JKP85BA3BB General Electric Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions
Jump to:
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- John from Durham, NC
- Parts Used:
- WB44K5009
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
element burned out
It's so simple most people could mannage the repair. Turn oven off. Remove oven door and shelves. Use a nut driver to remove mounting screws. Pliers to pull quick connect terminated wires off element terminals. Use pliers to push connectors onto new element,wires may connect to either terminal. Nut driver for screws to mechanically mount new element. Replace shelves and door. First time element gets hot it will burn off oils and dirt, not a problem but do it now not later.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- David from SALISBURY, CT
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9719
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
The old single heating element support clips came loose over time.
I ordered the replacement clips from this site and they arrived in a timely manner. The clips were perfect, but due to the age of the oven, the holes had elongated and the new clips kept falling out also. I modified the clips by widening the tips with a pair of pliers. They are holding just fine. I don't think the older clips could've withstood the modification.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Mark from Hanover Park, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB24X829
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Microwave appeared to work. Fan worked, timer worked plate rotated. It just didn't heat the food!
I purchased the fuse and 3 door switches from PartSelect. Replaced the fuse first but that did not solve the problem. Then I replaced the 3 door switches and problem solved!! So fuse only cost $5.00 so glad I have a new fuse in there as well. To see how to replace door switches see videos on utube!!
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Victoria from San Jose, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB44K5009
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Replace the heating coil in convection oven
[1] squirted LiquidWrench on the 4 screws holding the convection fanblade rear cover in place. Used a socket and rachet to remove screws; the loosener really helped after 10+ years.
[2] the broken heating element was easy to remove. The two spade connectors however didn't have much free length;these wires wanted to retreat back into the rear oven wall.
[3] So i put a small binder clip from my desk supplies on each spade end, this left the connectors where I could grab them.
[4]I used needle-nose pliers to firmly crimp the the spade connectors onto the new heating element; couldn't have made a firm placement with fingertip pressure alone.
[5] I cleaned the oven door hinge area, oven bulb area, and other hard to reach spots with Simple Green and wipes.
[2] the broken heating element was easy to remove. The two spade connectors however didn't have much free length;these wires wanted to retreat back into the rear oven wall.
[3] So i put a small binder clip from my desk supplies on each spade end, this left the connectors where I could grab them.
[4]I used needle-nose pliers to firmly crimp the the spade connectors onto the new heating element; couldn't have made a firm placement with fingertip pressure alone.
[5] I cleaned the oven door hinge area, oven bulb area, and other hard to reach spots with Simple Green and wipes.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Lois from El Segundo, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB24X829
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Microwave would turn on when door opened
Unscrewed numerous screws holding the "body/shell" to the microwave. Removed body. I then unplugged top door switch, replaced it with new one, and "tested" the new one. I fixed our $400 convection micro with an $18 switch. NICE!
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- James from Hedgesville, WV
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9719
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
heating element clap broke off
All I had to do was pop the clamp on the top part of the heating element and push the clamp into the hole.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Becky from Piedmont, MO
- Parts Used:
- WB44K5009
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
unit burnt out no broiler
took old unit and measured it part select made it easy for me ordered new unit and installed easily and quick thanks to quick service and shipping
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- HIDDEN HILLS from TONASKET, WA
- Parts Used:
- WB44K5009
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
TOP OVEN BROILER ELEMENT BURNED OUT & BROKE
1) TURNED OFF THE POWER TO THE OVEN. 2) REMOVED THE TOP DOOR AND RACKS. 3) REMOVED THE 2- 1/4 HEAD HEX NUTS AND PULLED THE ELEMENT FORWARD ENOUGH TO EXPOSE THE ELECTRICAL CLIPS TO THE ELEMENT. REMOVED THE CLIPS WITH A PAIR OF NEEDLE NOSE AS ADDED GRIP. 4) PUT THE WIRE CLIPS ON THE NEW ELEMENT AND REVERSED THE ABOVE PROCEDURES.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Microwave wouldn’t shut off when door was opened
Followed the online videos to enter the cavity to the switch holder. Noticed right away the dreaded capacitor was in back right corner behind where the touch pad had been removed. I isolated the capacitor with an old computer mouse pad for extra safety. Took some manipulations to get the switch mount out from behind the wire bundles. Once out front, easy to use small flat blade screwdriver to release each switch and replace with matching new switch. Only one switch was bad but replaced all three. Back together and working great.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Ernest from RIVERSIDE, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB24X830
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Unit would run when door is opened
Two screws to remove upper from vent. Two screws to remove the didgit panel lift ip to remove and put aside remove the two screws that hold the door sensors. Depress the tab to remove the defective sensor disconnect the electrical connector and replace the new sensor snap it back into the holder install the two screws, install the didgital panel and vent panel to complete the job. Please be aware that there is a video of this procedure on Y tube
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
When door opened, microwave would turn on
Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The microwave turntable rotates when the door is open.
This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Carolyn from MASON, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB21X5301
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Alarm would sound whenever oven turned on - with an error message code
Watched the video on the PartSelect site. Could not have been an easier repair and I saved the cost of a service call - probably saved at least $100 - $150 in service call and I can only guess what the labor cost would have been. Will use this business again for other appliance repairs on my older stove, washer, etc. By the way - the official Kenmore site said this part was no longer made and unavailable --- Thank you PartSelect for having the part and saving me the cost of buying a new stove!
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Ronald from PONCA CITY, OK
- Parts Used:
- WB27X10928
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Frost build up on bottom to ice bin and delivery chute in door creating ice blockage
Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Still runs even the door was open
Pulled it from the wall remove the front vent covers removed the control panel remove the door switches by a special screw driver bit which looks a star remove the electrical terminals pressed the plastic clip pulled the switch replaced it with new one then followed initial steps backward
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!