KUIC15PLTS4 KitchenAid Ice Maker - Instructions

Unplugged the refrigerator then removed two vertical screws on the very back back of the control panel (the ones with the washers). Do not remove the four other vertical screws in the panel. The front plastic plate on control panel snaps off and there are two horizontal screws under the plate. Remove them and the control panel will drop down allowing access to the light switch. Unplug the two wires (one black and one white) from the old switch. Discard the old switch, snap the new one into place and reconnect the two wires. Snap the front plastic plate back into place, plug in the refrigerator and you are done! Problem solved with a new $16.00 switch and saved at least $75.00 or more from an appliance repair call. Thanks Part Select!

Removed lower plate on back of refridgerator and changed out fan. The video was great and made the repair a snap. Fan is quiet and no more overheating refridgerator.

Fast after a little help from a friend

A bit of a tight squeeze for my hands, but very basic as I followed the instructions and watched the installation video. I only had the fridge unplugged for about 20 min..The fridge is as quiet, as it was brand new. The only tool I needed was the 1/4 inch socket wrench. A portable lantern was very helpful as well. Runs very quiet now, like new! Thx!!!

Pretty much followed the how to video. Biggest pain was removing the screws to the bracket that houses the motor.

I determined it was the cutter grid because there was a broken wire on the existing one. They have to heat up and cut the ice. I ordered it and the part was at my house in 1 day. The cutter grid part was easy to install. The ice maker is working great now.

My husband watched the video on the repair and followed it step by step...works like a charm! The repair shop wanted 299.55 to fix it - the part was 79.00....big savings by doing it ourselves.

Remove ice tray and guard over moter. Un plug the 3 plugs and pull the entire motor assembly out. Use a screw driver to gently pry motor out. Snap in the new motor(the wiring was on the wrong side and the power cord coloring backwards on the replacement motor, but I snapped it in with the colors criss crossed and it worked). Re plug in the 3 plugs. Re mount mounting assembly, tray and then guard. Had a little trouble getting the tray back in. There is a little flap in the back that goes inside the tray. Other than that, a pretty easy fix.

Having read a few of the user reports like this one gave me the confidence to do this repair. The space was really tight, but one of the write ups suggested removing the frame and then replacing the motor on the frame. That was an excellent suggestion. The only difficulty I had was when I used the motor screws from the old motor to install the new motor. They were slightly longer and didn't tighten down all the way. So the first "test" resulted in still having a noisy fan motor because it was shaking around a bit. But, taking it back out and using the screws that came with the new motor did the trick. The refrigerator is now whisper quiet all the time. I also appreciated the conversion wiring harness in the kit that was simply plug and play for this new motor to my old refrigerator.

Had repair man out to make repair his price for part $219.00 and $271.00 labor as he was looking up his price I got on line and found part here for $121.00 thought it might take me 1 hour to fix only 6- 1/4" nuts 2 screws and less than 30 min I had Ice maker working. Bottom line my total cost $75.00 repar man $121.00 part $196.00 that was a savings of $294.00

The thumbscrews that hold the cutter grid can only be removed by using a needle nose pliers , you cannot turn them by hand. The electrical connections for the grid and level sensor can be removed by pressing the front side of the connector while pulling down. Re-installing the cutter grid is in reverse to the removal, just follow the instructions. But be aware that all wiring remains outside the grid perimeter when reconnecting. One other thing: While you are at it, remove the lower outside panel to expose the evaporator coils which need to be vacuumed. Replacing these parts is tricky. I had to remove the door then loosely install the upper retainer bracket for the lower panel so I could slide the upper edge into that bracket before installing the lower screws. I used an ice pick to line up the holes while using a blade screwdriver to push the panel in its place to install the retaining screws. It took me about a half hour after I figured out what to do.

fan motor housing had to be drilled through both sides of housing to attach to existing bracket. Possible damage to wiring inside the unit may disable condensor fan motor when motherboard is replaced. (Motherboard on order.)

Using a 1/4" ratchet removed the old motor, a bit difficult due to small space to get your hand and ratchet in position. Before installing the new motor I used one of the screws to tap the the 3 holes in the new motor so it would be easier to start the screws attaching motor to mounting bracket. Attached cable. plugged in the fridge. Great to hear a quit running refrigerator again.

I pulled the back panel covering the fan and condenser off the refrigerator (just a few screws) and disconnected the fan which was a simple plug. The fan was held in place with three screws which I took out. I pulled out the old fan and replaced it with the new one, three screws to secure it in place and reconnect the fan plug. Then simply replace the back panel and plug the frig in. the fan silently started right up. Good as new and no service call! :)

Unplugged the refridgerator and pulled the rear cover. Had to take the fan blade off in order to get at the screws holding the existing motor in place. Removed the old fan. Pressing the new plastic fan onto the new motor shaft was a little more effort than expected, but I guess it won't come off. I have large hands so mounting the new unit was a little bit of a challenge getting the small screws started. Once the three screws were tightened all I had to do is plug the electrical connector in and replace the rear cover. I was happy that the existing electrical connector was the right one for the new motor too, and that I didn't have to use the provided wire harness. All in all the repair went pretty well.