JT965BF6BB General Electric Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Simply remove the broken turntable roller guide from the rotor and put in the new replacement -- less time than opening the box!

This was as easy as it gets. The whole process took seconds to complete. Simply remove the old roller and install the new one. It was wonderfully easy.

Removed the above stove microhood. Removed the side panels & the top panel. Diode located on right hand side of microwave. Removed with screwdriver & replaced new diode. It's best to get the microwave schematic online to pinpoint location of the part.

Just like the directions said. Very simple.

PartSelect had helpful repair instructions on-line which made the repair easier and faster. Unfortunately, there were other problems with the oven that immediately blew the new fuse I had just installed. It was then determined that additional repair would most likely cost almost as much as a new microwave.

A slam-dunk...just replaced the old roller guide with the new one. Simpler than replacing a light bulb and no tools required.

turned oven off, pulled oven out from wall, removed back of oven, unscrewed sensor from oven replaced with new sensor, put back on, turned power to oven on, tried oven at 425, my temp. gage and the oven temp matched. a very easy fix.

plug in thermistor when needed

opened the microwave door, removed the glass plate, removed the bad roller quide, replaced with the new one, replaced the glass plate and then closed the door. :)

it was a simple screw in on both ends. no soldering

Lifted up the glass plate. Put in the new roller guide. Set the glass plate back in place. Repair done in about 30 seconds! Thanks for prompt service in sending the new part. My only regret is that the part was expensive, and I have already replaced it once before. The new part is still plastic so will probably need to be replaced again.

pull out defective seal with pliers clean area and press new seal into place making sure the spring clips on seal are completely inserted into door slots push ends of seal into holes in bottom of door

First of all, the sensor had the proper ohm reading...at ambient temperatures. I suspected the sensor because it would jump in large degree increments over 200°F. From what I read online, the only other part that would cause this was a faulty circuit board. I opted to try the $20 part first vs. the $200 part. It worked. One screw on the back top of the inside is all that holds the sensor in. Pull the wires out and you will find a quick-disconnect. New part had the same connector (thank you). Thread the wires back through the hole and replace the screw. Works like a champion (verified with an independent thermometer. That is all she wrote. I only wish I purchased two, since they don't last that long... 4 years...or so. I just bought the house built in 2007 and empty for a year... and it took 45 minutes to cook a pizza, and even then the bottom dough was light. A house without an oven is like a hot dog without mustard!

Took about 15 minutes to take the old one off and put the new one on. Not difficult at all.

Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the replacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."