MLE22PDAYW0 Maytag - Instructions

Open the bottom screws (hex-screw driver. remove riongs with pliers. use pan to remove excess water remained in pipes. pull to the right and remove. easier than it seems,

the job would have gone faster if the right parts had been sent in the first place. I would have never paid for two day shipping. In the repair, I removed the rear panel, clipped the plastic triangle holding the bearing, installed the new bearing and new clip.

Just like video except there were two screws in back to take control head off. Be prepared to have shop vacation ready. Clean dryer duct too. Have bandaids ready. Plastic triangles are not easy to take off, video makes it look easy.

Took the old filter out and inserted the new one- works great!!

Remove the plastic caps from the rear of the machine. Insert the locking bolts into the slots. There is a clip on the bolts with a corresponding hole in the outside edge of the slots, this tells you exactly where to place the bolt. In my case i used a large flat head screw driver to move the drum into alignment with the bolt by inserting the driver into a different slot and prying the drum into place. When i had the first bolt started and about hald way in, i did the diagonly opposite bolt, got that one about half way in then did th elast two. i did not need to pry much on these two as the drum was no lined up fairly well with the bolts. I tightened them up and moved the washer. You do NOT need to call a maytag agent to come out and do this.

Pulled out the old and slid in the new filter

I just inserted the door catch, which by the way fit in perfectly. Thanks. Took 5 seconds to repair.

I replaced the thermistor earlier, but the code was still flashing. I noticed the heater terminals were charred and pretty well covered in carbon. So, I replaced the heater, the thermostat and thermal fuse and replaced the 3/8" spade terminals on the heater wires. (These are hard to find - most electrical spades terminals are .250. Also, I crimped and soldered these for a connection with the lowest resistance possible). After all that, the code still flashed! I let the explatives fly, calmed down, and ran the control board test. (This is done by pressing "more time" "less time" "more time" "less time" in succession.) The control board was passing all the tests, but the thermistor test, and the only thing is in this circuit is the thermistor, the wires, the connector to the control board, and some circuit on the control board that involves a few resistors and the "brain" chip. So, I checked the terminals at the thermistor, the wires up to the control board and the connector at the board. The control board connector was fairly dust encrusted, so I unplugged it, cleaned the control board terminals and sucked away all the lint and dust. Finally, I carefully removed earch crimp terminal from the Molex connector (the white female connector) and cleaned and bent them to yield a better connection to the terminals on the control board. I put it all back together, and thus far it is working fine.

Received in two days, open box, installed part. Pretty easy, fast service. I'm a repeat customer and will use these guys in the future.

I ordered the dryer repair kit and to my surprise it arrived 4 days early. I followed the video instructions on the parts select website to replace 4 rollers, belt and belt pulley. A 1/4 in nut driver attached to my Dewalt drill made life ALOT easier!! My recommendation, when you remove the rollers, take a rag and really clean up the shaft they ride on. Then apply a lightweight spray oil to the shafts. When you install the new rollers they will spin free and easy. Having the dryer apart is also a great time to break out the dust buster of vacuum. Spin the fan motor up front by hand and use vacuum to remove lint or belt shaving from inside the cabinet. Add this step as good fire prevention measure.

Removed bottom panel, removed hoses and pump. Reinstalled in reverse order.

We watched the video at whirlpool.com! Made it so simple anyone could have done it!

BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE UNPLUG THE POWER AND TURN OFF THE GAS SUPPLY 1. unscrew the 3 nut screws at the back to remove the cover lid. 2. pull the control console cable from the electronic board. (only 3 wires on it).3. unscrew the 2 nut screws of the control console then remove it by pulling up.4. unscrew the 5 screws to remove the door. (pull little up to unhinged then remove). 6. unscrew the 5 nut screws to remove the lower siding. 7. unscrew the copper 4 nut screws then remove the lint suction fixture 8. unscrew the 4 nut screws to remove door fixture ,then just lay next to the machine.(the wires are long enough so you don't need to unplug and separate it from the machine.9. remove the belt by pulling the idler pulley towards the motor pulley (against the tension spring) 10. remove the drum by lifting a little bit upward. 11. remove the plastic triangular lock using a small screw driver then remove the idler pulley wheel then install the replacement. (clean your machine using a vacuum cleaner and remove all the lints). 12. install back the drum, be sure to set the drum belt to the right position. (groove on drum side). 13. install back the belt to the pulley the same procedure as to remove it. 14. assemble back what you have removed. end.

Used my Whirlpool Dryer User Instructions Manual and followed instructions and used the Cabinet Parts page to see the diagrams.

Unscrewed the bottom panelof the dryer and located the thermistor through the schematic for my machine. Removed the old one and put the new one in the same way. No more E1 problems and all cycles now complete themselves.