KUIC15PRXS2 KitchenAid Ice Maker - Instructions

This repair was super easy. there are only 5 screws to remove to get at the defective switch. 3 in the housing where the light bulbs are and 2 in the front trim piece where the cooling adjustment dials are. I never did unplug the fridge ,but probably should have although nothing bad happened. I removed all 5 screws using a 1/4" socket ( a nutdriver would work well also). there is also a small dia rod that comes down from the coolness adj. wheel that when you re-assemble goes though the middle of the wheel. The switch has only 2 wires that clip on with the push on flat type connectors. Very simple. I removed the wires and then the switch can be removed( it is only held in by 2 squeezable side clips). I put the new switch in and connected the wires , checked to see that the lights went on and off. which they did. then just put the screws back in.....done. also I would like to say that when I ordered my switch it came super fast. I ordered it online at 11:00am on a tuesday and it was on my doorstep in wisconsin by 10:00 am the next day...Thanks

I surfed partselect and read that a reader had a similar problem with a rattling fan. I then removed the back panel, after I had unplugged the unit, and was able to feel the slop in the fan shaft. I then watched the video of how to replace the fan and ordered the part soon after. The part arrived 3 days later! Easy to do. I was finished in 12 minutes and the fridge runs silently. The part of the job that took the longest was vaccuming the undercarriage. There was alot of dust! Couldn't have helped the efficiency on the fridge. Keep it clean.

Removed and replaced the condenser motor fan kit. This was a very easy tear down and replacement of a bad component. Removed 4 screws to remove the bracket holding the fan motor kit pulled it out and replaced with the new unit (4 screws supplied) plgged in adapter cord (supplied) and re-installed took about 10 minutes.

Bought new wire, strung it end to end and fastened it at each end.

Remove pump and hoses from bad bucket, removed bucket and install new bucket . To remove pump, remove screw holding pump and turn pump 1/4 turn. Be careful Putting new bucket back, can break hose if not careful. Good luck

The thumbscrews that hold the cutter grid can only be removed by using a needle nose pliers , you cannot turn them by hand. The electrical connections for the grid and level sensor can be removed by pressing the front side of the connector while pulling down. Re-installing the cutter grid is in reverse to the removal, just follow the instructions. But be aware that all wiring remains outside the grid perimeter when reconnecting. One other thing: While you are at it, remove the lower outside panel to expose the evaporator coils which need to be vacuumed. Replacing these parts is tricky. I had to remove the door then loosely install the upper retainer bracket for the lower panel so I could slide the upper edge into that bracket before installing the lower screws. I used an ice pick to line up the holes while using a blade screwdriver to push the panel in its place to install the retaining screws. It took me about a half hour after I figured out what to do.

Remove ice tray and guard over moter. Un plug the 3 plugs and pull the entire motor assembly out. Use a screw driver to gently pry motor out. Snap in the new motor(the wiring was on the wrong side and the power cord coloring backwards on the replacement motor, but I snapped it in with the colors criss crossed and it worked). Re plug in the 3 plugs. Re mount mounting assembly, tray and then guard. Had a little trouble getting the tray back in. There is a little flap in the back that goes inside the tray. Other than that, a pretty easy fix.

Trouble shooting discovered no water going to into the unit, decided to replace water valve which fixed the problem.

I replaced the thermometer first and it started working again. I was convinced that the reason that it continued to break every 6mos was because no one had ever replaced the fan. The difficult part was getting to it. After trying to get in from the front and from the back I finally figured out that I had to take the bottom off and tilt it on its side. I was then able to get out the pin in the condenser and move it to the side. I could then reach the screws that held in the fan. I then decided to put the fan on the motor and when I was tapping it on with a hammer the back cracked. I attempted to fix it by taking apart the old motor and salvaging the parts but that didn't work. I had to buy another $85 part and take the whole thing apart again. It was easier the second time because I knew which screws and pins I had to remove and how to get to them. I very, very carefully tapped the fan onto the motor and now it is working fine. I will let you know if it is still working at Easter. If it is I will have done a better job than the 7or 8 repairmen who have fixed it in the past