JT965WF2WW General Electric Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

1. Turn off breaker
2. Remove grill that around built in microwave; remove two top screws and to bottom (open oven door).
3. Remove two screws on the control panel.
4. Swing out and allow panel to suspend from its wire holder.
5. Trace the two harness cables from the old control board and disconnect from the counterparts inside the unit.
6. Remove the "ribbon" connector (do not damage, be gentle)
7. Remove the four screws holding the old control in place.
8. Place the new control board in place (do not connect the ribbon connector yet).
9. Plug in the harness to their respective receiving locations in the unit.
10. Install the "ribbon" connector into the new control panel.
11. Reverse steps 4-1 above ensuring all connections are solid and made correctly.
12. Turn on the circuit breaker and enjoy a "like new" oven!

removed the glass turning plate. removed the broken roller guide. replaced with the new one. I am very happy with not only the ease of fixing the problem, but how quickly I got the replacement part. I will use PartSelect again!!! And I will tell my friends.

Very fast very easy. Part was exact match!

Turn the glass enclosure counterclockwise to expose bulb.Turn the power off at circuit breaker panel.Handle the bulb carefully with paper towel covering the bulb.Push the bulb in socket.replace glass enclosure,turn power back on.

Replaced the fuse. Result; did not fix the problem.

Replaced it

Replace the fuses

Remove the microwave cover. Requires a phillips screwdriver and a torx security bit/nut driver (there are two security type screws on the back...guess they don't want you to do this at home!). I had to buy the a security bit set (about $7). The diode is easily accessible on the right side under the fan. Requires removing on small phillips screw and unplugging on electrical connection. GE provides some instructions in an envelope on top (after cover removed). There is a warning/instruction to discharge the capacitor before service. This was not a problem for me. Actual diode replacement took 30 seconds. Whole job = 15 minutes.

I was attempting to replace the broiler element on the oven, but I discovered that the wiring may be the actual problem. I suggest before you order parts for a broiler repair, that you test the wires to ensure that you have continuity. I will have to trace the wires back to the source (the other element works fine) and see if I can find the problem with the current. I will keep the broiler element I ordered until I can confirm that the old element works.

Opened the control panel removed the push button and installed the new one. Please make sure to turn the power off from the circuit breaker before opening the panel.

Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the replacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."

Turned off the circuit breaker. Removed 5 screws. Unplugged the heating element and then plugged in the new one and replaced the 5 screws. Very simple.

Took about 15 minutes to take the old one off and put the new one on. Not difficult at all.

This was a wall mounted oven. Turned off breaker. Pulled panel off by removing 6 screws. Pulled connectors off old switch. Removed old switch. Just a friction fit. I used my jack knife to get it moving. Pushed in the new switch and connected wires. (just push on tabs) Put panel back together and turned on breaker. Done, easy.

First of all, the sensor had the proper ohm reading...at ambient temperatures. I suspected the sensor because it would jump in large degree increments over 200°F. From what I read online, the only other part that would cause this was a faulty circuit board. I opted to try the $20 part first vs. the $200 part. It worked. One screw on the back top of the inside is all that holds the sensor in. Pull the wires out and you will find a quick-disconnect. New part had the same connector (thank you). Thread the wires back through the hole and replace the screw. Works like a champion (verified with an independent thermometer. That is all she wrote. I only wish I purchased two, since they don't last that long... 4 years...or so. I just bought the house built in 2007 and empty for a year... and it took 45 minutes to cook a pizza, and even then the bottom dough was light. A house without an oven is like a hot dog without mustard!