2155188 Roper Ice Maker - Instructions

First I did the diagnostics and thought the water valve wasn't functioning so I replaced that, but it still didn't make ice. So I went on line and found the first thing to fix should have been the module and motor assembly. It was a real easy fix because I had pulled the ice maker before to investigate what was wrong. I just removed one screw and disconnected the electrical. There were four screws holding the motor assembly on. So I put the new motor on and had ice in 30 mnutes.

I don't know how he did the repair, but he told me it was simple, and I know it saved us a lot of money! Thank you for your excellent help and the delivery was like overnight!!
Submitted by
"The Wife"

Note: I thought the motor was bad, it was actually one of the gears. Order the motor-gear module. You will probably receive the motor-gear module if you order the motor only.

I removed the hex bolt on the right side of the ice maker. Removed the whole assembly from the refrigerator, diconnecting the cable as I pulled it out. I use a philips screw driver to remove the three scews holding the motor gear assembly. I pulled off the motor/gear module; installed the new motor gear assembly. Reinstalled the ice maker. Easy!

Disconncted power, pulled plug on disconnect, loosened 3 ice maker attach screws, removed ice maker. carefully removed old broken part, to understand reasembly. Reinstalled new water fill & bearing part.. hung icemaker and tightened attach screws. Reattached electrical plug.. turned on power, it all worked. .took about 45 min to remove, 15 min to reinstall. Right tools needed re disassembly AND ASSEMBLY

removed the white plate, unscrewed 3 screws and replaced the part.

Watched the video from whirlpool and it seemed to be relatively straightforward - but as I am afraid of electricity and not much of a DIY guy I had a friend over to supervise - initially diagnosed a leak at the water inlet valve - but after ordering the part online ($75) and before it arrived about 6 days later I started to investigate the valve - initially I could not release the plastic tube from the valve (output to the ice-maker) but I pushed a part or two and managed to release it - when the part arrived I bought 6ft of tubing from a local store who sold it by the foot as opposed to HD who sold a 25ft tube - I also decided to buy new braided stainless steel to go from faucet to the inlet valve ($10) - put together everything when the valve arrived and did not take long to put everything together - time mainly spent after checking leaks - tea towels and small towels around fridge - to my dismay after few days discovered fridge was still leaking at front - so checked a few videos and thought origin of leak must be evaporation tray - so placed a bowl under the overflow on inside at the back of fridge and it seemed to catch the water and no leaks - so I tried to get existing evap. tray out - not easy - clipped into a slot at back of fridge and released that but still struggled to get tray out - eventually forced it out but in doing that I split the tray - so I was not sure that was issue as I had split the tray forcing it out - however looking at the base of fridge where the tray was the surface was v rusty and rust was there on foot of tray - so I assumed that was issue - ordered a new tray ($20 I think) - looking under fridge after I forced out the tray I noticed there were two clips that held the tray in place - but could not see them when tray was in place - so I took some pliers and forced the end of clips up to make it easier to get the new tray in place - so when I received new tray only went in easily - then tested a few days - found a little leak at faucet so tightened the water line nut - so now just testing that water in evap tray does in fact evaporate- so far so good - I'll leave a few more days then attach back cover of fridge and push back fridge to where it should be -I will always wonder if I needed to replace the inlet valve but the experience was worth it as it gives me confidence to attack other jobs - most of my time spent testing for leaks after replacing parts

I first replaced the icemaker assembly but that didn't fix it so I bought and installed a new inlet valve and that fixed it. This video shows exactly what I did.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VdHG_6LpdL4
The icemaker didn't start right up so I jumpstarted it by shorting out terminals T and H as shown here.
https://www.applianceaid.com/icemaker-module.php
The wheel should start to turn. Just make sure to remove the jumper wire when the wheel has turned between 1/4 and 1/2 rotation.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

Watched the video...easy!

Removed old ejector arm and installed new part.

Valve-inlt had stopped functioning. The longest part of the repair was determining that the water lines weren't clogged and were working efficiently. Replacing the faulty valve only took a matter of minutes. The part was ordered and shipped in a timely fashion. Thanks!

Turned off ice maker. Remove one screw with nut driver (1/4") that hold plugin cover. Push the release lock, (up) on bottom of Ice maker to slide unit out enough to unplug and remove ice maker out of freezer. remove white side cover and replace control unit. Reinstall white side cover then plug unit in at freezer and slide unit into locks reinstall plugin cover with screw. Turn on ice maker and watch Ice maker start to move and tray to fill with water. Done.

When I took the ice maker apart I noticed that the shaft of the motor control wheel was broken so when it turned it could not trip the control contacts nor rotate the ice ejector fingers. I ordered a new control and motor assembly which arrived two days later. It was very easy to install and now the ice maker works perfectly.

PartSelect was a great help. A local appliance parts warehouse stocked parts for my ice maker but they only stocked a kit that contained other parts that I did not need. Ordering from PartSelect saved me over $35.

Open the icemaker service, door slide it out, remove wiring, remove ice maker control cover,remove 3screw, put new one in, put everything back together and with in 6 hours we have ice again. PS my husband did it though.

Unplugged the frig., removed three screws, pulled the motor out, then slid the new motor in. Within a few hours I had ice again. The only problem was I felt the motor was still hooked to something after I took out the screws. Just be firm and pull it out, the pressure you feel is the thin bar that slides into the back of it to monitor the level of ice in the tray. It was REALLY easy.