YMEDX500BW1 Maytag - Instructions

I Picked up the two front corners up, after removing the 2 screws from the vent and the 2 screws that hold the door switch in place, then I disconnected the old switch and put in the new one. Just the opposite of how I took it apart. Very simple and it works great!! Thanks

Part came in about 3 days. After reading and checking what was wrong with the Dryer -- which i read if there was no noise coming from the dryer it was the door switch, Looked up the part number and then saw a video that showed how to install the door switch. The video was so informative and precise on everything you had to do and easy Saved money on a service call.

removed old gasket took door off 4 screws. cleaned seal area applied glue put on gasket easy

Take the door off of the dryer. Lay it on a towel. Remove old gasket. Clean the channel the door gasket fits into with glue remover. Squeeze high temperature glue into the channel, let the glue set up. Put the new gasket into the channel, tape it down in a few places. Let it sit 24 hours for the glue to set up. Put the door back on. You can put the door on immediately as long as you don't use the dryer for 24 hours. Easy.

I have not received the parts yet waiting on the motor, can’t put the blower fan in without the motor, ordered it , Jan 23rd, still no motor, have to go to laundry mat, have you ever had to do that with 7kids, and you and your wife’s laundry, probably not, because you would have had your motor by now. Maybe you can help me with the part so I can redo a testimonial here for you. 19 days and still waiting

Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.

I followed the video. So easy..

Repair was fairly simple, unplug power from dryer, take back top panel off, remove timer knob, remover timer switch, un-plug one lead at a time, and place on new timer, reconnect timer, put back on back panel, reconnect power to dryer, and that it.

The cycling thermostat was found to be not working when I checked it with a ohm meter. I ordered the part waited and installed it and it work just fine.

Replaced the most worn drum wheel any lubed the belt tension arm pulley. The noise didn't go completely away. There are 4 drum wheels. I need to order 3 more wheels and the tension arm now.

My dryer started squeaking and I thought it was the drum rollers, so I bought a set. When I attempted the repair and got as far as removing the dryer drum and I decided to spin the shaft on the motor and that was where the squealing was coming from. I put the rollers on and reassembled the dryer. One day later the motor seized up. Ordered a new motor and installed it with no problems. The nut on the back of the motor ended up being a 20mm wrench. Motor cost me $105.56 and the maintenance kit (ps37308) (2 rollers,4 clips, button clip, new idler pulley and belt) cost $32.08. It cost a total of $137.64 in repairs with no labor costs and I accomplished it in under an hour. Minor handyman skills needed or find a friend who is handy. My dryer is 14 years old and now is running like new again. I used the 50% rule, if a repair exceeds 50% of the cost of a new machine, replace it, if the repair can be done for less than 50% of the cost of a new on, fix it.

I put in the new parts but it still did not work, Turned out the Thermal Fuse Blew,removed the two wires and clipped them together and the Dryer worked, have to replace the Thermal fuse and everything will be OK.

first with the dryer unpluged ,i removed the wires from the upper thermal cut off ,then with a nut driver i removed it . replaced it with the new one and reattatched the two wires then the same on the bottom thermal . to replace the spring i removed the two screws pulled out the switch and spring at the same time ,removed the broken spring and replaced it onto the switch then placed it back into the dryer and replaced the screws.! everything worked like it han never been broke! my wife is verry happy!!!

I removed all the screws to the back panel to gain access to the inside. checked all thermostats and fuses for conductivity (0.001 ohms) resistance. noticed the thermal cut off fuse (thermostat) was showing no conductivity (infinite ohms or OL). FYI the thermal cut-off kit I purchased included both the thermal cut-off fuse(why this is called fuse is a lie its actually a thermostat) and high limit thermostat. I'm seeing alot of users purchasing these seperate but it isn't neccessary. You might need some wire strippers with a crimper though to install everything.

Remove backpanel, ohms cut off thermostat, no good, disconnet two wires from defective part and installed a new one.