JHP62GN2 General Electric Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...) discovering a burnt spot in the element sent me searching for a new one. I couldn't find any locally, so I continued my search to the internet. This is when I came in contact with PartsSelect.com .
They made identifing the part and ordering so easy it was unbelievable. Super fast deliverey astounded me as well. The installation of the new element was reverse of the old. All of the dimensions and info for the part were right there on this site. Thanks

Turned the range/oven off at the breaker box. Pulled all the racks out. Unscrewed two screws holding lower heating element in. Pulled the heating element out to expose connections. Unhooked connections, plugged in new element. Replaced the screws. Turned breaker back one. Pretty simple!

DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR UNTIL THE RANGE IS UNPLUGGED AND THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IS OFF!!!!!!

Very easy repair, but, either there is a minor amount of current flowing through the element at all times, or the off switch wasn't working when I started. didn't turn the breaker off, after I removed the nuts, as I was pulling the element to reveal the terminals, the terminals arc'd on the oven wall. BIG SPARKS!

After I turned the breaker off and started again. No problems.

Snapped in the clip

I first removed oven glass panel from frame by removing three screws which secured it to the frame. I then removed the spacer and handle mounts with a 1/4 inch nut driver. This is the only tool that worked for the application. Using an oen wrench or a rachet without a long extension would have taken much more time. Then reattached new handle using existing screws and resecured oven dorr glass to the frame.

One thing to look at is the old handle bracket vs. new bracket. The old bracket had metal threaded inserts to secure the mounting screws. The new handle is all plastic. This said, the existing screws might not work for the application and may split the plastic mounting bracket if it is over tightened. In my case they worked fine but, it is just something to think about.

This was so easy I should be a repairman! Turned off power at the breaker, used socket to unscrew two hex head screws, pulled out element slowly from the back of oven wall - enough to expose the wires about 3". Used pliers to remove clips from terminals, put new element in, pushed on new terminal clips, fed wires and terminals back through the two holes, replaced the hex head screws, turned breaker on and wallah! My wife was happy! That's a good thing.

I was able to remove the heating element but in the process one of the wires fell behind the back wall of the oven so I needed a little help getting it out. It was my first time working with electricity. If this didn't happen the repair would have been quit easy. The instructions were great.

The burners were not level and would heat more on one side than the other. Since the range was 21 years old and would cost a lot to replace, I decided to replace the burners and
treat myself to new drip bowls. I Googled and got the information on the range including part numbers. I ordered them and am very happy. It was very easy to replace the old ones. Only problem the large drip bowl was dented but on sending an email to compamy, a new one is being sent. I am very happy at the ease since I am a retired widow of 76 years old. It pays some time to take care of the old and do a little reapair instead of spending a lot of money on relacement when every thing else is in excellent condition.
Thanks for making this a very easy experience.

I used a socket set to remove broiler element. It was stiff after so many years, but no problem. All was going well until I pulled too hard on the old element(I'd recommend jiggling if stuck, not yanking) & 1 of the 2 connectors pulled loose & fell behind the back. After my initial panic, I summoned my courage, unscrewed the coverings in the upper back of the stove, found the lost connection, pushed the new element ends through the holes from inside the oven (easiest way to hook it up at this point), plugged it in from the back, pushed it back thru into place inside the oven, reattached everything (front & back), & it worked PERFECTLY! Had I not made a mess of it, it would have taken approx. 5-10 minutes. As it was, it took approx. 15 minutes. EASY!

Disconnect power. . . Remove control panel, pull wire connectors,[note location] remove old switch, install new, install wires, snip stem to length, set knob . . . Turn on power - works. [Note this is a live part even when not connected]

Simply inserted the clip into the hole in the oven. It took less than 20 seconds. :D

i was really pleased getting the order from partselect. i had torn my oven appart and knew i needed just this one part i came home and ordered it from parts select and actually got the part the next day.... very nice.... so pleased

remove two screws slide out. slide new one in. put two screws back. done.

Ever the optimist, I'd replaced the burner on this relic of another time to no effect. That left the switch. You guys should know that when a burner element goes bad it can take out the switch. I should have put a meter on it. Wehn I looked for a replacement a few months ago there were still factory parts available, but they were $80 or so and I wasn't inclined to risk that on a 40 year old range. I offered to replace the raange for my daughter as a Christmas present but she like this old thing. It was an unusual size with a pan storage compartment on the left. I went on line and found this universal replacement for about $25 delivered. What the heck. I ordered it and it arrived within a week. I pulled the stove out, killed the breaker, pulled the knob off, used a nut driver to take ther rear panel off, two phillips screws under the knob hold the switch in. The terminals on the old switch are in a slightly different order but are clearly marked L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. The P is the power and has a smaller terminal so you can't put it on the wrong one. Just examine the old switch ( it was marked the same way) take off the L1 and put in on the L1 of the new switch and so on, make sure you use the correct knob adapter to fit your old knob and break the switch stem to the correct length. It will break easilly if you hold it with one pliers and break it with another. Screw the new switch in place with he old screws. At this point, I closed the breakers and tested it. It worked fine. I turned the breakers off again. Buttoned it up and slid the stove back into place. 20 minutes tops. Great product. Good for another forty years.

I ordered the replacement clips from this site and they arrived in a timely manner. The clips were perfect, but due to the age of the oven, the holes had elongated and the new clips kept falling out also. I modified the clips by widening the tips with a pair of pliers. They are holding just fine. I don't think the older clips could've withstood the modification.