KUIA18PNLS2 KitchenAid Ice Maker - Instructions

Unplugged the unit. Removed 2 screws to remove front cover to access the cutter grid.removed 2 screws to the cutter grid, unsnapped power connector and removed broken grid. Slid new grid in place, reconnected power connector, replaced screws, plugged in ice maker and slid back in place. Very easy!!!

Remove the cardboard back cover and the vertical metal strip, all the screws are the same on the back. Remove the front bottom cover, those screws are all the same but longer. The tubing is bad because they tucked it in on the side and it rubbed and wore a hole in it. Remove the tubing nut. You may notice that there is an insert in the tubing, but the new tubing has no insert because it is thicker walled and does not the insert because it is stronger. The nut and compression ring are one piece. Open the front door and pull the tube out of the metal plate to the left, and cut the tube off at the end to remove the metal ring, and to make it easier to pull it out. Pull the tube out from the back, but first carefully remove the sticky gray putty, and put it aside. You might also bend the copper line to the right a little if it is putting pressure on the tube at the top of the unit. Now pull the tubing out, and use it to make the new tube the proper length, You might also want to first tape the new tube to the old tube to fish it through. I did not. It was tricky fishing the tube in from the back of the unit to the resevoir. If you do it my way, then aim it to the right. I got it on the second try and felt lucky. Once you get the tube in there, put the metal ring back on the new tube, and press it into the metal plate to the right. You can feel the groove and hole in the metal plate. I think the metal ring goes under the plate, but honestly I don't think you need the ring on the new tube because it has a thicker wall and is stiffer, so it won't pop out. Make sure you put the putty back in once you have completely installed the tubing. I think this is important to keep the tubing from sweating and to help keep the ice bin cold, like insulation. Do not put the tubing back along the left side of the unit, or you will be replacing it again, but maybe not with the thicker walled tubing. When you are all done, check to make sure your sump pump works by pouring water into the ice tub, if it is plugged in and you do not hear the pump, or the water backs up, then your pump may be bad. I also pulled a piece of white plastic out of the clear tubing just above the pump and never did find where that came from, but it would have been from the ice bin. I then ran a cleaning cycle and the instructions say if there was water still in the resevoir, then do another cleaning. My resevoir was full, so I did another cleaning. IF YOUR RESEVOIR IS FULL, THEN YOU NEED A NEW UPPER PUMP! Mine is on order. Mine was full after both cleanings, and after trying to make ice, I realized what the problem was. It could be that it is very clogged, but they don't appear to be serviceable, and I never heard it try to run. I did hear the lower pump, compressor, and fan all run previously, so I hope that when the new pump is installed, the unit is not low on refrigerant or anything like that. Fingers crossed, and good luck.

Remove inside door trim plate. Then removed three screws that held in the light assembly. The only difficult thing was reconnecting the temperature adjustment rod. After replacing this rod you must slide the temperature control slide to midway and this hold the rod in place while reinstalling the light assembly. If I were to do it again it would probably take me half as long.

Disconnect water line and power cord, Remove scoop holder, water reservoir and shield around pump to access pump, removed hose connected to pump then removed pump (3- 1/4" hex screws) and disconnected wire harness and 1/4" plastic water line attached to pump bracket, reverse process

Once I determined easier access to the fan motor, I removed the three fan motor screws that held the motor on place. After removing the motor I remove the fan blade assembly held by one nut and reattached to the new motor. I then reattached the new motor with 3 new screws which were provide and reattached the power cord with the cord clip and began reassembling the icemaker housing, then moved the unit back in place which was installed under counter. I could do this repair in less than 45 minutes now that I have done it once. I saved several hundred $ from the original estimate and the parts were delivered in 2 days after I ordered online. This is definitely a DIY project!!

Pulled refrigerator away fom wall. Removed cardboard cover at back bottom to reveal fan motor.The space available to remove the motor from the bracket is very limited, so smaller hands will be a plus! Tried to get a nut wrench on motor but there was hardly enough room. Finally was able to use a socket set to remove bolts. I would suggest you spray a solvent on the motor mount bolts and seat them in the new motor first. It was near to impossible to get them started in the mount, without seating them first. The electrical clip that connects to the motor fit on the new motor, so I did not have to splice any wiring. This made the job a little easier. Finally, replaced cardboard cover and moved refrigerator back against the wall. .

