JBV42G*01 General Electric Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

1) Took photo of original wiring behind original clock. 2) Marked up wiring instructions for new clock with wire colors. 3) Marked wire colors next to posts on new clock. 4) Removed old clock and its metal mounting bracket. 5) Installed new clock onto old mounting bracket.PROBLEM: The holes in the glass facade of oven are shifted about 1/4" off from the pushbuttons on the new clock. 6) Remove bracket and enlarged holes by 1/4" sideways. This includes shifting the holes for the oven light pushbutton switches, and the four "racetrack" holes where the bracket attaches to the oven. Plug wires into new clock, using extender wires provided as needed. Labelled extender wires with their "colors". POWER UP. The clock works, and the "Timed Bake" works. However, the Self-Cleaning of the oven cannot be started, because the latch level cannot be moved to the right (locked ) position. This leaves us unsatisfied, as restoration of Self-Cleaning was the reason we decided to replace the oven clock.

Good directions

Plugged it in. It fit!

The original controls were different for the small burners and the large burners. The replacement part fits all. Before removing wires, pay attention to writing on new and old control and replace 1 at a time. The hardest part was being sure to cut the knob stem to the correct length. Control works well.

I read parts select instructions and i was done in less than 30 minutes. Since 1988, this is the 1st. part that I had to replace. I now have parts select on my favorites list.

slid the range away from wall. disconnect power. removed back,compared switches and marked wires.installed new switch and wires.the adapter for the control knob was a problem it left the knob out futher than original i had to modify the plastic adapter and got it close enought! the most time spent was cleaning up the floor before putting the range back.

I bought the replacement element for my 98-year-old aunt, and she installed it.

Just plugged it in! Very easy.

Remove oven door, removed Phillips head screws on perimeter of oven chamber, loosened four or five square head screws to facilitate the removal of the old gasket, (this gave enough room/play to pry the oven chamber slightly) then removed the old gasket, and re-assembled the oven, and replaced the door.

lift up to 45 degree angle and pull towards you. This one went bad and the contacts welded themselves together. Took some shifting and tugging to free it. Normally, they slide in and out effortlessly, like any plug.

This is twin oven range with controls at side of upper oven. Control panel was fastened with screws at top and bottom. Range has built-in hood at top which had to be disassembled to reach top screw. Once had access to top screw, eaisly removed control panel and replaced control. New control had identical connections as old control so only had to install it, break shaft to correct length, and use proper shaft adapter for knob. Remounted control panel and range worked perfectly. This would have been a very quick job except for having to deal with the built-in range hood.

(Turn off the Power) Pull stove out, remove the 2 screws that holds switch in place, remove one wire at a time and install on new switch. Slip switch in replace 2 screws. Snap off about 3/4 of the shaft cut down plastic insert for knob, install knob turn on power and it works.

Took oven door apart to get to gasket. . . Took about an hour or less. Then I basically cleaned the entire over door while I waited for the part to come. When the new gasket came I started to put it back on. I used springed type clothes pins to hold the gasket in place on the middle part of the door which hold the glass. As I put on the out part of the oven door over the middle part of the oven door, I carefully took the pins off as I gradually slipped the 2 parts of oven door back together. After the gaskets were carefully adjusted to it's proper position, then I put the nut screw back in through the gasket holes to hold the 2 oven door parts back together. Then, I finally put the rest of the door back together. This took about an hour also. Not to bad when you have to do this by your selves. This is the second time I've put in a new oven gasket. The oven is 28 years old, so the gaskets last me about 14 years each time. We hope to keep the oven a few more year before we buy a new glass top style stove. Hope this was helpfull to all you diy's !!! Don

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.