1985811040 Roper Freezer - Instructions

Remove the shelves and floor of upper oven and remove the two screws holding the glow plug. Disconnect wiring harness and replace with new one. Screw new glow plug and replace floor and shelves.
The oven worked like a charm again.

Removed the two screws that support the hot surface igniter. Removed the rear cover to disconnect the igniters wire harness and removed old igniter. Installed replacement igniter by fastening with the old screws and sending the plug harness through the ovens rear opening. Connected igniter into the harness and installed the rear cover.

Remove door. Disconnect power supply from the range.Remove shelves.Remove burner and disconnect power from igniter.Remove bad igniter and replace with new one,reconnect igniter to power supply. Replace burner and all parts that were removed.Re- connect appliance to power source. Range is ready to be used.

I unpluged the electrical cord first. Then pulled the stove away from wall. Next removed oven racks, the bottom of the oven. Then removed the deflector plate over the burner. The next step I removed the broil pan. Now the oven area is empty. Nice and easy to remove the igniter with nut driver. Two screws and wire nut that are behind the stove wall. Now I just reversed the procedure. Very easy. The only thing I'm not sure where the insulation block go's. The wires go through back oven wall hole. There was no insulation there before? So I put a small piece just behind the igniter over the wire. Will this catch fire I don't know? If someone knows let me know. Other than that it works.

I removed the two screws that hold the element. This took most of the time because one of the screw broke. Then I unplug the power,took the igniter out and disconnect the wire and reverse the procedure.

I unpluged the oven, removed the oven door by slideing it off the hinges, removed the racks, took the bottom pan out exposing the igniter,while attempting to remove the 2 screws holding the igniter to the bracket, I discovered that they where stripped so I had to use vise grips to remove them. I went to the hardware store bought replacements and installed the igniter. I then removed the protective cover over the wires, stripped them put on the wire nuts provided with the kit put the protective shield back pluged the unit in turned it on, checked it, then put it back together. The stripped screws were the only difficult part.

The oven in my Jenn-Air range started to leak gas whenever I turned it on and a visit from the local gas company indicated the ignitor had probably gone bad. I had assumed the older range wasn't worth repairing but didn't want to spend $800+ for something in otherwise excellent condition. Internet research yielded lots of tutorials on how to make the swap and I decided to see if I could get the old part out before going any further. It wasn't too tricky except one of the two screws holding the ignitor in place had stripped and it was in a location that was very difficult to reach. I used a part of tin snips to cut around it. The new part ordered here came very quickly and exactly matched what I had removed; the wiring harness fit perfectly. It was a snap to put back in and now the oven works perfectly. All for under $50.

Ordered oven Igniter kit PS1573892 which cost $73.00. Received the kit with instructions easy to follow to install. I was surprised how easy it was to repair, with the help of my wife we did the job in about 2 hours, the oven now works great. I really saved a bundle of money doing this myself, a local repair service wanted $114.00 for the same part and $200.00 labor to install and this is the gospel truth. I am 96 years old. RMA Bluefield, WV

Basic instructions provided were accurate. Most difficult part was bending down and reaching across the oven door. A general information note would have been helpful. The circuit that feeds the igniter and the gas valve is a series circuit. So, even though the igniter was glowing cherry red, the igniter was still the cause of the gas not flowing, The voltage drop across the igniter was larger then normal causing the voltage to the gas valve to go down and to be insufficient to allow the gas to flow.

Hardest part was disconnecting the gas line and moving the range out of the counter. Removed oven door for easier access to the igniter from the front. And the clean up. Installing the igniter was relatively easy from the rear of the range. I was not able to install the igniter through the front of the range because the wires were not long enough to pull the igniter forward through the front so it was necessary to pull the range out from the counter and install it from the rear. Then it was just a matter of removing a small dust cover at the rear by removing one screw. Then removing old insulation and disconnecting wires. Remove 2 mounting screws that held the igniter in place. These screws had to be removed from the front. Pushed the old igniter out through the rear of the range. Connected the new igniter wires. Pushed the new igniter through the rear of range and replace the new insulation. Mounted the new igniter with 2 screws. Reassembled everything and it worked ok.

removed cover over burner section ,removed power to burner section ,removed burner assembly, replaced ignitor assembly, wire in to control circuit ,replace burner section in oven,turnon power chech operation ,replace cover.

I simply followed the "general" instructions from the online video "Partselect" provides and perused the instructions included in the kit. The OEM igniter was much longer than the replacement but the new part was spec'd just fine. It was necessary for me to open up the back of the stove in order to retrofit the igniter leads to the original block connector and install the heat resistant padding included in the kit. The additional necessary hardware fit very nicely inside the oven. The stove's oven fired up without any problems and spared me the expense of purchasing a new oven. Thank you very much "Partselect".

I was a little intimadated as I hadn't tried any type of repair like this before. My oven is almost 20 years old so the ignitor was hard wired; there wasn't any plug. I wasn't able to remove the burner assembly so I had to do all my work inside the oven. I had to cut off the plug and hard wire it to the oven. It works great now. All I noticed was that the oven temperature is higher than what I set it at.

Took the old igniter out by taken some screws from the top had to remove the bottom cover underneath then had to cut one of the wire on the igniter put the new one end put the screws back in plug in the oven back iand then check to see that the oven will get hot it did the repair went well.

Ordered the part from this site. It arrived In the time thy said it would. Removed old oven igniter and replaced with new one. Removal of screws and old igniter. Replaced with new igniter and put screws back nd it was working again