PT970SM2SS General Electric Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Very easy to remove the parts and to reassemble

Took the oven door off and removed the inner door panel, put new glass assembly part in and reassembled. The hard part was getting the door hinges locked back into place.

This item worked as described. I paid more for this 'oem' probe than the generic 1 because i didn't want to chance it not working as others have reported.
- works great. tested it....snaps in, reads correctly, snaps out.

Ordered the part and pressed it on spindle.

I checked various sites on the net and decided that the temperature sensor was the problem. The GE price for the replacement part was about $105, most of the other sites offered the sensor in the $70 range. PartSelect $12.95 When the part arrived, I removed a small self taping screw, pulled the high temperature wire connector into the oven space, disconnected the quick disconnect fitting, attached the new temperature sensor, pushed the connecting wire into its hole, replaced the screw and that was it. I probably saved about $200 in parts and labor over what a local repairman would have charged. Oh yes!! I first disconnected the power at the breaker box. Very important.

Simply removed the cracked Guide Roller after finding that there was no way to repair the piece. Upon receipt of the part via FedEx it was a simple matter putting the new part in place. Things work fine.

Purchased a new roller guide, simply dropped it in to place and the problem was solved. It took longer to open the box than it took to make the repair. Quick and easy.

I have a double oven and coincidently I had to replace the two Oven Light Assemblies.
I am really glad about your web site because once I got the number from my oven model you guys were the first ones that came up. Thanks to your prompt and reliable service my oven is back to its original state.

Jose Figueroa

1) Shut off power to oven
2) Removed oven door using snap down hinges on door
3) Removed 4-phillips head screws holding the oven frame to cabinets
4) Pulled oven out of cabinet and set it on stool in front of opening
5) Remove 2-hex screws holding metal shield covering the electrical wiring on back of oven
6) Unplugged bad thermostat connector
7) Removed the single hex screw holding thermostat inside the oven
8) Pulled the thermostat and lead wire from oven
9) Fed the new thermostat wire into inside back of oven
10) Reverse steps 1-7

Removed torx screws for door handle as well as torx screws for both hinges to separate the door halves to extract broken glass and to install new glass panel. Other reviews said not to remove hinge screws, however I had no problem reinstalling them.

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

twisted it in place

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

Sensor is in rear and on top ov oven. What could be a 10" job took 45". My problem was the oven door was diffinately in the way. Also I wear bifocals which makes me tilt head to see nuts. I felt like a contortionist. HINT: remove door and give yourself some room to work.

Removing the oven from the wall to rest on 2 chairs was pretty easy. After that, if I only had to replace the convection heating element at the back of the oven, it would have been a snap.

However, getting access to the main heating element on the bottom of the oven was really difficult. There were no instructions to follow, so one can only look at what is available for similar units online, but my attempts to remove the inner oven shroud on my 14yo wall oven could not be done without major bending.

So, I tried to get to the bottom heating element by removing the bottom of the oven, only to find there to be another layer and another layer, and then insulation that wrapped around the sides below that after taking off the sides.

By the time I finally got to the bottom heating element on my old oven, my patience was gone and I decided the jigsaw puzzle created by this vain effort was not worth putting back together. Better to opt for new technology.

While PartSelect is easy to work with, had I known this project was going to be super difficult, I would never have tried to take the old oven apart. Some engineer needs to be spanked over that design.

Lesson learned on replacing the lower heating element on a wall oven where the unit has to be completely disassembled, don't.

The money spent on freight, fees, and return postage will be chalked up to experience.