72180839500 Kenmore Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

I replaced the whole component with all three switches in it even though only one switch was bad . Taking out one switch out of the holder unit would probably have damaged the unit that was holding the switches. Easy install and it works great again .

diagnosed defective 'door-shut switch' in the switch holder assembly. rather than replace switch, replaced entire locker holder assembly which made for a very simple and easy repair...not to mention very inexpensive.

Over the stove microwave installed in top cabinet row.
1. Unplug device.
2. Two people to remove from wall/cabinet (remove two, large, top mounting screws and rotate entire microwave down and off the wall mount). Should be some wood spacers between top of device and bottom of cabinet.
3. Remove screws from sheet metal cover.
4. Remove one screw holding blowers in place and rotate out of the way, in order to gain access to 2 of 5 screws that hold the magnetron in place.
5. Unplug magnetron and remove the 5 screws.
6. Drop in new magnetron and re-assemble microwave in reverse order (steps 5-3).
7. Two people restore micro to wall/cabinet. Replace wood spacers, re-install two, large mounting screws (finger-tight). Test device. Secure the two large screws.

Unscrewed one screw that held the bulb cover over the bulb. Removed the cover, removed the bulb, inserted new bulb, replaced cover, replaced the retaining screw.

Not knowing which of the switches to replace I ordered all three in the assembly. Replacing the full assembly was easy, first unplug the microwave. Then remove the top cover to access the screws that hold the control panel in place and let the control panel hang. There are two screws that hold the assembly in place - remove those. I used needle nose pliers to pull the wires off of the switches and immediately put the wires on to the new assembly so there was no confusion on what wire went where. Place the assembly back in position, replace the two screws to hold it in, put control panel in place and secure screws. Replace top cover and plug in.

I unplugged the microwave. I did watch a YouTube video to see how the plastic frame around the door could be removed. I used a putty knife to pry it off. The spring was still in good shape, so I hooked it up to the new latch/locker part and onto the microwave. This was just a little time consuming because I was trying to be careful so I wouldn't break anything on the new part. The plastic frame clicked right back on. I plugged the microwave in and it worked right away. If I can do it, you can do it. Sure beat buying a new microwave. Great experience.

All I needed to do was replace the bulb in our microwave. But, the bulb for this unit (Kenmore Elite, which I traced to being manufactured by LG) was one I had replaced before, several times, with the closest thing I could find at the local big box stores. That bulb type matched (pin size) but wattage was a little lower which I didn't think would be a problem. However, those bulbs burned out in a month or two. So, I ordered bulbs from PartSelect that were OEMs that exactly matched the original specs. So far so good. Be aware if you are replacing a microwave bulb & are not finding an exact match at your local hardware store.

I followed an old appliance repair forums post from 2008 that discussed this exact common issue with this LG model. It took me quite a while to find the info. Then I used the schematic diagrams on your website to find where the part was located inside the microwave. I removed the outer cover. I tested all components including the thermostat for continuity with a multimeter. I discovered there wasn't any continuity in the thermostat so ordered the part and replaced it. Everything works like a charm! Thanks for the great, fast service.

Read the troubleshooting section on this site. Figured it was an interlock problem because the food was not getting hot (magentron not turning on) and the carousel was not turning. Did not think both the carousel motor and magnetron failed at same time, thus indicated an interlock problem. The interlock switches are actuated by the door latch. Replaced the assembly locker piece with all three switches (only a $20 dollar part) and microwave was fully operational again. Wife and kids think I am a hero.

Unplug the microwave. Remove the Philips head and safety Torx head screws along the bottom of the sides and rear of the microwave which hold the black cover on. Lift the cover up at the rear and slide it backwards to disengage the tabs on the front top. Remove the cover. Discharge the capacitor by shorting the terminals to each other and then ground. Do this with a well insulated object and be aware there may be a pop when you do this. Keep hands, etc. on the insulated part of the object (screwdriver handle, etc). There's a lot of stored energy in that capacitor. I'd advise first checking the diode to make sure its not bad. Replace it if it is. The Magnatron is held in with a couple of screws on the top and sides. Unplug the connector and remove the screws. Remove the Magnatron. Installation is the reverse of removal.

After checking all three switches for continuity I determined that the plastic door lever had warped or gone out of wack. After shutting off power at the breaker box I removed the door, the inside trim piece around the inside of the glass. Removed the black two prong door lever, reattached the new door lever and then reinstalled the trim piece and all screws. Works fine now. Easy fix just make sure your switches are all ok then replace the door lever.

Unplugged the microwave. I opened the door. I used a butter knife to pop the bezel off the inside of the door. I pushed the locker up and to the left and used the butter knife to pry it loose. Disconnected the locker from the spring, and reversed for the installation.

I took the cover off and just put the new charcoal filter in

You Tube

tested cap. with ohm meter which showed a short. A new HV cap., a fuse and it is working fine again.