing the glass pieces. Lift off the broken inside glass and place the new piece in the glass retaining housing. Replace the outside frame and replace all screws. Take door back over to oven and slide hinge bottoms back into slots on oven. Rotate to horizontal position and flip latches back to locked position. Total time was about 10 minutes mainly because I was curious how the door was constructed and I poked around while it was disassembled

I followed the step-by-step instructions from Steve on the part select videos posted on Youtube.

To remove the oven door, you have to slide 2 small nails into the holes in side of the hinges. When you then close the oven door, the nails force the hinges out of the oven box, and the door comes off. Lay the door on a cloth face down, and remove the phillips screws around the perimeter. The door comes apart in layers, with more screws and layers of glass inside. Lay in the new glass, and reassemble. Carry the door over to the oven and push the hinges in hard at the bottom. Lay the door flat to remove the nails. Close the door. Job done.

I found several posts about Whirlpool/KitchenAid ovens having this problem and most of the time this required a replacement of the thermal fuse. Other than the large number of screws to remove the oven and the sheet metal coverings, replacing the fuse was mostly about waiting to get the part. If I had a local dealer with the fuse, I probably could have been baking Deep Dark Chocolate Cheesecake that same evening. Even so, this particular repair should be left to those familiar with doing moderate-level handyman type repairs. You have to make sure the breaker is off and beware of the sharp edges on sheet metal. Fortunately, the fuse was easy to find using online documentation for my model. Part Select was very helpful when my original order did not arrive. Their customer service was great!

Replaced hinges since weak springs were allowing the door to open as the oven heated which would turn on the oven light and give a warning on the control panel. To remove door you need to open the dorr all the way and place a short pin through a hole in the hinge under the hinge point. The pin needs to be short enough that you can get it to pass through the door surround. I cut a short pair of pins from a 16D nail. Place the short pins in the respective hinges and then close the door. Grip the oven door handle and the bottom of the door and lift it free of the oven. Lay the door face down on a towel or blanket. remove three phillips screws from the top of the door and two from the brackets on the bottom of the door. Also can remove the two phillips screws on the door that hold each hinge in place. Seperate the door from the glass and lift out the old hinges. Install the new hinges and reassemble the door. ILift the door back into place. Make sure you install it tight/close to the oven front. Open the door, noting any interference and if it opens freely then open completely and remove the factory installed pins from the hinge and you should be done!