JTP28SK2SS General Electric Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

First of all, there are FOUR panes of glass on the oven door and two different sizes. Make sure you're ordering the right pane. We initially got the wrong one and had to return/reorder.

Took door off hinges and set on table. Removed almost all screws. Two at the top are very long and almost spring loaded -- this was helpful when putting it back together.
When removing the layers, keep track of what/where screws are placed. Some are star-hole-head, some are hex-head (socket). Work slowly and carefully so as not to break additional panes of glass. Leave plenty of room in your workspace to set items aside while you get to the innermost part of the door.

For this part #, it's deep in the door layers and surrounded by fiberglass. Wear gloves so you're not itchy later. This part acts as a double-pane with a narrow aluminum frame around the two pieces of glass. Be careful not to bend the frame when removing the broken piece. One corner of the frame also has a hook-n-hole closure. Take care to not bend the hook too much.

We wiped all the glass pieces off to get all fingerprints, smudges, and baked-on foods removed. Then we put the pieces/parts back -- a lot like a puzzle. Had the oven back up and running with no problems. It may take two people to get the door back on the hinges just because of the weight and awkward position they need to clamp back together.

Replaced new light housing.
Thanks to you guys for the prompt response

This is a pretty easy job. Took 20 min. because I was especially careful. Once the new element arrived, I simple shot off the power (DO THAT, BE SURE TO DO THAT ). Two 5/16 screws hold the element in place at the rear of the oven. Once removed the element can move forward. A surprise was that wires attached to the element come with it. There are simple push on connections on the element. There were a little difficult to remove (heat I am sure ), but a couple of needle nose plyers and the two wires removed with ease. Plug in the new element connectors and push the wires and the connection back into place. Once in place, reinstall the screws and test.

Unbolted temperature sensor from back of oven. Disconnect cable connector. Replaced and reconnected new sensor and bolted back in place. Haven’t had to replace bake element yet, but it’s a major job being this GE Profile oven has the bake element hidden. That’s a new one on me.

Used a nut driver to remove element the insulation was tight and pulled the wires off before they came out of the oven. I made a small hook out of a coat hanger and pulled the wires through the opening.

Simple job. Disconnected the power to the oven, removed the two screws holding the old lower element, pulled it out and disconnected the two electrical wires. Installed the new one by simply reversing the removal process. Very impressed with PartSelect on price and delivery. My local repair company wanted to charge me twice the price and a part delivery time three times longer. Will definitely use PS in future

Easy

basically unscrew two screws, unplug, plug new one in and screw the screws back in.

Before you get started on this be sure that you already have the Bottom Cabinet Trim Assembly (item #PS952490) either ordered or installed. We were not aware that you had to order both trim items separately which meant we had to remove the oven door twice. Using the screwdriver to pull back the door tabs, we first removed the oven door. The trim installed very easy. We just lined up the holes, pushed in, and then down on the trim to lock it in place. When reinstalling the oven door, be sure that door latches are almost fully extended before reinserting them into their slots.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I plugged in the new element and proceeded to clean the oven which is what I was doing when the problem occured.

pull out defective seal with pliers clean area and press new seal into place making sure the spring clips on seal are completely inserted into door slots push ends of seal into holes in bottom of door

First of all, the sensor had the proper ohm reading...at ambient temperatures. I suspected the sensor because it would jump in large degree increments over 200°F. From what I read online, the only other part that would cause this was a faulty circuit board. I opted to try the $20 part first vs. the $200 part. It worked. One screw on the back top of the inside is all that holds the sensor in. Pull the wires out and you will find a quick-disconnect. New part had the same connector (thank you). Thread the wires back through the hole and replace the screw. Works like a champion (verified with an independent thermometer. That is all she wrote. I only wish I purchased two, since they don't last that long... 4 years...or so. I just bought the house built in 2007 and empty for a year... and it took 45 minutes to cook a pizza, and even then the bottom dough was light. A house without an oven is like a hot dog without mustard!

just slipped it in

turned oven off, pulled oven out from wall, removed back of oven, unscrewed sensor from oven replaced with new sensor, put back on, turned power to oven on, tried oven at 425, my temp. gage and the oven temp matched. a very easy fix.

nothing to it.