91149485992 Kenmore Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Replace the fuses

Removed the microwave with the buit in housing from the cabinet. Removed microwave from built in housing. Removed outer cabinet giving access to remove control panel and smart board where switches are located. Removed control panel to get to smartboard. Removed smart board after disconnecting a few wires to allow easy removal. Individually removed and then tested each switch using multimeter. Found seondary Door Switch (bottom of smart board) operation to be intermittent (switch trip button extremely loose and rattle inside this particular switch) Ordered replacement part which came very quickly on standard shipping order. Put new switch on smart board and remounted, reinstalled control panel and reconnected various wire connectors previously disconnected. Then plugged in oven and tested for opertation - didn't work at all! But, after bleeding off capacior charge by removing connectors and discharging capacitor to ground, then reassembling control board and smart board into oven, then trying agian, it has worked perfectly ever since. Do not understand why capacitor disconnect/discharge was required but suspect this reset the control electronics. Easy fix and hope to get another 12 years out of this appliance which is used multiple times every day. Also have two other identical micorwave ovens, one is 20 years old, but these get used relatively infrequently.

every thing is working, but no hot

Just like the other responses described with two additional steps: 1) with a convection oven you have to remove the fan cover. It has four screws, the same size as the broiler element screws....but, get a piece of stiff cardboard the same width as the oven; put it all the way back, under the fan cover. There are holes in the oven bottom and your screws really want to roll into those holes and disappear; the cardboard will cover the holes. 2) as soon as you disconnect the element from the electrical wires....put a twist tie or other clamp on each wire as they want to fall back in behind the oven and you'll end up having to remove the build oven to get at the wires. The twist tie should keep them from falling out of reach.

After getting the part from PartSelect, which only took 2 days to get here and was in great condition and matched perfectly. I went to the customers house, shut off the power to the oven, removed the 2 screws holding in the element, pulled the element out and removed the leads. Took the new element and put the leads on the contacts, pushed the wires and leads back into the hole and screwed in the 2 screws. Went outside and turned the breaker back on, went and turned the oven on to broil, waited a few seconds and it heated up perfectly, and the customer was real happy. She said it was great that she could bake again. Thank you guys for sending the right part in a timely manner and good condition, it keeps my customers happy and keeps me in business. Joe

When I got the part I removed the tin cover (two screws)on the back of the range. I removed the sensor by removing the two screws inside the oven and pulled out the sensor. taking the instructions advise, I checked the sensor with my ohm meter and although it read 1.1 ohms as compared with the recommended 1.09 ohms at room temperature in the instructions, went ahead and changed the unit. The connector did not fit my particular model so I spliced the wiring and using the two included wire nuts made the connection. I reinstalled the sensor, reattached the gas line, plugged it in and tried the oven before I put it back in place. The oven works great now and it was super easy.

Just like the directions said. Very simple.

Loosen the two long anchor bolts that screw into the top of the microwave cabinet. These are usually in a shelf or cabinet directly above the microwave. Tilt the microwave forward enough to remove the 2 Phillips head screws from the top of the microwave cabinet. They are near the front. When these two screws are out, remove the fan vent. Once the fan vent is off, remove one screw that holds the control pad in place. Let it hang down. Just to the left of the control pad, you will see wires leading to three switches that close when the door is closed. Use a torx driver to remove the two screws that hold the switch bracket in place. With the bracket out, unplug the wire harnesses. On the opposite side of the wiring connected, a tab holds each switch in place. Lift the tab and slide the switches out. Usually, the bad switch will be identified by a loose or broken spring. Test them by pressing down on the switch. If you notice the bad switch spring, this is usually the bad one. When you have the new one, simply push it back into the appropriate slot and be sure that the holding tab snaps back in place. Plug the wires back in and re-attach the bracket. Put the control pad back on, then the fan vent. When down with those, push on the bottom of the microwave to lift it back into place and tighten the two anchor bolts in the top.

First, unplug microwave. Unscrew two screws at top of microwave, slide grill cover left and remove. This allows access to single screw holding control panel. Remove this screw and lift up control panel to remove. Secondary door switch is black switch at lowest position. The switch is held in place by a lever in back and very hard to get to. Remove the wires plugged into the switch, then remove two screws holding the plastic switch mount that holds all three switches. These screws use a "star" type screwdriver. Once the plastic mount is free, lift it up, right, and tip it slightly to find the lever that will release the black secondary door switch (the lowest switch)...release the broken switch, snap the new switch in its place. Replace the plastic mount by lifting and replacing back into position and replace the two "star" screws. Now, replace the wires onto the new switch, and test operation. Replace control panel, and top grill. It goes faster than it writes...getting the old switch out through that difficult to reach lever was the hardest part...still less than thirty minutes.

The whole job took about 20 min. TURN POWER OFF AT CIRCUIT BREAKER!! Remove 4 screws from the convection cover, then 2 more holding in the broiler element, disconnect 2 wires, and connect to the new one. put the screws back in, the cover back on the convection element and you are done!

Opened the microwave oven door, unscrewed two screws which held the control panel on, then I removed two of the door switches (each had two screws), and then used the continuity tester to see which one was not operating. It turned out to be the secondary door switch, replaced it and to my amazement, the microwave worked. I have never repaired an appliance before but I didn't want to replace our over-the-stove built in microwave. It was the best day ever when it was working again! The hardest part was getting myself to try the repair.

Watched How to repair a Microwave that turns on when the door is opened Video on the web. From this took a shot at the switch was the problem. When I removed the switch it was defective. The small button was in and when you turned the switch upside down the button would drop back into position. Ordered a switch for $25.oo , installed it and the microwave is working fine.

Pulled out old with pliers. Twisted new clips in per instructions.

I tried to unplug old element without success. Called appliance repair man and he pulled part way out, took hold of place where plugged in with pliers and unplugged. While holding back part of plug he plugged in new element--$60.00 later.

Turned off power to oven. Lifted off the oven door. Removed four 1/4 " bolts from outside of fan housing. Removed two 1/4" bolts holding element. Removed element from three clips holding it to upper oven surface. Unplugged two element wires. Reassembly was the reverse. I am an auto mechanic by trade and this was a fairly simple process.