ZDIS15CSSN General Electric Ice Maker - Instructions

Figured out You have to pop off the cocer than remove the 1/4 hex head screws only not the philips ones

Watched the video that was attached to my order confirmation (great idea) and just followed it step by step. Real easy repair since I had tried to fix the noise first without ordering parts, so I knew what I was doing Did a temporary fix which quieted it down while I waited for the parts and then the repair itself was pretty straight forward.

Unplug A C Cord . Simply unscrewed lower back cardboard cover panel and unscrewed condenser fan motor , removed wiring plug , pulled fan motor out removed fan blade and put it on new motor . then I Reinstalled motor. Noise is gone . EASY INSTALLATION .

I determined it was the cutter grid because there was a broken wire on the existing one. They have to heat up and cut the ice. I ordered it and the part was at my house in 1 day. The cutter grid part was easy to install. The ice maker is working great now.

Since no ice was forming on the evaporator plate, I first checked to see if I was getting water. Water to reservoir was fine, but it was not moving from the reservoir. Pretty logical that something was wrong with the pump. I pulled pump out. It was locked up, with a significant amount of calcium buildup. Replaced it and all works fine. Great ice again.

Having read a few of the user reports like this one gave me the confidence to do this repair. The space was really tight, but one of the write ups suggested removing the frame and then replacing the motor on the frame. That was an excellent suggestion. The only difficulty I had was when I used the motor screws from the old motor to install the new motor. They were slightly longer and didn't tighten down all the way. So the first "test" resulted in still having a noisy fan motor because it was shaking around a bit. But, taking it back out and using the screws that came with the new motor did the trick. The refrigerator is now whisper quiet all the time. I also appreciated the conversion wiring harness in the kit that was simply plug and play for this new motor to my old refrigerator.

Disconnected power cord, removed rear cover of refrigerator, disconnected pig tail, removed 4 housing screws, took three mount screws out and removed old fan. Reversed steps, plugged in and complete repair done.

Remove back panel on unit locate condenser fan and motor remove three small screws holding motor assembly to metal bracket disconnect electrical connection press new fan blade on new motor reverse directions

I determined the pump was not working by running the ice maker. After it started a cycle, I could fell the underside of the cold plate to insure it was indeed cold, but no water was flowing.
First, be sure the water pump electrical plug is in., it releases by pressing together the tabs at the ends, not sides.
To replace the pump, turn off the water supply and cover the drain hole at the bottom of the ice bin so you don’t drop parts down it. The screw-plug at the bottom of the water tank or a quarter will do.
Remove the water tank below the pump by taking out the thumbscrews at both ends. You can then see the hose at the bottom of the pump. If it is off, that may be the problem.
To remove the pump, pull the fill hose to the left out of the slot and bend it behind the pump to get it out of the way. Unplug the electrical connector and the pump hose. There are three ¼” hex head screws, teo on the side wall, one in back. The middle one is the hardest to access. I used both a nut driver and a socket wrench with a 4” extension.
When installing the new pump, be sure to plug in the electrical connector, the discharge hose at the bottom and position the fill tube as you found it. Forget any of these and nothing works. Re-install the water tank, replace the drain plug and turn on the water supply, in that order.

1 Turn off ice maker and drain water reseviour (cap at bottom of reseviour) 2. Remove internal ice storage door to give you more working room 3. Remove water resevious (two screws on either side of reseviour) and disconnect plastic tubing in reseviour 4. Remove cover shield at top that covers the ice cutting mechanism (two screws at bottom of cover 3. Remove cover shield covering pump (1 screw) 4. Remove small plastic tubing on side of pump (this part is a little tricky) 5. Remove the three screws holding pump to unit (one at back and two on the side (one in front of pump and one in back of pump) 6. Disconnect power supply to pump 7. Remove pump and replace

fan motor housing had to be drilled through both sides of housing to attach to existing bracket. Possible damage to wiring inside the unit may disable condensor fan motor when motherboard is replaced. (Motherboard on order.)

My husband watched the video on the repair and followed it step by step...works like a charm! The repair shop wanted 299.55 to fix it - the part was 79.00....big savings by doing it ourselves.

The thumbscrews that hold the cutter grid can only be removed by using a needle nose pliers , you cannot turn them by hand. The electrical connections for the grid and level sensor can be removed by pressing the front side of the connector while pulling down. Re-installing the cutter grid is in reverse to the removal, just follow the instructions. But be aware that all wiring remains outside the grid perimeter when reconnecting. One other thing: While you are at it, remove the lower outside panel to expose the evaporator coils which need to be vacuumed. Replacing these parts is tricky. I had to remove the door then loosely install the upper retainer bracket for the lower panel so I could slide the upper edge into that bracket before installing the lower screws. I used an ice pick to line up the holes while using a blade screwdriver to push the panel in its place to install the retaining screws. It took me about a half hour after I figured out what to do.

Removed lower plate on back of refridgerator and changed out fan. The video was great and made the repair a snap. Fan is quiet and no more overheating refridgerator.

Unplugged the refrigerator then removed two vertical screws on the very back back of the control panel (the ones with the washers). Do not remove the four other vertical screws in the panel. The front plastic plate on control panel snaps off and there are two horizontal screws under the plate. Remove them and the control panel will drop down allowing access to the light switch. Unplug the two wires (one black and one white) from the old switch. Discard the old switch, snap the new one into place and reconnect the two wires. Snap the front plastic plate back into place, plug in the refrigerator and you are done! Problem solved with a new $16.00 switch and saved at least $75.00 or more from an appliance repair call. Thanks Part Select!