EV188NYWQ01 Whirlpool Freezer - Instructions

After observing defrost timer go into (and out of), defrost cycle, I checked continuity of heating element. Since heater coil was intact (79 Ohms of resistance), I figured the defrost thermostat (aka bi-metal therm.), had to be at fault. The new part ($17.00), proved my suspicions correct. As I sought to determine if everything worked, I had to wait for the temp. to drop below the defrost therm. set point before I would see the heater coil get hot.
To avoid the costly failure in future, I bought a Chaney wireless therometer with two remote sensors. Sensors require lithium batteries. $30.00 for both are a cheap insurance system.

From the time I started to finish I worked 3 hours, this included installing the new ice maker, cutting into the cold water line in the basement and installing a t with a 6inch piece of pipe with a compression valve to connect to the small cooper tube, this is worth your time to do it this way, its a lot better connection than the small pierce valves that come with the kit, they will leak over time. I installed the filter in the waterline in the basement for easy access

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

When we discovered that the freezer was not holding temperature we quickly moved everything we could to the freezer compartment of our refrigerator. I then removed the shelves and basket from the freezer.
I used a Philips screwdriver and removed the 4 screws from the panel at the rear of the freezer. I discovered that 1 of the 4 fan blades had broken off and was laying in the bottom of the freezer. I plugged the freezer in and found that the motor was not running. I removed the bracket which holds the fan and motor with a socket wrench.

When I received the fan and new motor I installed both by reversing the process.

The only issue I had to deal with was that the auto-defrost wire had to be carefully removed from the old motor plug and inserted in the new plug. Once that was accomplished everything was simple.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

I added an icemaker kit. Everything I needed was in the kit. The refrigerator was presetup for an icemaker it was just never added. The only problem I had was that the holes for attaching the water solenoid were not pre drilled so I had to drill them myself and use sheet metal screws. The icemaker is working great.

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

The defrost circuit is relatively simple. Just three components and interconnecting wiring. Ensure the timer works first, then check the heater element for continuity. Lastly i jumpered around the temp switch to eliminate interconnecting wiring. You can test the switch by cooling it to see if it opens, but some do not open like the one in this particular Whirlpool until they are well below freezing so you’ll need to take that into account in your troubleshooting. Replacing the switch itself is very simple, it’s two wires and it just clips to the heat exchanger in the back of the freezer behind a metal cover.

unplugged the power and removed the cardboard back Unplugged the part and power from the side of the compressor Plugged the power and new part back in to the side of the compressor and replaced the clamp Plugged in the power cord to the wall outlet and the refrigerator started to hum Job done Thanks

I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!