EV170NXYN00 Whirlpool Freezer - Instructions

I unplugged and defrosted the freezer ( good excuse to give it a good cleaning). I then removed the hex screws from the door under the gasket. Because this attaches the door panel to the freezer, it is helpful to have two people for this task if you have a full size upright freezer. We then removed the panel, cleaned the door, and fitted the new gasket in place. If your gasket has kinks in it, either throw it in the dryer on low for a few minutes or use a hair dryer to smooth them out. We then added a few screws around the center point of each side to hold the gasket in place, secured the corners, and replaced the remainder of the screws. We used a small cordless drill. The gasket will be hard at first, so I duct taped the freezer door shut with a few pieces of tape and turned the unit back on. A repair guy was going to charge me $350.00 for the job, but I did it for free with the cost of the gasket. This site is the least expensive place I found anywhere, and shipped very quickly!

Removed door. Laid door down on a table. Unscrewed all screws around outside of door. Removed plastic cover back of door underneath cover was filled with heavy ice apparently from condensation. Cleaned and dried back of door really well. Replaced with new seal. Reinstalled door. New seal works perfectly.

The defrost timer that I ordered form you did the trick. My fridge was
running all the time and the fridge temp was 55 but the freezer was 10
below. The instructions did not say how to test the old one to compare with
the new on. However in the Readers Digest Home Repair book it did and the
test proved that it was defective. Your article said that with the system I
had, 65% on the time it was the timer. I ordered it and thank you it works
just fine. I do have another problem, maybe you can help. The fridge runs
for 6 minuets and stays off for 10 minuets. The temp in the freezer is 0
and the fridge is 35-40 on the warmest settings, but all is well.
Thank you

I just followed the enclosed instructions

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

Exactly how the part select video described it. Threw a little curve ball figuring out which timer setting to set it to. But the instructions provided with defrost timer walked me right through it. No problem. After installing part nothing happened for about ten minutes, which had me second guessing each and every step. Then, like magic, cold air began blowing. What a relief. Thanks so much, love this site. Refrigerator works like new!

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

After receiving the part, I watched the installation video on the PartSelect website. The step by step demonstration was excellent. I felt confident I could do it myself after watching the video just once, and utilizing the written instructions that came with the part. The installation went smoothly, and my refrigerator is functioning correctly again. Best of all, I did not have to go through the hassle and expense of hiring a repair person!

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

put the new gasket in a tub of hot water. remove door and lay on flat surface, remove old gasket and pull hot gasket from tub, dry and install, the hot water helps remove the wringles from shipping.

I was a Sears repair man for fourty eight years , so I don"t think I should say how easy this was.

Just put the two screw back in that i had removed.

We tried repairing with a new switch which was very easy to install but it didn't fix the problem.

This is an easy fix, simply remove and replace. What I was impressed with is that a how to video was provided along with my part. I wish all manufactures would offer this, the video was easy to understand and you had a good view of the operation. Thanks, a job well done.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.