EV170NXYN00 Whirlpool Freezer - Instructions

Was very simple once I found out where the defrost timer was located. I had a friend walking me through trying to find the location on the phone. Not all models have them in the same place. Once the part was located all I had to do was remove the cover, unplug the old one and plug the new one in just the way the old one came off. The black wire was easy to locate on the old and just matched it up. Put the cover back on and plugged it in. It was no time till I started feeling it cool. Checked both top and bottom with thermomater and it was where it should be within 12 hours. I am happy and using it again. Was almost ready to throw it out. Did not know it was so cheap to fix one. Nothing anyone can't handle. If this woman can do it anyone can.

After receiving the part, I watched the installation video on the PartSelect website. The step by step demonstration was excellent. I felt confident I could do it myself after watching the video just once, and utilizing the written instructions that came with the part. The installation went smoothly, and my refrigerator is functioning correctly again. Best of all, I did not have to go through the hassle and expense of hiring a repair person!

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

With the help of the website I was able to verify that the part I removed (in the area of the clicking sound) was probably the part required for replacement. I ordered it, installed it... IT WORKS (I knew it the moment I plugged in the power cord and heard the compressor kick on). Saved me from buying a new fridge or calling a repairman. I'm a 58 year old woman with no appliance experience. I watched the videos and installed the part without any trouble. Thank you PartSelect for your easy to use website instructions and helpful hints.

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

put the new gasket in a tub of hot water. remove door and lay on flat surface, remove old gasket and pull hot gasket from tub, dry and install, the hot water helps remove the wringles from shipping.

My fridge is a little different from the video model. The Controls in the fridge are located on an "arm" which swings down when the two screws are removed from the sides. It was not necessary to remove a front plate or knobs. However, I found when I got in to it that the old timer was not held by screws, but by plstic posts which had these "speed nuts" on them. This is a little metal plate which fits over the plastic post and bends to lock it in place. When you try to remove it, it acts like a barb, holding the little sucker on. I ended up bending the ends of those little suckers up tight against the post and twisting and pulling with needle-nose pliers. I broke one post like others before me commented, but one stayed intact. The only break at the top, so there ie still post left to hold the new timer. Once it was off, I was able to replace easily. The directions for choosing the right prong were a little confusing, but follow your gut and go with the wire colors. My schematic found in the bottom of the fridge did not look like any of the drawings, but I could match the wire colors. I also asked "Just Ask" for help, to make sure. My gut instinct was right. My fridge is now working again beautifully. If a housewife with no appliance repair knowledge can do it, so can you. I fixed my dryer with PartSelect too!I will never call another repair man until I have checked this site to see if I can do it myself. Bet I have saved $600 so far at least!

One day the ice cream in the freezer seemed mushy, but the ice was still frozen. There was not water in the ice bin. However, the problem resolved itself. This suggested that the defrost timer had become stuck for an extended time, but then continued to run. The fact that the freezer went back to frozen, implies that all the components of the cooling loop (compressor, condenser & fan, evaporator & fan) were fine. It was possible that the problem was caused by a bad defrost (?evaporator?) thermostat but everything I saw on line suggested that the defrost timer is the culprit about 40 - 50% of the time. Anyway, I followed the instructions in the on-line video at this site for replacing the defrost timer and it was easy. It would have only taken 15 minutes, but I spent a while reading the defrost timer instructions and hunting down a schematic for my refrigerator, to determine which pin the loose wire should go on.

I just simply eliminated the ice buildup with hot water and a knife. But I still have the Defrost Timer Kit for future use.

First of all the part was not located in the section of the refrigerator that was shown in the video. I wasted a lot of time taking that section apart only to find that the part wasn't there. After some investigation I finally located the defective part. It was behind a piece of sheet metal that had to be bent out of the way to unscrew the part. If I hadn't bent it out of the way, it would have been a major disassembly to remove the sheet metal. Once removed, the installation of the new part was fairly simple. The only confusing thing about the installation was determinig which of the prongs on the part that the internal wire to the new part was to be attached. There were 3 options given and the instructions were not very clear as to which one I should use. Apparently I guessed correctly because the refrigerator seems to be functioning perfectly since the repair.

I did the repair just as your video showed me. It worked out great.

I unplugged and defrosted the freezer ( good excuse to give it a good cleaning). I then removed the hex screws from the door under the gasket. Because this attaches the door panel to the freezer, it is helpful to have two people for this task if you have a full size upright freezer. We then removed the panel, cleaned the door, and fitted the new gasket in place. If your gasket has kinks in it, either throw it in the dryer on low for a few minutes or use a hair dryer to smooth them out. We then added a few screws around the center point of each side to hold the gasket in place, secured the corners, and replaced the remainder of the screws. We used a small cordless drill. The gasket will be hard at first, so I duct taped the freezer door shut with a few pieces of tape and turned the unit back on. A repair guy was going to charge me $350.00 for the job, but I did it for free with the cost of the gasket. This site is the least expensive place I found anywhere, and shipped very quickly!