Models > GSS22IBTC

GSS22IBTC General Electric Refrigerator

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The temperature sensor, also referred to as a thermistor, is used to monitor the refrigerator and freezer internal temperatures. The sensor is a small capsule like device that is protected by a white ...
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This genuine OEM part is the right side of the slide rail for the crisper drawer in your refrigerator. This rail is attached to your fridge wall with two screws and will require a Philips screwdriver ...
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This drawer slide rail is a genuine OEM replacement part for the crisper drawer shelf in your refrigerator. This rail is for the left-hand side of the shelf assembly. If you need to replace both sides...
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This dual heater kit replaces the single heater. It's redesigned to use two heating elements for a better defrost cycle.
On Order
$37.35
This authentic OEM part is a clear plastic dairy door for your refrigerator. It is found on the interior of the fridge door and rotates open and closed so that you can access the dairy compartment. If...
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The vegetable drawer, also known as a crisper drawer, is used to keep fresh produce at the optimal temperature and humidity level. These drawers can become damaged over time from regular wear and tear...
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This grommet is found on both the front and back of the fan motor assembly for the condenser and the evaporator in your fridge. It is used to provide a buffer between the fan motor and the mounting br...
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This is a drawer slide rail for the right side of your refrigerator. It is located on the bottom of the unit, mounted to the right side of the cabinet wall. The purpose of this part is to hold the she...
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This fan motor is most times used with frost-free refrigerators with a condenser coil. When the compressor runs, so does this fan, circulating air through the refrigerator grille, cooling the compress...
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This evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer, and circulates air over the refrigerator coils. These coils will convert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated. Note: Therm...
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$15.26
This genuine OEM replacement part is a bumper for your refrigerator. The bumper is made of orange rubber and measures less than half an inch in diameter. The bumper is used to prevent the fan motor fr...
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This drawer slide rail is for the left side of the refrigerator, and allows the bottom shelf to slide in and out. If your refrigerator door will not close, or the bottom drawer will not slide properly...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for GSS22IBTC

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Fridge too warm
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Noisy
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Freezer section too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Fridge too cold
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Will Not Start
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Door won’t open or close
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Frost buildup
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Freezer too cold
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Too warm
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Fridge runs too long
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Clicking sound
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Ice maker not making ice
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Light not working
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Not dispensing water
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Leaking
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Doesn’t stop running
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Too cold
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Won’t start
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Customer:
Gerald from San Clemente, CA
Parts Used:
WR55X10025, WR02X10552
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Fridge too warm, evaporator icing up
After replacing the defrost heater, main board and thermistor I still had the same problem. Called a repair guy and he (with the help of GE on the phone) diagnosed that the temperature sensor was bad. So I ordered from partselect and installed it and it fixed the problem. Been good for a couple months (knocking on wood). To install I had to cut the 2 wires to the old sensor, crimp the 2 new wires on and snap the new sensor to the clip on the evaporator. Very easy. Make sure you seal the ends of the wire crimps so moisture doesn't get in and corrode the connection.
606 of 738 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Stuart from Lynchburg, VA
Parts Used:
WR51X10101
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Defrost Heater blows out, refrigerator frosts up, then stops cooling
Disclaimer - if you aren't confident about doing this repair, call a repair specialist in. Also, take care not to damage the freezer coils as they have refrigerant in them that I'm told is harmful if it leaks. It may also be under pressure. The instructions that follow won't require you to touch the coils. There is no need to unplug the r efrigerator or disconnect the water supply to do this repair. The screw driver you will need is a phillips (the one withe the + head).

1st, take out your frozen food (which, if you need to do this repair may not be frozen) and put it in a cooler or the refrigerator.
2nd, remove the ice cube bucket and dump the ice cubes in the cooler to help keep the frozen food cool. Turn the ice cube maker off.
3rd, remove the freezer shelves.
4th, locate the panel covering the freezer coils. It's a panel at the back of the freezer. It hides the freezer coils and protects them from damage. It's held in place by two screws located at the top left and right corners of the panel.
5th, unscrew the screws holding the panel to the refrigerator.
6th, detach the clip at the top of the panel.
7th, remove the panel. You should see the coils now. The coils will be covered in frost if the defroster heater has failed. If the coils are not covered in frost, there may be another reason for the refrigerator failing to cool.
8th, even if the coils are covered in frost, you should also inspect the defroster heater at the bottom, underneath the coils. The business end of it is a long tube running horizontally between two wires. If it's black like a badly burned out light bulb, then it's failed. If the bulb appears fine, you may have a different reason for your refrigerator and freezer frosting up. We'll assume that the defroster heater has blown out, and proceed.
9th, place a towel at the bottom of the panel space, to soak up any water that melts and runs down. There is a drain under the coils. It collects water that melts during the defrost cycle, but I'd rather mop up the water instead of relying on the drain.
10th, use hot air blowing from the hair dryer to defrost the coils. Just play the air from the hair dryer over the coils, starting at the top, and working down. The frost will quickly melt and the water will be soaked up by the towels. If you want things to go faster, you can throw hot water on the coils to melt them faster, but that produces more water to mop up, and makes a big mess. It's also dangerous to have water lying around if you then decide to use the hair dryer to continue defrosting the coils.
11th. MOST IMPORTANT. Don't use your screwdriver or any other sharp object to pick away at the frost on the coils. If you damage the coils the refrigerant could leak out. I'm told that it's dangerous stuff. Furthermore, I expect that you'd have to buy a new refrigerator if you damaged the coils.
12th, once you've defrosted the coils, locate the defroster heater and bracket assembly again. It's held in place by two screws, and has two insulated wires running into it on either side. Unscrew the screws, disconnect the wires and remove the assembly. Throw it away - there are no useful parts in it.
13th, install the new defroster heater and bracket assembly by connecting the wires to it, mounting it back into its place, and rescrewing the screws.
14th, put the panel back in place, replace the clip, and screw the panel back in place.
15th, turn the ice cube maker back on and replace the ice cube bucket and shelves. Put your food back into the freezer.
16th, use the freezer and refrigerator as normal. If the defroster heater fails again (I'm on my third one in less than six years), you'll notice frost building up on the panel at the back of the freezer before your freezer and refrigerator stops cooling. The frost build up is your signal to defrost the freezer and buy another defroster heater and bracket assembly. I don't know why this part is so weak, and don't know any fix except to keep replacing it.
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Customer:
michele from North Smithfield, RI
Parts Used:
WR55X10025
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Pliers
my refigerator was warm but the freezer was cold and working correcttly
I went to a GE repair center to explain my problem, the service center reccomended that I have a techinician come out o look at it. $75.00 for the visit and what ever labor and materials wuld cost.

I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.
... Read more />After reading some of the ways that people found out what was wrong ...it became a matter of three components, the timer, heater or thermostat.

I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.
302 of 396 people found this instruction helpful.
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