JBV42G*H2 General Electric Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Removed old burner, plugged in new burner. Turned on electric and everything worked fine. I was concerned that I would not be able to get the correct burner since my stove is approximately 30 years old and General Electric no longer stocks replacement parts. The new surface element was manufactured by General Electric and had the correct replacement number on the package. Thanks Part Select.

After checking at local appliance stores and unable to find the bunner I went online looking. I found this site and there it was. I ordered it, received it within two days, took the old one out and the new one in. As my granddaughter says, "easy peasy lemon squeeze". It took all of five seconds and I'm cooking again.

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

it was hard to figure out the instructions from A switch to B switch to my switch. The first switch was no good the second one was good. prayer book didn't hurt.thank

I flipped breaker off for electic and confirmed that power to the stove was off. I removed the 2 screws holding the control unit in place. Carefully removed all knobs and buttons and pryed the cover for the control unit off. I then removed old part, removed the wired and clipped wires to the new unit. Put cover back on - has some difficulty getting the panel back in place to line up the screws. But after a couple of attempts, was able to line up unit and put screws in place to secure. Replaced all knobs. Turn breaker back on and cooked lunch. Very easy job. Most difficult part was getting panel back in position. I would watch alignment more carefully before I removed in next time. Easy home repair for Women...not sure about my man?

Good directions

The original controls were different for the small burners and the large burners. The replacement part fits all. Before removing wires, pay attention to writing on new and old control and replace 1 at a time. The hardest part was being sure to cut the knob stem to the correct length. Control works well.

Had one burner that was completely out as the old terminal block had a broken contact. The other burner was intermittent and would arc when heating up. There are several slightly different size terminal blocks. I had a hard time re-inserting one of the old burners into the new terminal block but got it to seat. I put a new burner with the new block on the other one and it fit much better. Additional tools used were a wire stripper and a heat gun for the heat shrink. The stove works great now.

Pulled out the 8 inch surface element and then used a 1/4 inch socket to remove mounting screw for terminal block and pulled out block with attached wires as far as wires would permit. My range top does not lift up so I had to work thru surface opening but there was at least 10 inches of wire to pull out so it was not a problem. Cut existing wires at block, stripped 1/2 inch of insulation using my wire stripper pliers and wrapped wire ends of new terminal block and secured with wire nuts provided. Slipped on shrink insulation provided and applied flame from a hand held butane lighter. The instructional video on the web site was a great help. I may not have done repair without first watchng how easy it is. A cheap wire stripper is a great help. This supplier made it easy to select parts with fast delivery and complete the repair. Great source of appliance parts.

Simple repair. Easy to do. It was disappointing to receive replacement parts which were not ceramic terminals as depicted and described in words, but plastic and therefore will need to be replaced again soon. In addition the shrink tube was not large enough in diameter to cover the wire nut, both of which were provided with the replacement terminal. Part # PS232646 is not ceramic, but plastic which does not fair well in high heat applications.

Pull out oven/range unit. Lift range top all the way up. Remove old terminal block. Make electrical connections using supplied wire nuts & heat shrink tubing. Heat shrink. Replace range top. Install coil burner & burner pan as unit. Done.

I have had to replace this unit once before. It was very obvious which terminal had burned off. Removed the total front panel. Removed the timer and replaced wires from one unit to the other. Also had to strip off one wire connection and replaced it .

This is twin oven range with controls at side of upper oven. Control panel was fastened with screws at top and bottom. Range has built-in hood at top which had to be disassembled to reach top screw. Once had access to top screw, eaisly removed control panel and replaced control. New control had identical connections as old control so only had to install it, break shaft to correct length, and use proper shaft adapter for knob. Remounted control panel and range worked perfectly. This would have been a very quick job except for having to deal with the built-in range hood.

1) Took photo of original wiring behind original clock. 2) Marked up wiring instructions for new clock with wire colors. 3) Marked wire colors next to posts on new clock. 4) Removed old clock and its metal mounting bracket. 5) Installed new clock onto old mounting bracket.PROBLEM: The holes in the glass facade of oven are shifted about 1/4" off from the pushbuttons on the new clock. 6) Remove bracket and enlarged holes by 1/4" sideways. This includes shifting the holes for the oven light pushbutton switches, and the four "racetrack" holes where the bracket attaches to the oven. Plug wires into new clock, using extender wires provided as needed. Labelled extender wires with their "colors". POWER UP. The clock works, and the "Timed Bake" works. However, the Self-Cleaning of the oven cannot be started, because the latch level cannot be moved to the right (locked ) position. This leaves us unsatisfied, as restoration of Self-Cleaning was the reason we decided to replace the oven clock.

unplugged and installed