Insalled fan motor,problem went away. Thanks

1. Unplug the refrigerator. 2. Remove the back cover at the bottom of the refrigerator. 3. Remove the two screws holding the vertical black bracket the fan is mounted to. This allows the bracket to move easily. The bracket does not have to be removed. 4. Removed the four screws holding the fan bracket to the vertical bracket. 5. Unplug the power connector from the fan motor. 6. Remove the entire fan bracket assembly from the refrigerator. 7. Remove the 4 screws holding the fan motor to the fan motor bracket and unmount the fan motor. 8. Remove the nut holding the fan blade to the fan motor and remove the fan blade. 9. Reverse the process, mounting the fan blade to the new motor, screw the motor to the bracket, screw the bracket to the vertical bracket, screw the vertical bracket to the refrigerator and plug the power connector back into the motor. I did not have to use any of the extra mounting hardware or electrical hardware provided with the kit. It might be a good idea to purchase a new fan blade with the motor kit, the fan blade can get pretty grungy. I cleaned the fan blade with some degreaser before remounting it.

Simple, remove water reservoir (2 screws). Remove pump cover (1 screw). Remove 2 screws on bracket holding pump and unplug pump. My wiring was somewhat corroded and it took a bit of pulling to unplug. When you replace with new motor make sure to snap in new plug snug or it will not start up. Reassemble and away you go.Making ice no problem.

Over a period of weeks I watched my fridge grand to a halt. It was...saddening. I felt helpless, there was nothing I could do and I wasn't prepared to pull in a repairman. Upon it's departure from being affective (broke) I made up my mind to purchase a new one!! Flash-forward five minutes n the internet ...motivator by high costs, I altered my thinking and visited You Tube for a fix-it video. After a quick search I came across a clip that took me to the heart of the problem. It was THAT easy. Wow!! I followed the instructions and quickly learned the failure had to do with a small, light weight fan that's role was to pull heat from the condenser--it had ceased to work. While waiting for the part, I let a small fan blow on the condenser to dissipate the heat. The fridge roared to life!! Like a charm!! When the new fan body arrived I placed the blade from the old fan on it and installed it (the fan did not come with bolts and the holes were not threaded) using sheet metal screws. It immediately came started performing again and has been doing a superb job ever since. I easily saved $800 in costs going this route!!

This repair was super easy. there are only 5 screws to remove to get at the defective switch. 3 in the housing where the light bulbs are and 2 in the front trim piece where the cooling adjustment dials are. I never did unplug the fridge ,but probably should have although nothing bad happened. I removed all 5 screws using a 1/4" socket ( a nutdriver would work well also). there is also a small dia rod that comes down from the coolness adj. wheel that when you re-assemble goes though the middle of the wheel. The switch has only 2 wires that clip on with the push on flat type connectors. Very simple. I removed the wires and then the switch can be removed( it is only held in by 2 squeezable side clips). I put the new switch in and connected the wires , checked to see that the lights went on and off. which they did. then just put the screws back in.....done. also I would like to say that when I ordered my switch it came super fast. I ordered it online at 11:00am on a tuesday and it was on my doorstep in wisconsin by 10:00 am the next day...Thanks

The repair was simple. Unplug the refrigerator, unplug the power connector from the fan and remove 3 screws. I removed the fan blade clip with the pliers and cleaned it off. Reversed the process, cleaned all the dust out with my shop vac and all works perfectly now. It took longer to pull the fridge out of it's normal position than to perform the repair. Every day it continues to work is one more day I don't spend $2000 or more on a replacement.

I undid the bottom screws off the bottom front of the ice machine under the door... Knowing the water valve was at the front it made it super easy to get to and I didn't have to pull the machine out from under the counter etc. Turned off the water supply at the wall, disconnected that line at the valve, removed the line from the valve to the water reservoir. Unscrewed two screws that held it to the machine wall and put the new valve in, reconnected both lines and voila! Done! Running like its never run before. I filled up that reservoir for weeks by hand many times a day so the satisfaction is huge to have saved a fortune by fixing it myself! And I'm female which makes it even more satisfying. A monkey could put this part in. Anything a man can fix, I can fix too! Ha!

This causes more than one problem. When the system does not get enough water it makes thin ice. When the ice is thin it does not have the mass to slide down on to the cutting grid and stops about half way down. When the pump starts running again, the water hits the ice sheet that did not make it to the grid and water goes all over the place thus emptying the reservoir then it makes no ice. Water was entering very slowly into the reservoir with very little pressure. Changed the water valve and now pressure is higher and fills the reservoir completely enough to flush the reservoir as it is supposed to do. Works great and makes plenty of ice now. Just take the front bottom cover off by the 4 screws holding it on and look to the left and you will see the water valve. Get the vacuum cleaner and clean the condenser coils while you have it open.

It was easy to remove the old grid and replace it with a new one.