A9895VRV Admiral Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Using a flat-head screw driver, I removed the 1 screw from the small "door" on the back, upper right corner. Once the screw was removed, it allowed the door plate to "pop" open; exposing the old bulb. I removed the old bulb; replaced it with the new one. DONE!

Unscrewed back plate, and replaced bulb

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

After removing the screws holding in the heating element and pulling out. I quickly realized I had a problem. The connectors on the wires and the connectors on the element were the same(female). So I had to ct the wire connectors off and put the correct type (male) connector on. If not for this the repair would have taken 5 minutes including time to pull stove away from wall and unplug and then plug back in and push to wall

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

took out the old dome cover and replaced it with a new one by unscrewing and replaced the new one and a fiberglass gasket. simple.

Ordered the part. when it arrived-quite speedily, I just unpacked it and put the cotton gasket around the glass and screwed it to the proper place in the oven. Very easy.

The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.

Left oven off. Located sensor in pdf manual. Unscrewed mount, pulled sensor out to access connector. Disconnected old sensor, checked continuity(resistance) on ohms with multimeter. No continuity; connected new sensor, screwed mount back into place, turned on oven and baked cookies to check operation & it worked perfectly.

The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not look for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike

This is a very easy repair. But, make sure you first unplug the stove. Simply turning off the oven is not good enough. My wire connectors were reversed compared to the new element so I had to change the ones attached to the stove from female to male connectors. I bought 18 gauge male connectors, cut the old ones off and crimped on the new ones, attached the new element, pushed it back into place, put the two screws back in place and we were back in business.

I removed the 2 screws that hold the element in place. (located in the back of the oven). I then pulled the 2 wires about 3 inches & disconnected the 2 wires (1 red & 1 yellow).

first i disconnected the power then removed the back cover then tested the element after removing the wires and found the element to be bad , did some research found parts select and happly found our part and ordered it .part came in removed back cover unhooked two wires took out two screws , removed and replaced , thank you parts select. every one needs to know about you.

First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your website. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!

I removed the two screws that attach the element to the back of the oven. Then I pulled the element out a few inches and disconnected each of the wires attached to the element.
These were easy to disconnect because they were quick-disconnect spade type connectors.
Note the easiest part was the ordering and delivered the very next day WOW