JTP86WF2WW General Electric Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

I opened oven and pushed oven rack inside.

Very easy, only small issue was the holes for the two self taping screws were a bit high, so I had to drill two new holes to complete repair... Still a very simple repair.

Removed two screws, removed two wires, installed new element. So easy a caveman could do it.

First of all, the sensor had the proper ohm reading...at ambient temperatures. I suspected the sensor because it would jump in large degree increments over 200°F. From what I read online, the only other part that would cause this was a faulty circuit board. I opted to try the $20 part first vs. the $200 part. It worked. One screw on the back top of the inside is all that holds the sensor in. Pull the wires out and you will find a quick-disconnect. New part had the same connector (thank you). Thread the wires back through the hole and replace the screw. Works like a champion (verified with an independent thermometer. That is all she wrote. I only wish I purchased two, since they don't last that long... 4 years...or so. I just bought the house built in 2007 and empty for a year... and it took 45 minutes to cook a pizza, and even then the bottom dough was light. A house without an oven is like a hot dog without mustard!

just slipped it in

Identified part with Part Select, placed order. Opened the power breaker for the oven. Removed oven door (slides off) to improve access, removed burnt element (2 screw and 2 electrical blade terminals). Installed the new element and tested. Reattached oven door.

I unplugged the defective plug and replaced it with the new one. Took 5 min total

Easily glide in.

Turned off the circuit breaker. Removed 5 screws. Unplugged the heating element and then plugged in the new one and replaced the 5 screws. Very simple.

Remove the microwave cover. Requires a phillips screwdriver and a torx security bit/nut driver (there are two security type screws on the back...guess they don't want you to do this at home!). I had to buy the a security bit set (about $7). The diode is easily accessible on the right side under the fan. Requires removing on small phillips screw and unplugging on electrical connection. GE provides some instructions in an envelope on top (after cover removed). There is a warning/instruction to discharge the capacitor before service. This was not a problem for me. Actual diode replacement took 30 seconds. Whole job = 15 minutes.

I was attempting to replace the broiler element on the oven, but I discovered that the wiring may be the actual problem. I suggest before you order parts for a broiler repair, that you test the wires to ensure that you have continuity. I will have to trace the wires back to the source (the other element works fine) and see if I can find the problem with the current. I will keep the broiler element I ordered until I can confirm that the old element works.

The repair was very simple. In fact the biggest challenge was finding the correct socket set.

Replaced the Oven light housing. Unscrewed the two screws that hold the housing in place. Pulled out the housing and disconnected the wire tabs from the light housing tabs. Slid the wire tabs onto the tabs of the new light housing fixture. (Each tab is fitted to the tab in goes on so they can not be mixed up) Pushed the housing fixture back into place and screwed the housing into place.

Took about 15 minutes to take the old one off and put the new one on. Not difficult at all.

I think I could have managed with just the diode but since I had to pull it I decided to replace all related parts per my research. The Magnetron more than likely was fine.