AMKIT97 (4344173) Whirlpool Ice Maker - Instructions

Note: I thought the motor was bad, it was actually one of the gears. Order the motor-gear module. You will probably receive the motor-gear module if you order the motor only.

I removed the hex bolt on the right side of the ice maker. Removed the whole assembly from the refrigerator, diconnecting the cable as I pulled it out. I use a philips screw driver to remove the three scews holding the motor gear assembly. I pulled off the motor/gear module; installed the new motor gear assembly. Reinstalled the ice maker. Easy!

We replaced this part 5 years ago, so we considered ourselves "experienced" at this particular job. We followed the video at your site and after some sticky removal parts, we were able to put the new motor in and finish putting the freezer back in its original shape. After a few worried hours, we again had ice. The video was easy to follow and we couldn't be happier. Thank you for saving us hundreds of dollars.

After reading the stories on your site, I figured it had to be the motor control. Easy to take off, but had to take the tray off the freezer wall to get the ice out. Once I did that it was a piece of cake. Now I have ice (and vodka tonics...).

removed the white plate, unscrewed 3 screws and replaced the part.

I don't know how he did the repair, but he told me it was simple, and I know it saved us a lot of money! Thank you for your excellent help and the delivery was like overnight!!
Submitted by
"The Wife"

Disconncted power, pulled plug on disconnect, loosened 3 ice maker attach screws, removed ice maker. carefully removed old broken part, to understand reasembly. Reinstalled new water fill & bearing part.. hung icemaker and tightened attach screws. Reattached electrical plug.. turned on power, it all worked. .took about 45 min to remove, 15 min to reinstall. Right tools needed re disassembly AND ASSEMBLY

Water Intake valve for icemaker in Amana refrigerator
We found that the icemaker was not getting water due to a faulty intake valve. The original valve had a plastic coupling on the vinyl tube leaving the valve. The replacement valve had a quick connect coupling. Replacing the valve with the new part gave a significant leak. After discussion and viewing YouTube directions multiple times, the part was returned; and a new part was sent. It also leaked.
After searching, a video was found that dealt with the no-fail quick connect. The problem was not in the quick connect but in the tube from our refrigerator which had a spring inside the last five inches of the tube. This aided the prevention of a leak when the original plastic coupling had been installed.
SOLUTION: Removing the part of the tube with the spring using a clean cut allowed the quick connect to work preventing the leak. This needs to be mentioned in the how-to videos to save others having a problem. Also, these instructions with the part would be helpful.

The longer than usual repair times shown above were the result of the spring insert in the plastic water tube of the refrigerator. Nowhere in the how-to instructions were references made of either an insert in the tube or quick connect procedures.

We were well pleased with the support rendered by the PartSelect staff.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

Watched the video...easy!

Easy, just removed the ice dispenser and the left support for the dispenser so I could get to the bottom screw easier. Three screws held the mold in place. The bottom screw had to be removed completely, but I just loosened the two top screws and lifted the mold out away from the wall and then disconnected the wiring. The end cover snapped of easy with a screw driver. I then removed the three screws holding the motor. then pulled the motor off.(the next square part under the cover. I did this before I realized that I could use a small screw driver and stick it into the holes to remove the mold and not mess with the outer screws. After I removed the mold, I replaced the new mold into position, without putting the white forky looking part back on so I had to take the two screws out and put the part in place before attaching the motor back to the mold. Everything went back together just like a charm. The ice maker is working good, easy job. Gone golfing now.

Watched a video on YouTube on how to replace the icemaker control assembly. The video showed unplugging power, turning off the water supply, and removing the entire ice maker from the freezer. After watching the video several times, I unplugged the refrigerator but did not turn off the water supply. I did not remover the entire ice maker from the freezer, but I did remove the wire shut-off arm. After that, I pried off front cover of the control assembly. The control assembly is held in place by 3 Phillips screws; I removed the screws, removed the icemaker control assembly, replaced the assembly with the new one, replace the cover and wire shut-off arm, and plugged the refrigerator back into the wall. Had ice in about an hour (seemed the system had a little delay before deciding to go to work!).

It took both me and my wife! One of the new parts we recieved was broke so we took the part off of the one that didn't work.

Unplug the fridge. Used the screw driver to remove the motor. Easy. Now putting the new one in was difficult because it has to line up exactly.
Thats what took 15 minutes but after me and my wife worked on it, we had a bucket of ice by morning!
We only knew how to do what we did because of reading these messages on this site. It came with no directions.

Removed icemaker by first removing the nutscrew that holds the cover to the electrical connection in place. Next, I removed the door then slid the icemaker out and diconnected the electrical connector. With the icemaker out, I R&R'ed the motor assy , reconnected the electrical, and slid the icemaker back in place. Next, I replaced the door, turned the icemaker switch on and waited. In about 30 minutes I heard the water being injected into the icemaker, and soon there was ice. The repair was easy and inexpensive. Tx to Partselect which I found on Google.

I took the front panel off the ice maker. Found the contacts on control board were burnt. I called Partselect, told them my model # and they directed me to a new control panel. 4 screws later I had part back on and ice makin.
Thanks Partselect!

John Long

Used online resources to deteremine that it was either the icemaker not telling the valve to open or the valve no opening so ordered both and started with the valve (cheaper part). Turn off the water, removed the mounting screws, disconnected the plug, removed the water line (used the wet vac to suck up water while it leaked out). and disconnected the inlet line. Reconnected everything in reverse order but left unmounted until sure it worked, turned water on and waited.