PT970SM4SS General Electric Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Removed the oven door for easy acces to oven. Unscrewed (philips screwdriver) the screw holding temp sensor in place. Gently pulled the wiring until quick connector was located. Pushed down on locking level on quick connect while holding other end of wiring (so wiring would not fall back behind oven). Connected the new sensor and screwed back in place. Reinstalled oven door. Tested temperature settings by turning on oven and comparing with a separate oven thermometer.

This did not fix my problem. I've ordered a new microwave.

First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.

The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.

The switches are not the problem! The problem is in the tolerences of the latch housing. I have ordered two new housings (Upper & Lower) and will see if the tolerences are closer. If not I will try epoxying a shim to the plate that operates the microswitches. The other option is to file the mounting slots of the housing to allow adjustment, which would be iffy,keeping them from moving with use. The exploded drawings really need to be clarified. The scale is way too small. It was extremely difficult to pick out the individual parts of the mechanisiam.

Went to onlin source, found a couple youtube videos then went to the GE site which had a not-too-easy that find trouble shooting guide. It was extremely helpful as it described a fuse as a fix 80% of the time for touch paid failure. I really didn't believe it would b a fuse, but it was the cheapest fix, $8. I got the fuse and was surprised to fine there are two of them on this model. I took a guess and replaced the top one ( neither fuse was black or burned to indicate a failure but the top one was a bit mor greyish). put it all back together and it works fine.

took off upper grille and touch pad and removed the old line fuse and replaced with a new fuse ...turned on it is working fine...sources of help: UTube and GE manuel

All electrical worked (fan, lights, control panel) door switch was broke. Pulled the oven out. Took out two big screws from the cabinet above. (be careful not to drop oven)Set the oven on kitchen counter. Took off five screws that held the vent cover. Removed vent cover. Took out one screw that held the control panel. Lifted, turned and slid the panel into the space below so I could get to the upper door switch. Replace door switch and re-assemble.

After reviewing the potential causes for the error code, I decided I'd try to change out the temp sensor. Using the ohmeter, I saw the difference immediately between the old and new sensor. The sensor is accessed from the back of the stove, and must be slide out to gain access to the rear panel. Since the stove I have is a built in, removing the stove and the access panel was the hardest part of this repair. Resetting the glass control panel was also a bit tricky to calibrate the touch sensitive buttons. Good luck.

Took cover off, noted the two side by side switches easily visible and we hought one of these was responsible. Then son noted a third switch at the top of the plastic assembly which inserts at an odd angle. When it was inspected signs of a previous short showed up with burnt contact points. Reinserted at same odd angle as there were guide holes, closed things up and oven worked 100%. Great prompt service and great website!! We will use you again

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

Primary door switch was shorted and blew the fuse when the oven was plugged in. Replaced primary door interlock switch.

took of cover removed switch and replaced with new one

Pull the old one put in the new one ... took about 20 minutes

I removed the unit from the wall removed the top two screws holding the panel above the door I the two screws holding the control panel removed the three switchs I found the top one to be blown and replaced it

Removed control panel first then removed bracket holding door switches 8 screws total very easy fix ????