EVL202NXTN00 Whirlpool Freezer - Instructions

I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.

An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.

Replaced the compressor with the new one I purchased from you. Installed new parts and recharged unit. The refrigerator / freezer is working better than new. Thanks for the great deal on the compressor. It was here in 3 days. All the parts fit exactly and had no difficulty in the installation or startup. The directions for the wiring were a great help also. Thanks again.

The first thing I observed was the bolts that attach the motor to the mounting bracket were installed backwards at the factory. This caused the fan to catch on the bolt ends which resulted in the motor burning up. When I installed the new motor, I reversed the bolt direction. There is no way the fan will catch. The freezer works great !

Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.

The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.

I'm very pleased!

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

After observing defrost timer go into (and out of), defrost cycle, I checked continuity of heating element. Since heater coil was intact (79 Ohms of resistance), I figured the defrost thermostat (aka bi-metal therm.), had to be at fault. The new part ($17.00), proved my suspicions correct. As I sought to determine if everything worked, I had to wait for the temp. to drop below the defrost therm. set point before I would see the heater coil get hot.
To avoid the costly failure in future, I bought a Chaney wireless therometer with two remote sensors. Sensors require lithium batteries. $30.00 for both are a cheap insurance system.

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

The defrost circuit is relatively simple. Just three components and interconnecting wiring. Ensure the timer works first, then check the heater element for continuity. Lastly i jumpered around the temp switch to eliminate interconnecting wiring. You can test the switch by cooling it to see if it opens, but some do not open like the one in this particular Whirlpool until they are well below freezing so you’ll need to take that into account in your troubleshooting. Replacing the switch itself is very simple, it’s two wires and it just clips to the heat exchanger in the back of the freezer behind a metal cover.

You should know that the freezer leaked for months before it warmed up. It's not connected to water (no ice maker in it) so I figured it was ice build-up that was melting and causing the leak.

When it warmed up I called a repairman who said the start relay was bad and estimated $500 to replace it. I disputed this because the compressor was running. I asked him if perhaps the freon was low, he said if it was, we should dispose of the freezer.

I even asked him to take $300 to replace that relay, but he refused so I paid him his service fee and sent him on his way. Turns out even $300 would've been a ripoff.

I watched several videos on diagnosing warm freezers. I tried contacting many online parts stores but PartsSelect.com was the only one that answered and had kind and patient techs willing to explain things to me.

I tested the evaporator fan motor, which turned out to be bad. The tech recommended other parts that might also be bad so I put them all into the shopping cart, including the overload (by accident, not sure how I got that one as I did not need the overload for this repair). I did buy the relay in case the unethical repair guy was right about the relay being bad.

The parts arrived quickly and the diagrams/video supplied by this site were very helpful. I used my cell phone to take photos of everything before I started so I could put all wires back in their proper places, etc.

EVAPORATOR FAN MOTOR:

Very easy to replace. I removed the cover panel as instructed, and removed the screws holding the motor with my nutdriver. The blades slid off the motor nice and easy--I did not have to fiddle with the clip at all, just slid them off and on.

There is a third hole in the white bracket that worried me because I didn't see a corresponding third hole in the photo online of that part. But when it arrived, it did have the hole so I was able to plug it in just fine.

I removed the middle wire from the old part's white bracket NOT by pulling on it. I removed it by gently pushing an allen wrench into the hole and then the wire came out easily so it could be plugged into the new part.

Very easy overall to replace the Evaporator Fan Motor.

BI-METAL DEFROST THERMOSTAT:

Another very easy to replace part! Find the old part, unplug it and plug in the new part! Once the panel is removed to access the fan, you can hold up the new part and use it to find the old one. In this model it was easy to find.

DEFROST TIMER:

This was on the back of my freezer, in the cavity that holds the compressor. Once I located it, it was a simple thing to replace it. I used the nut driver to unscrew the screws and unplugged it, plugged in the new one, put the screws back... super simple.

START RELAY:

This was the scariest for me but turned out to be simple. I had to lie on the ground to get close enough and position a bright light so I could see everything clearly. (I'm a 60-year-old gal with poor eyesight and creaky bones!) The cell phone came in handy here to take up close photos of the assembly.

Another difficult step: grabbing the relay to pull it out. It was difficult to gain purchase on it but I finally figured it out.

A third difficulty (only for me) was pulling off the terminals without damaging the wire. I followed the video closely here, grabbed the terminals and not the wire and worked at them to pull them off. They were on very tight, difficult but I did get them off.

Installing the new relay was easy. Attach the terminals (cell phone photo of original part helped me ensure I got the right wires to the right place) and plug it in (cell phone helped again so I could line up the pins before pushing).

The old part rattled just barely -- so perhaps it WAS on its way out, but certainly not worth a $500 repair the repairman wanted! And as you will see, it was not the only thing not working in our this freezer.

The freezer started right up -- compressor humming nicely -- but after 24 hours it was only 60 degrees. At that point I called PartsSelect.com and they spent a long time with me on the phone. We decided it might be leaking freon but they don't have parts or info on adding freon.

I researched "how to add freon to your freezer" and found a great video by Vegas Romaniac on youtube.



Turns out you need to make sure your gauge has a DVA-1 adapter; the link in the youtube video sends you to an old-style gauge, so if you buy that one you'll need to go to Walmart for a DVA-1 adapter ($3).

Another issue: the green gasket in that gauge prevented it from seating properly, it took me a very long time before it finally seated and pierced the can...