KUIA18PNLS4 KitchenAid Ice Maker - Instructions

Removed broke wire and replaced new wire. Use gloves to pull the wire tight. That's very important.

(1) Ordered PS371704 from PartSelect! Best advice EVER! (2) Unplugged refrigerator (since the water solenoid on the back of the refrigerator is powered to switch ON the water, you NEVER have to turn off the water!) (3) Pull off the refrigerator's bottom grill. (4) With a small saucer under the fittings, unscrew the black and white tube fitting. There is only one nut to remove on the white tubing side. You'll need to undo the compression fitting on the black tubing and slide off the compression nut. You'll need to MAKE SURE you keep these nuts and replace onto the black and white tubing the SAME WAY you took them off. You'll NOT need to use nut drivers as finger tight is the key. Too hard and you'll ruin these plastic nuts. You should get only about 1/8 cup or less of water during this whole exercise. (5) Cut off the old, broken water nozzle. (4) Find a screw of the appropriate size to fit tightly 1/2 way inside the new tubing (this is to ensure your old and new tubing are connected to feed through the door). If screw is not tight within the tubing, wrap part of a plastic (thin) sack around this screw a couple of times and force into the tubing. You'll, of course, then need to use the hacksaw to cut the head off the screw as you'll be forcing the other half of the screw into the old cut tubing (6) Chase the dog out of the kitchen and cajole your wife (significant other) to push the newly joined tubes through the top of the dispenser, through the door and out the bottom as you will be gently PULLING on this old tubing from the bottom until the new tubing pops through the doors bottom. (7) Once this new tubing is out, you will separate the old tubing and, using the nuts in the proper sequence, connect this new tubing to the white tubing. (8) Plug the refrigerator back in and test flow the water. Check to ensure the plastic nuts have no leakage ... button up the bottom grill ... and enjoy the fresh water! PS> Don't forget to praise the wife (significant other) and give the dog a treat for staying out of your face!!

Unplugged the unit. Removed 2 screws to remove front cover to access the cutter grid.removed 2 screws to the cutter grid, unsnapped power connector and removed broken grid. Slid new grid in place, reconnected power connector, replaced screws, plugged in ice maker and slid back in place. Very easy!!!

Figured out You have to pop off the cocer than remove the 1/4 hex head screws only not the philips ones

It was worth the money for that little screw, since I didn't have to run all over trying to find the right one.

Took out one strap support with a nut driver, unplugged the device and plugged in the new one. Reinstalled the support strap. Job complete.

I undid the bottom screws off the bottom front of the ice machine under the door... Knowing the water valve was at the front it made it super easy to get to and I didn't have to pull the machine out from under the counter etc. Turned off the water supply at the wall, disconnected that line at the valve, removed the line from the valve to the water reservoir. Unscrewed two screws that held it to the machine wall and put the new valve in, reconnected both lines and voila! Done! Running like its never run before. I filled up that reservoir for weeks by hand many times a day so the satisfaction is huge to have saved a fortune by fixing it myself! And I'm female which makes it even more satisfying. A monkey could put this part in. Anything a man can fix, I can fix too! Ha!

This causes more than one problem. When the system does not get enough water it makes thin ice. When the ice is thin it does not have the mass to slide down on to the cutting grid and stops about half way down. When the pump starts running again, the water hits the ice sheet that did not make it to the grid and water goes all over the place thus emptying the reservoir then it makes no ice. Water was entering very slowly into the reservoir with very little pressure. Changed the water valve and now pressure is higher and fills the reservoir completely enough to flush the reservoir as it is supposed to do. Works great and makes plenty of ice now. Just take the front bottom cover off by the 4 screws holding it on and look to the left and you will see the water valve. Get the vacuum cleaner and clean the condenser coils while you have it open.

Wires in cutter grid were broken and wouldn't freeze/cut ice. Replaced with the new ice cutter grid that came completely assembled. Put it in with a screwdriver in less than 10 minutes. Ice cubes ready in 45 minutes. Repair guy told me it would be $455 for him to repair it. With shipping, mine was $133 and 10 minutes of my time. Well worth doing it myself.

It was easy to remove the old grid and replace it with a new one.

Checked Overload Start Relay With Volt Ohm Meter&Replaced Them Easy And Simple Repair

This repair was super easy. there are only 5 screws to remove to get at the defective switch. 3 in the housing where the light bulbs are and 2 in the front trim piece where the cooling adjustment dials are. I never did unplug the fridge ,but probably should have although nothing bad happened. I removed all 5 screws using a 1/4" socket ( a nutdriver would work well also). there is also a small dia rod that comes down from the coolness adj. wheel that when you re-assemble goes though the middle of the wheel. The switch has only 2 wires that clip on with the push on flat type connectors. Very simple. I removed the wires and then the switch can be removed( it is only held in by 2 squeezable side clips). I put the new switch in and connected the wires , checked to see that the lights went on and off. which they did. then just put the screws back in.....done. also I would like to say that when I ordered my switch it came super fast. I ordered it online at 11:00am on a tuesday and it was on my doorstep in wisconsin by 10:00 am the next day...Thanks

The repair was simple. Unplug the refrigerator, unplug the power connector from the fan and remove 3 screws. I removed the fan blade clip with the pliers and cleaned it off. Reversed the process, cleaned all the dust out with my shop vac and all works perfectly now. It took longer to pull the fridge out of it's normal position than to perform the repair. Every day it continues to work is one more day I don't spend $2000 or more on a replacement.

Over a period of weeks I watched my fridge grand to a halt. It was...saddening. I felt helpless, there was nothing I could do and I wasn't prepared to pull in a repairman. Upon it's departure from being affective (broke) I made up my mind to purchase a new one!! Flash-forward five minutes n the internet ...motivator by high costs, I altered my thinking and visited You Tube for a fix-it video. After a quick search I came across a clip that took me to the heart of the problem. It was THAT easy. Wow!! I followed the instructions and quickly learned the failure had to do with a small, light weight fan that's role was to pull heat from the condenser--it had ceased to work. While waiting for the part, I let a small fan blow on the condenser to dissipate the heat. The fridge roared to life!! Like a charm!! When the new fan body arrived I placed the blade from the old fan on it and installed it (the fan did not come with bolts and the holes were not threaded) using sheet metal screws. It immediately came started performing again and has been doing a superb job ever since. I easily saved $800 in costs going this route!!

Removed the back lower cover, behind the fridge. Uncliped the wiring. Removed the motor, (3 Screws).I did check the new motor before removal of the old one, to verify the older motor was the problem. After removal of the fan & motor. Removed the fan and placed it on the new motor, three screws later, plugged up the wiring, (I didn't changout the wiring, and the Refrigerator is good as new.