EW30MC65JS3 Electrolux Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Removed microwave cover trim,
removed the microwave#1philips and security screws , removed the cover. Removed the 3 #1 screws holding the racket in front of the light bulb. I pryed the plastic clip holding the light, removed the bulb put the new bulb in and reversed the order to reassemble

Installation of the temparature sensor, one of the technician recommended parts took no time, just two screws and a snap off/snap on part. It did not fix the problem. I then replaced the main control panel, which requires more work, but didn't solce the ussue either. I then replaced the thermal fuse, which wasn't mentioned by tech support, and required much more disassebly of the top panels of the stove, with still no fix to the problem. I am waiting to replace the thermostat heat sensor unit, the only other part in the circuit controlling power supply, requiring removal of the stove top again,

Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.

removed the screws holding the front part of the door and from there worked my way, untill the third glass.
It took a couple hours, my first time,. Overall easy,

on the back side of the wall oven the sensor wire was ziptied tight. we had to totally pull oven out of its wall space, remove back panel, unhook zip tie, feed through sensor hole around insulation, connect and then replace back and return and relevel the oven. I have

I took off the keypad panel,then plugged it back in,turned it on for 2 seconds so I can see where the spark was comming from,saw it was the capacitor, unpluged it while it was on so the voltage would drain,took out the capacitor ordered it a few days later,put it back in, now the wife is happy,and when she is happy,I'm happy :-)

This is an OTR microwave oven, needs to be removed to diagnose problem. I did not diagnose problem properly, I searched online for possible causes, read that (99%)percent of the time the interlock switch was bad and replacement should solve my problem. It was also stated to be an easy fix,15- 45 minutes depending on ability. I ordered the relay switch. Took the oven down then removed outer shell. With my multimeter I began to test, fuses(2), interlock switches(3)and transformer. 3 interlock switches were ok, fuses were fine, and had power to the transformer, meter could not read output of transformer because of high voltage, (2300v). I'm down to magnetron (about a hundred bucks) or the touch pad/ circuit board. I have a countertop micro that I'm putting in place of the OTR. As far as Partselect, my item was shipped and delivered on time, instructions for changing that part was quite accurate. Would order from here again, just do my homework first.

my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.

I have a Kenmore elite built-in microwave. I started by opening the microwave and removing the small trim frame from the rectangle surrounding the window which covers the screws needed to be removed as part of latch head install process. But then went and removed every other screw from the frame which holds the door onto the hinge bracket. It is important not to remove all of the screws because the door will fall off the frame and shatter on the floor. My particular microwave when the door is open is right about 32 inches off the ground. I found two kitchen chairs that were about 32 inches high on the backs and positioned them where they supported the door when it was open and horizontal. Once I did this, I was able to unscrew the remainder of the screws, holding the door on the frame and slowly released it while holding onto the door frame, so it did not slam – it is spring loaded. I moved the door to another location and moved to replace the latch head on the upper right side by removing the broken latch, head retaining spring with a small pair of pliers and leaving it hanging on the door anchor, and then using a Philips screwdriver to take the broken latch off. I basically repeated these procedures in reverse, putting the new latch head on, connecting the spring, and then supporting the door frame with the chairs holding it just high enough to lower the hinge frame and line up to screw holes so I could start putting the screws back in. When I was done, I inserted the window frame insert cover over the screws and tested the microwave. It worked flawlessly.

Watching the video showed an easy, unscrew and screw back on process while connecting the wires back. It was really that simple. Once it was complete (not even 10mins), plugged it back in, and its been working great since.

Remove two screws in back to release the top.
Lift the top from the back and pull backwards to remove.
Open washer door and unscrew two screws to release the switch.
Reach down inside from the front and remove the switch.
Unplug the switch and replace with the new one. Reverse the process to install.
I found it easier to have someone hold the switch while I screwed it back in.

I purchased one relay switch (there are three) took one out one by one and replced it with the new one and tested it each time until it worked. Super easy and saved me hundreds of dollars by doing this myself.

Removed unit from above stove removed outer housing, interior shield and tested the 4 door relays. One was not working. Replaced parts and re installed unit over stove.

Much like the other post: 1. Removw vent case on top (3 screws) 2. Remove cover with control buttons (1 screw). 3. Removed bottom relay switch and replaced. Tight working space so be patient. Took 15 minutes Needle nose pliers used to crimp connector onto switch

I actually watched Youtube while I was changing it. This video was not actually the same make up of my oven, even though the I typed in the model number. I manage to figure it any with the steps anyway. It was harder then I expected but not horrible. I think I did pretty well for a women. Patti