EC515WWV0 Whirlpool Ice Maker - Instructions

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!

We tried repairing with a new switch which was very easy to install but it didn't fix the problem.

This is an easy fix, simply remove and replace. What I was impressed with is that a how to video was provided along with my part. I wish all manufactures would offer this, the video was easy to understand and you had a good view of the operation. Thanks, a job well done.

Impossible to pass the water tubing through the door as kitchenaid spliced the water tube behind the dispenser and also within the door with tube connectors and not to mention that it was also bundled with the wiring harness. I freshen the connections behind the door and after the tubing exited the door. No leak so far. The only piece of the purchased tubing I used was the spout and attached 12 inch strip of the tubing.

I took the freezer door handle off, removed the door panel covers, removed the ice/water cover, then removed the backing to expose the tubing from the broken spout to a coupling behind the enclosure. Cut the tubing to length on the replacement tip, secured coupling, installed adn then put the door back together.

Easy repair once you figure out how the door is assembled. Note there are two replacement parts supplied in the kit. You only need one, but.... don't throw anything away yet, we have a special use for the extra part. 1) Pull the surround to reveal the mounting point for the dispenser. There is an inner panel that has a couple screws that needs to come out. 2) Disconnect the switch plate from the harness. Ensure you have the wire colors written down. My fridge had them marked on the switch, but be sure to check first. 3) Disconnect the water line under the door. Instructions show a threaded coupling, but mine was a press fit. Easy to undo, just put pressure on the collar at the union, then pull the tube out. 4) Remember the extra tube in the kit? This is where to use it. The tube in the door follows a channel down to the door hinge. However, it sometimes hangs up on the hinge ferrel, which means you have to pull the door to fish it out. To avoid having to pull the door, use the extra tube as a "fish tape." String or twine works just as well. Tape (duct tape, electrical tape, etc.) the end of the old tube to the extra tub supplied in the kit. You can tell which one by comparing the nozzle ends, they are different. You want this tape joint to be smooth without a big bulge. 5) Remove the screw holding the old nozzle and gently pull the old nozzle and tube from the door. 6) Disconnect the old tube from the extra tube, then connect the new replacement tube to the extra tube. 7) Carefully draw the new tube into the door. 8) Disconnect the extra tube from the new tube and reconnect the new tube to the water line. 9)Mount the nozzle, re-install the inner panel, re-connect the switch assembly, then reassemble the surround.