KUIO18NNVS3 KitchenAid Ice Maker - Instructions

I thought the water bucket wasn't holding water because the icemaker continually was running - however, the crack didn't go through. The real issue was the Thermostat.

You've got to be able to sit or kneel and fit both arms in the unit for a while, so if you've got patience and ability, you can do it. If you have a battery operated screw driver with a nut and 6 star nut remover, this goes quicker.
Do not throw your old plug away, it doesn't come with a new one.

The hard part was getting the black thing (that attaches to the icebucket) back on. I had to go to Lowes and get a gasket and silicone grease to replace the one on it. I thought this was the reason it wouldn't go back on, because the gasket wouldn't fully fit back into the white hole.
I measured the diameter of that hole compared to the old one. It was slightly smaller and was not as smooth as my old one (it had manufacturing form lines and excess plastic that hadn't been removed)
I Dremeled it to increase the diameter, especially where the gasket was buckling out when trying to fit it on.
I finally got the black part back on.

I found later that it was cheaper somewhere else, however shipping charges are less and most parts are next day delivery.
I just ordered the thermostat. Wish me luck!

The real difficulty is removing the screws. Even with a nut driver the space available makes them difficult to remove. I went to the hardware store and replaced the screws with screwdriver slots for re-installation.

I took out old grid and removed the top broken wire. I attached the end of new wire to the terminal screw and carefully threaded the new wire back and forth without kinks. I was not able to get wire as tight as it was originally, but able to get it tight enough with pliers. I attached the other end to the opposite terminal screw. I had plenty of wire for the job and cut off the excess. I re-installed the grid and had ice the following morning. Feeling good about myself and saved a lot of money.

Found fault with recirculating pump. Found hot spot on pump circuit board . Replaced pump

Removed broke wire and replaced new wire. Use gloves to pull the wire tight. That's very important.

I replaced the two pumps, since both were the same design...figuring if one went bad then the other would soon go bad...and then I also replace the water level sensor. All had quick connect plugs. The time is just taking apart the various pieces, cleaning, installing the new pumps and sensor, then reassembling.

Bought new wire, strung it end to end and fastened it at each end.

Trouble shooting discovered no water going to into the unit, decided to replace water valve which fixed the problem.

The thumbscrews that hold the cutter grid can only be removed by using a needle nose pliers , you cannot turn them by hand. The electrical connections for the grid and level sensor can be removed by pressing the front side of the connector while pulling down. Re-installing the cutter grid is in reverse to the removal, just follow the instructions. But be aware that all wiring remains outside the grid perimeter when reconnecting. One other thing: While you are at it, remove the lower outside panel to expose the evaporator coils which need to be vacuumed. Replacing these parts is tricky. I had to remove the door then loosely install the upper retainer bracket for the lower panel so I could slide the upper edge into that bracket before installing the lower screws. I used an ice pick to line up the holes while using a blade screwdriver to push the panel in its place to install the retaining screws. It took me about a half hour after I figured out what to do.

Unplugged the refrigerator then removed two vertical screws on the very back back of the control panel (the ones with the washers). Do not remove the four other vertical screws in the panel. The front plastic plate on control panel snaps off and there are two horizontal screws under the plate. Remove them and the control panel will drop down allowing access to the light switch. Unplug the two wires (one black and one white) from the old switch. Discard the old switch, snap the new one into place and reconnect the two wires. Snap the front plastic plate back into place, plug in the refrigerator and you are done! Problem solved with a new $16.00 switch and saved at least $75.00 or more from an appliance repair call. Thanks Part Select!

Removed old assembly by disconnecting 2 wiring harness connections and loosening 2 screws with nutdriver. Installed new assembly using same process. Had ice in about an hour. Very easy.

Figured out You have to pop off the cocer than remove the 1/4 hex head screws only not the philips ones

I determined it was the cutter grid because there was a broken wire on the existing one. They have to heat up and cut the ice. I ordered it and the part was at my house in 1 day. The cutter grid part was easy to install. The ice maker is working great now.

Wires in cutter grid were broken and wouldn't freeze/cut ice. Replaced with the new ice cutter grid that came completely assembled. Put it in with a screwdriver in less than 10 minutes. Ice cubes ready in 45 minutes. Repair guy told me it would be $455 for him to repair it. With shipping, mine was $133 and 10 minutes of my time. Well worth doing it myself.

Took out one strap support with a nut driver, unplugged the device and plugged in the new one. Reinstalled the support strap. Job complete.