JTP85BA1BB General Electric Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Took back panel off unplugged sensor and replugged in and worked like a charm!Sears wanted $400 and was going to 'overrepair"Got the 60 dollar part on here. UPS shipped to wrong address and customer service refunded my shipping and was excellent! would definetly use again!thanks

Before you get started on this be sure that you already have the Bottom Cabinet Trim Assembly (item #PS952490) either ordered or installed. We were not aware that you had to order both trim items separately which meant we had to remove the oven door twice. Using the screwdriver to pull back the door tabs, we first removed the oven door. The trim installed very easy. We just lined up the holes, pushed in, and then down on the trim to lock it in place. When reinstalling the oven door, be sure that door latches are almost fully extended before reinserting them into their slots.

Replaced the fuse. Result; did not fix the problem.

Replace the fuses

I ordered a replacement glass from PartSelect and after i received the glass, I removed the oven door and placed it on a sturdy table. Then i removed the screws around the outer frame and lifted the door apart. I then cleaned out the remaining glass shreds from the frame and placed the new glass into position in the frame. I then replaced the screws back into the outer frame and placed the door back onto the oven.

Replaced the Oven light housing. Unscrewed the two screws that hold the housing in place. Pulled out the housing and disconnected the wire tabs from the light housing tabs. Slid the wire tabs onto the tabs of the new light housing fixture. (Each tab is fitted to the tab in goes on so they can not be mixed up) Pushed the housing fixture back into place and screwed the housing into place.

Feedback on site warned me that broiler element is only connected to oven wiring with press-on spade lugs rather than screws. Even with care I managed to 'lose' a wire and had to retrieve it with section of stiff coat-hanger wire bent into a hook. Coming off that experience, I soldered the spade terminals together before reassembly to avoid a repeat. New element, however, failed to rectify problem. Professional technician found main control unit defective -- a $300 part including installation, but at least GE still has it available. My advice to others in this situation is to remove old element before ordering a replacement, and test with meter to see if it's defective. It may or may not be worth going beyond an element replacement to you.

The part was just like the old one and would have been an easy fix except our range suffered from a lighting hit. The clips had melted together. Called a dealer and asked about a new wiring harness. He said in those cases just cut the clip off and hard wire with wire clips,or firecrackers. We used wire nuts and taped all together and the oven works just great. Nothing is ever as easy as it should be.

This repair was quite a bit more difficult then what had been described on the web site. First off, I have a double wall oven that is built in. Sliding it out of the cabinet was difficult and because oven was hard wired, I had to disconnect the actual wiring from the oven back. . Positioning the oven and allowing for it to rest on a support bench was the most difficult part The oven is heavy. Eventually, removing the back and top panels of the oven revealed the sensor connection. I was then able to feed it through the oven and reconnect all the wiring harnesses.. Getting the oven back in the cabinet was equally a challenge. But it did seem to fix the problem with over heating.

I unscrewed the four bottom phillip screws to loosen the rail where the glass sits. Then I loosened the two side screws that hold the door handle and I was able to move the upper rail just enough to be able to slide the glass panel where it goes. I then aligned the glass panel making sure it was secured on the bottom and upper rails. I put back the screws and tighten them to keep the panel from moving. It was a very simple part to install. Thanks for your quick delivery.

First unplugged the microwave, took top grill off, took control panel off, took wires off and used color coded tape to make sure they went back in right places, took fuse out and replaced it and put every thing back and it all worked fine and to top it off my wife did it all. So it was pretty easy.

I shut off power to the microwave, discharged the Hi-voltage capaciator and disconnected the wires to it, then removed the screw and bracket that held the capaciator in place. After removing and replacing the capaciator, reattaching wires and mounting bracket, and replacing the 15amp fuse, the microwave woked fine.

I ordered the oven rack on a Tuesday and received it the very next day - was wowed at the service.

Replaced lower heating element by first turning off power at breaker box. Secondly, removing the two 1/4 " screws and slowly pulling the element forward exposing the two connections. Pull the element gently until you separate the heating element fromthe clips.Gently insert the new element into the clips and replace into the oven housing and secure with the two 1/4" nuts. Turn power on at the electrical box.

Easily glide in.