KUIA15NLHS11 KitchenAid Ice Maker - Instructions

Remove ice tray and guard over moter. Un plug the 3 plugs and pull the entire motor assembly out. Use a screw driver to gently pry motor out. Snap in the new motor(the wiring was on the wrong side and the power cord coloring backwards on the replacement motor, but I snapped it in with the colors criss crossed and it worked). Re plug in the 3 plugs. Re mount mounting assembly, tray and then guard. Had a little trouble getting the tray back in. There is a little flap in the back that goes inside the tray. Other than that, a pretty easy fix.

Remove pump and hoses from bad bucket, removed bucket and install new bucket . To remove pump, remove screw holding pump and turn pump 1/4 turn. Be careful Putting new bucket back, can break hose if not careful. Good luck

I removed the inspection cover, removed 2 screws holding the control valve,depressed the realease rings on the water lines,unpluged the 2 electrical connections and removed the bad valve. I re-installed the water lines into the new part, reconnected the electrical plugs,replaced the 2 screws in the new valve keeper and replaced the inspection cover. Everything I received from partselect fit perfectly. Thank you partselect, the ice machine works great. I sure was glad you were there. Thanks,, alfred harvey

Took out one strap support with a nut driver, unplugged the device and plugged in the new one. Reinstalled the support strap. Job complete.

Wires in cutter grid were broken and wouldn't freeze/cut ice. Replaced with the new ice cutter grid that came completely assembled. Put it in with a screwdriver in less than 10 minutes. Ice cubes ready in 45 minutes. Repair guy told me it would be $455 for him to repair it. With shipping, mine was $133 and 10 minutes of my time. Well worth doing it myself.

Removal of old valve very easy and accessible, 2 screw/bolts for mounting, disconnect to electrical leads by hand, disconnect 2 plastic water lines with push/pull connectors and reverse order for installation. Total time-less than 5 minutes and basically no tools required expect pliers or nut drive to loosen screw/bolts. Just turn on and it was making ice

Checked Overload Start Relay With Volt Ohm Meter&Replaced Them Easy And Simple Repair

I determined it was the cutter grid because there was a broken wire on the existing one. They have to heat up and cut the ice. I ordered it and the part was at my house in 1 day. The cutter grid part was easy to install. The ice maker is working great now.

Removed lower vent cover and removed valve. Removed water lines and power hookups and attached to new unit. Approx. 15 Minutes total repair. Checked for leaks. Finished. Part select had replacement valve to my door within 24 hours. Great service and simple to understand installation instructions. Highly recommend.

Had repair man out to make repair his price for part $219.00 and $271.00 labor as he was looking up his price I got on line and found part here for $121.00 thought it might take me 1 hour to fix only 6- 1/4" nuts 2 screws and less than 30 min I had Ice maker working. Bottom line my total cost $75.00 repar man $121.00 part $196.00 that was a savings of $294.00

I removed the two screws that hold the shield in front of the grid and put them aside allowing access to the grid. I then removed the two screws that hold the grid in place. I unplugged the connector and then pulled it out. I reversed the process to reassemble and powered up the unit. I now have ice again. This whole process probably took me 15-20 minutes to do the install.

Bought new wire, strung it end to end and fastened it at each end.

Watched the video that was attached to my order confirmation (great idea) and just followed it step by step. Real easy repair since I had tried to fix the noise first without ordering parts, so I knew what I was doing Did a temporary fix which quieted it down while I waited for the parts and then the repair itself was pretty straight forward.

The thumbscrews that hold the cutter grid can only be removed by using a needle nose pliers , you cannot turn them by hand. The electrical connections for the grid and level sensor can be removed by pressing the front side of the connector while pulling down. Re-installing the cutter grid is in reverse to the removal, just follow the instructions. But be aware that all wiring remains outside the grid perimeter when reconnecting. One other thing: While you are at it, remove the lower outside panel to expose the evaporator coils which need to be vacuumed. Replacing these parts is tricky. I had to remove the door then loosely install the upper retainer bracket for the lower panel so I could slide the upper edge into that bracket before installing the lower screws. I used an ice pick to line up the holes while using a blade screwdriver to push the panel in its place to install the retaining screws. It took me about a half hour after I figured out what to do.

I replaced the thermometer first and it started working again. I was convinced that the reason that it continued to break every 6mos was because no one had ever replaced the fan. The difficult part was getting to it. After trying to get in from the front and from the back I finally figured out that I had to take the bottom off and tilt it on its side. I was then able to get out the pin in the condenser and move it to the side. I could then reach the screws that held in the fan. I then decided to put the fan on the motor and when I was tapping it on with a hammer the back cracked. I attempted to fix it by taking apart the old motor and salvaging the parts but that didn't work. I had to buy another $85 part and take the whole thing apart again. It was easier the second time because I knew which screws and pins I had to remove and how to get to them. I very, very carefully tapped the fan onto the motor and now it is working fine. I will let you know if it is still working at Easter. If it is I will have done a better job than the 7or 8 repairmen who have fixed it in the past