JHP62GN6AD General Electric Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place, I then pulled the element out about three inches, and it shorted out on the main panel of the back of the range. I then went to the breaker box and flipped the switch so I could tell my wife "Yes, I had turned the power off."

Disconnecting the two wires and reconnecting them was a simple operation after I cleaned my pants from the electrical short.

Re attaching the two-screw panes to hold the element in place finished the project.

Before ordering, I took the element out to make sure I could do it. A flashlight was helpful.

I flipped off the circuit breakers to the stove, removed the racks and lifted off the oven door. Not having a nutdriver or socket set, I used a 6' crescent wrench to remove the two screws which hold the element to the back of the oven. I carefully pulled the element out until the spade connectors to the wires were exposed. I wiggled the connectors apart. I had pliers handy, but didn't need them.

I connected the new element to the wires and gently pushed the two connected prongs through their holes, trying not to disturb the insulation. I put a little WD-40 on the screws so they would go in easier. After tightening the screws with the crescent wrench, I replaced the racks and door. I flipped the circuit breaker back on and reset the clock. It works as good or better than new.

First, I removed the burner from the box and plastic bag. Second, I pushed the burner into the socket and that was it.
I also want to comment on how easy the ordering process was. I ljust love this website. All you have to do is type in the model number and up comes all of the parts associated with the appliance. My order shipped the next day and I had unit within 2 days. Also, the part cost $42.00 with shipping. My local parts place was $48.00, so I wound up saving $6.00 and did not have to leave my home to buy it. I will definetly use this site again.

My dealer was unable to find the part even with a model number. Your accurate drawings allowed me to select correct part. It was a perfect replacement in every way and cheaper (by $10) than the dealer. Also quicker.

Everything was very easy: identifying the right part was very easy on the website, the part came quicker than I expected, and my wife replaced the stove element before I even got home from work. She just pulled the old one out like she would to clean the top of the stove, and put the new one back in. Have had several awesome cups of coffee since the replacement.

.First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires and reversed the procedure with the new element very simple.

Did it By Hand
Your Shipment Time Excellant
Order it Mon. Received it Wed.


Thank You

1st, Turn off the stove at the electrical box. 2nd, Remove the oven door by opening it to the first stop, and then pulled it straight up. 3rd, Remove the 2 screws using a 1/4" nut driver. 4th Pull the old heating element straight out, until the two wires that attach to the element are out 3" from rear oven wall. (Note: Place a peace of tape around each wire before disconnecting from the element. this will keep the wires from falling back through the holes). Remove the wires from the old element and remove the old element. 4th Place the new element into the oven, place the wires onto the new element. Then reverse the order of removal for new element install, for the repair. Less than 10 minutes.

Rating: 5 Stars!! We cut the power, removed two screws disconnected the two wires (just pulled them out of the covers) from the old element and pushed in the new ones. It didn't take longer than 10 minutes!

This is the first time it's been as easy as promised! Great customer service in addition to easy and reasonable prices!
Thank you,

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

I read the "easy to repair" story after I ordered my part and I felt like I coud do this on my own. (Female not much experience in repairs) I shut off circuit breaker...proceeded to take out element...could not get it to easiler come off...so I made the mistake of cutting the wire because it looked like that's what I needed to do. WORD TO THE WISE...there are clamps that actually pull off the element..just need to pull a little. So my "easy" project was made more difficult because I didn't know this up front. Otherwise it would have been a breeze. I had to go to the hardware store and but new clamps and attach to the cut wire. Good news is my oven is now working and Parts.com was fast, cheaper than the GE parts place and great service.

This the second time in three years the end caps broke. The first time the replacement end caps slid right on but, this time it was an extreemly tight fit. I had to sprsy white greese on the handle bar and inside the end cap and, even then I thought the end caps would break it was so hard to get on.

This was really easy considering what it would have cost to have a repair person come and do it - not to mention the wait time. I had to hunt around a little bit to find the right socket, but once I had that, I unscrewed the bolts in the back and slide the element out. TIP: make sure you turn off the electricity!!!!!!!!! The wires were a little stuck, but the oven is 11 years old, so it's to be expected. One of the wires came off behind the oven, but I used needle nose pliers and fished around until I grabbed it. I detached the wires, attached the new ones, turned the electricity on and it's been baking Christmas cookies ever since. BTW - the part came in 3 days. I was sooo happy I didn't have to wait for a repair person. Thanks for all of you who posted your comments online. That was just the encouragement I needed to try it myself!