KUIC15NLTS4 KitchenAid Ice Maker - Instructions

Unplugged the fridge first then took the bottom panel off with a 1/4 inch nut driver. Disconnected the wiring & used my ratchet to reach the 3 screws that held the motor. Took me longer to clean the bottom of the fridge then the installation.

stopped the fan and noise stopped ordered fan motor and fan with interface cable. Using 1/4 inch nut driver to remove screws from motor bracket installed new motor and runs like new.

I suggest following video supplied with order confirmation perfect fit

Remove the cardboard back cover and the vertical metal strip, all the screws are the same on the back. Remove the front bottom cover, those screws are all the same but longer. The tubing is bad because they tucked it in on the side and it rubbed and wore a hole in it. Remove the tubing nut. You may notice that there is an insert in the tubing, but the new tubing has no insert because it is thicker walled and does not the insert because it is stronger. The nut and compression ring are one piece. Open the front door and pull the tube out of the metal plate to the left, and cut the tube off at the end to remove the metal ring, and to make it easier to pull it out. Pull the tube out from the back, but first carefully remove the sticky gray putty, and put it aside. You might also bend the copper line to the right a little if it is putting pressure on the tube at the top of the unit. Now pull the tubing out, and use it to make the new tube the proper length, You might also want to first tape the new tube to the old tube to fish it through. I did not. It was tricky fishing the tube in from the back of the unit to the resevoir. If you do it my way, then aim it to the right. I got it on the second try and felt lucky. Once you get the tube in there, put the metal ring back on the new tube, and press it into the metal plate to the right. You can feel the groove and hole in the metal plate. I think the metal ring goes under the plate, but honestly I don't think you need the ring on the new tube because it has a thicker wall and is stiffer, so it won't pop out. Make sure you put the putty back in once you have completely installed the tubing. I think this is important to keep the tubing from sweating and to help keep the ice bin cold, like insulation. Do not put the tubing back along the left side of the unit, or you will be replacing it again, but maybe not with the thicker walled tubing. When you are all done, check to make sure your sump pump works by pouring water into the ice tub, if it is plugged in and you do not hear the pump, or the water backs up, then your pump may be bad. I also pulled a piece of white plastic out of the clear tubing just above the pump and never did find where that came from, but it would have been from the ice bin. I then ran a cleaning cycle and the instructions say if there was water still in the resevoir, then do another cleaning. My resevoir was full, so I did another cleaning. IF YOUR RESEVOIR IS FULL, THEN YOU NEED A NEW UPPER PUMP! Mine is on order. Mine was full after both cleanings, and after trying to make ice, I realized what the problem was. It could be that it is very clogged, but they don't appear to be serviceable, and I never heard it try to run. I did hear the lower pump, compressor, and fan all run previously, so I hope that when the new pump is installed, the unit is not low on refrigerant or anything like that. Fingers crossed, and good luck.

Removed and replaced sensor

I replaced the two pumps, since both were the same design...figuring if one went bad then the other would soon go bad...and then I also replace the water level sensor. All had quick connect plugs. The time is just taking apart the various pieces, cleaning, installing the new pumps and sensor, then reassembling.

replaced handle

Remove ice tray and guard over moter. Un plug the 3 plugs and pull the entire motor assembly out. Use a screw driver to gently pry motor out. Snap in the new motor(the wiring was on the wrong side and the power cord coloring backwards on the replacement motor, but I snapped it in with the colors criss crossed and it worked). Re plug in the 3 plugs. Re mount mounting assembly, tray and then guard. Had a little trouble getting the tray back in. There is a little flap in the back that goes inside the tray. Other than that, a pretty easy fix.

Remove pump and hoses from bad bucket, removed bucket and install new bucket . To remove pump, remove screw holding pump and turn pump 1/4 turn. Be careful Putting new bucket back, can break hose if not careful. Good luck

Trouble shooting discovered no water going to into the unit, decided to replace water valve which fixed the problem.

I replaced the thermometer first and it started working again. I was convinced that the reason that it continued to break every 6mos was because no one had ever replaced the fan. The difficult part was getting to it. After trying to get in from the front and from the back I finally figured out that I had to take the bottom off and tilt it on its side. I was then able to get out the pin in the condenser and move it to the side. I could then reach the screws that held in the fan. I then decided to put the fan on the motor and when I was tapping it on with a hammer the back cracked. I attempted to fix it by taking apart the old motor and salvaging the parts but that didn't work. I had to buy another $85 part and take the whole thing apart again. It was easier the second time because I knew which screws and pins I had to remove and how to get to them. I very, very carefully tapped the fan onto the motor and now it is working fine. I will let you know if it is still working at Easter. If it is I will have done a better job than the 7or 8 repairmen who have fixed it in the past

The thumbscrews that hold the cutter grid can only be removed by using a needle nose pliers , you cannot turn them by hand. The electrical connections for the grid and level sensor can be removed by pressing the front side of the connector while pulling down. Re-installing the cutter grid is in reverse to the removal, just follow the instructions. But be aware that all wiring remains outside the grid perimeter when reconnecting. One other thing: While you are at it, remove the lower outside panel to expose the evaporator coils which need to be vacuumed. Replacing these parts is tricky. I had to remove the door then loosely install the upper retainer bracket for the lower panel so I could slide the upper edge into that bracket before installing the lower screws. I used an ice pick to line up the holes while using a blade screwdriver to push the panel in its place to install the retaining screws. It took me about a half hour after I figured out what to do.

Remove back panel on unit locate condenser fan and motor remove three small screws holding motor assembly to metal bracket disconnect electrical connection press new fan blade on new motor reverse directions

Figured out You have to pop off the cocer than remove the 1/4 hex head screws only not the philips ones

Unplug A C Cord . Simply unscrewed lower back cardboard cover panel and unscrewed condenser fan motor , removed wiring plug , pulled fan motor out removed fan blade and put it on new motor . then I Reinstalled motor. Noise is gone . EASY INSTALLATION .