2416H Simplicity Lawn Mower - Instructions

Clean engine with a Gunk type product. Remove valve cover. Loosen bolts and remove old cylinder head. One bolt is located inside valve cover area. Remove old gasket and inspect and clean that surface. Attach new head with new gasket using existing bolts. Torque to 18'#s with a cross type pattern. Attach new rocker arms and push rods. Set valve clearance to .004 - .006. Attach valve cover with gasket. Check oil level. Start and let it warm up. Let cool remove cover then check valve clearance again. Replace cover.

I removed the fan shroud, the carb/manifold as an assembly,turned the carb upside down and removed the fuel bowl. I replaced only one jet. Not until this moment did I discover their were two jets in this nikki carb. I now have a second jet ordered and will install it Friday,hopefully. These jets are two different part numbers as one is a left jet and the other is a right one. Be careful when opening the fuel bowl as these jets are held in their bores by small O-rings, and nothing else. The brigg's and Stratton part numbers are 791501 for the left jet and 791502 for the right.

I went to Troy-Bilt first first for the part-nothing, then B&S engine, still no help surfing their websites for this part. Again, no help. Before giving up completely I thought about all the parts I have bought from PartSelect for washers and such. Typed in "Fan-Flywheel" B&S. First thing that popped up was a picture of this part. All my searching on Troy-Bilt mower site and B&S site for over two hours with no results, and then I go to PartSelect and without my model number or anything else, they had it and even displayed my model number and sent it right away, popped it in and the mower is working fine as ever. No matter what you need, I say save yourself a lot of time and just go here first. I'm a loyal member of PartSelect for over six years!!!

Removed head. Replaced both rocker arms, intake pus rod, push rod guide exhaust and head gaskets. Torqued head in 3 stages to 216 in/lbs. gapped intake to .004 and exhaust to .006 at TDC

Added oil and gas. Now running great

If you need to replace push rods use steel (exhaust) they are the same length
The engine was a Briggs & Stratton 217802 0113 E10604 (2006 year date code)
I used the following
796189 gasket
272475S gasket
697494 push rod
690822 push rod guide
691751 rocker arms

Look on YouTube for video's on how to replace a Briggs governor. There are several there. My favorite, with best explanation, is, "Easily Replace Briggs Governor Gear (V-Twin Intek Engine) with Taryl". https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wn3eanGxSEA&t=152s.

Taryl (probably not his real name) does a very good job of showing step-by-step the whole procedure, along with some additional hints/tricks/techniques of value.

Not including oil and filter, I spent less than $50 for a new governor, gasket, and drive shaft seal. That's all that is really necessary to replace is those three parts. That is, unless pieces of the old governor tore up a gear, valve, or something else. Inspect everything! {I was lucky and only the governor was destroyed}

One word of note. Be sure to clean out all of the debris from the blown governor. Be sure to remove the spark plugs and carefully rotate the drive shaft while looking for nooks-and-crannies where debris can hide. I tried to use a magnet to help, but it didn't help much, even though the block is aluminum.

Good luck.

dissembled ordered repair parts, piston ,upper case, rod, camshaft, seal kit, and motor maintenance CD
The camshaft first provided did not have the compression release device on it and the cam lobe position was all wrong for the model engine I had. .
Parts Select provided me with the proper cam Shaft. Removed engine from mower (Scag Freedom Z) 15 minutes, drained oil, flipped upside down removed bottom case, removed wrong cam shaft, reinstall new valve lifters, camshaft with decompression release on it matching dots on crankshaft. Used paint brush to coat all parts heavily with motor oil.
Do not put sealant on case gasket,(it might change crankshaft end play), retorqued bolt in alternating pattern, placed nylon pipe tape on drain plug threads, and reinstalled engine on mower. It started instantly and ran extremely smooth with no oil burn or vibration.

I am very happy with the support and quick mshipping Parts Select provided..

Used this an old (maybe a 2007?) Briggs and Stratton 17.5 ho engine.This fan wasn’t an exact replica of the old one. But the bolt holes were in the right spot and it was the right size. Had to drill out the little dimples for the bolts and the fan guard that goes on top to stop debris didn’t screw directly into the fan like the old one. But I was able to attach the guard to the engine cover/piece that houses the air filter with a plastic bracket/retainer that was already on the engine. Overall, easy install and fit just fine once I determined how I wanted to attach the fan guard

First I opened the top of the mower to expose the housing cover. Secondly I removed the four housing bolts to remove the housing cover from the mower. Next I removed the tube breather and installed the new tube breather and replaced the housing cover with the four bolts previously removed and closed the top of the mower. I filled the mower with gas to check for leaks which weren't any leaks. I proceeded to mow the lawn with ease.