KUIC15NLSS0 KitchenAid Ice Maker - Instructions

I surfed partselect and read that a reader had a similar problem with a rattling fan. I then removed the back panel, after I had unplugged the unit, and was able to feel the slop in the fan shaft. I then watched the video of how to replace the fan and ordered the part soon after. The part arrived 3 days later! Easy to do. I was finished in 12 minutes and the fridge runs silently. The part of the job that took the longest was vaccuming the undercarriage. There was alot of dust! Couldn't have helped the efficiency on the fridge. Keep it clean.

It was easy to remove the old grid and replace it with a new one.

Checked Overload Start Relay With Volt Ohm Meter&Replaced Them Easy And Simple Repair

Pulled out the Fridge. Removed the plug. Removed the back panel screws with nut driver. Vacuumed the coils & fan area. Disconnected the fan cable. Used a socket and thumb ratchet to remove the 3 mounting screws from its sheet metal bracket. Slid the old fan assembly out. Assembled the new Fan blade onto the new motor shaft and attached the adapter cable to the fan connector. Slid the assembly into place and reattached with 3 screws using socket and thumb ratchet. Connected adapter cable to fridge harness and plugged in the power cord to test the fan. With it working Quietly and knowing the the problem was solved, the back panel was reattached.

This repair was super easy. there are only 5 screws to remove to get at the defective switch. 3 in the housing where the light bulbs are and 2 in the front trim piece where the cooling adjustment dials are. I never did unplug the fridge ,but probably should have although nothing bad happened. I removed all 5 screws using a 1/4" socket ( a nutdriver would work well also). there is also a small dia rod that comes down from the coolness adj. wheel that when you re-assemble goes though the middle of the wheel. The switch has only 2 wires that clip on with the push on flat type connectors. Very simple. I removed the wires and then the switch can be removed( it is only held in by 2 squeezable side clips). I put the new switch in and connected the wires , checked to see that the lights went on and off. which they did. then just put the screws back in.....done. also I would like to say that when I ordered my switch it came super fast. I ordered it online at 11:00am on a tuesday and it was on my doorstep in wisconsin by 10:00 am the next day...Thanks

Using a 1/4" ratchet removed the old motor, a bit difficult due to small space to get your hand and ratchet in position. Before installing the new motor I used one of the screws to tap the the 3 holes in the new motor so it would be easier to start the screws attaching motor to mounting bracket. Attached cable. plugged in the fridge. Great to hear a quit running refrigerator again.

1 Turn off ice maker and drain water reseviour (cap at bottom of reseviour) 2. Remove internal ice storage door to give you more working room 3. Remove water resevious (two screws on either side of reseviour) and disconnect plastic tubing in reseviour 4. Remove cover shield at top that covers the ice cutting mechanism (two screws at bottom of cover 3. Remove cover shield covering pump (1 screw) 4. Remove small plastic tubing on side of pump (this part is a little tricky) 5. Remove the three screws holding pump to unit (one at back and two on the side (one in front of pump and one in back of pump) 6. Disconnect power supply to pump 7. Remove pump and replace

I determined the pump was not working by running the ice maker. After it started a cycle, I could fell the underside of the cold plate to insure it was indeed cold, but no water was flowing.
First, be sure the water pump electrical plug is in., it releases by pressing together the tabs at the ends, not sides.
To replace the pump, turn off the water supply and cover the drain hole at the bottom of the ice bin so you don’t drop parts down it. The screw-plug at the bottom of the water tank or a quarter will do.
Remove the water tank below the pump by taking out the thumbscrews at both ends. You can then see the hose at the bottom of the pump. If it is off, that may be the problem.
To remove the pump, pull the fill hose to the left out of the slot and bend it behind the pump to get it out of the way. Unplug the electrical connector and the pump hose. There are three ¼” hex head screws, teo on the side wall, one in back. The middle one is the hardest to access. I used both a nut driver and a socket wrench with a 4” extension.
When installing the new pump, be sure to plug in the electrical connector, the discharge hose at the bottom and position the fill tube as you found it. Forget any of these and nothing works. Re-install the water tank, replace the drain plug and turn on the water supply, in that order.

fan motor housing had to be drilled through both sides of housing to attach to existing bracket. Possible damage to wiring inside the unit may disable condensor fan motor when motherboard is replaced. (Motherboard on order.)

My husband watched the video on the repair and followed it step by step...works like a charm! The repair shop wanted 299.55 to fix it - the part was 79.00....big savings by doing it ourselves.

The thumbscrews that hold the cutter grid can only be removed by using a needle nose pliers , you cannot turn them by hand. The electrical connections for the grid and level sensor can be removed by pressing the front side of the connector while pulling down. Re-installing the cutter grid is in reverse to the removal, just follow the instructions. But be aware that all wiring remains outside the grid perimeter when reconnecting. One other thing: While you are at it, remove the lower outside panel to expose the evaporator coils which need to be vacuumed. Replacing these parts is tricky. I had to remove the door then loosely install the upper retainer bracket for the lower panel so I could slide the upper edge into that bracket before installing the lower screws. I used an ice pick to line up the holes while using a blade screwdriver to push the panel in its place to install the retaining screws. It took me about a half hour after I figured out what to do.

I tried WD40, it worked for a day. Got a new part from PartSelect.com and was a good brand. Panasonic. Easy fix and works great. Saved a bundle. I priced a new fridge, no way, this was better. Thank you Partselect.

Remove inside door trim plate. Then removed three screws that held in the light assembly. The only difficult thing was reconnecting the temperature adjustment rod. After replacing this rod you must slide the temperature control slide to midway and this hold the rod in place while reinstalling the light assembly. If I were to do it again it would probably take me half as long.

Unplugged the refridgerator and pulled the rear cover. Had to take the fan blade off in order to get at the screws holding the existing motor in place. Removed the old fan. Pressing the new plastic fan onto the new motor shaft was a little more effort than expected, but I guess it won't come off. I have large hands so mounting the new unit was a little bit of a challenge getting the small screws started. Once the three screws were tightened all I had to do is plug the electrical connector in and replace the rear cover. I was happy that the existing electrical connector was the right one for the new motor too, and that I didn't have to use the provided wire harness. All in all the repair went pretty well.

The repair went just fine. Your instruction regarding using the wiring harness were clear. Most of all I am happy to not have to listen to a noisy motor all night.